[wnta1ss]

Found that the metal cap works alright if you note the orientation, it seems to seal better in a certain orientation, weird but that's what member Stephen12ZL1 had said and that seemed to work out. Mark the cap with a sharpie when you find it's sweet spot.

I used it only for pressure, did not put any fluid in it. Therefore no mess. With the cap orientation sorted out, not a problem to depressurize, top off the fluid, reinstall, pump back up, and move some more fluid.

[Stephen12ZL1]

you can purge quite a bit from our master cylinder reservoir before you need to depressurize and refill. Start with the master cylinder filled as much as will fit. Once you are confident the level isn't dropping too low, this procedure goes very smoothly.

[driven2exceSS]

I don't have anything more to offer the OP that hasn't been said, and it is unfortunate the end result is to return the unit because it's quite useful. I myself have had great luck with mine and use it often!!! I too use it dry, and fill the master cylinder, and have had no drop in pressure by leakage in the 10-20psi range. I even tend to go overboard and re-pressurize to starting pressure with each bleeder (twice per caliper). I rely too much on my brakes to slow/stop my crazy a$$ on track. Have not had the opportunity to try a vacuum bleeder as of yet to compare.

[verdicaysen]

Originally Posted by JGiovando

Update:

I'm sending this pos back! Tried the thicker gasket again which is more egg shape than round and no luck, still leaks and doesn't seat properly. Had my wife help me the old fashioned way and done in 30 minutes.

For what it's worth, I wouldn't waste your money or time. I'm sure it works for some but in my opinion this thing is garbage.💩

Thanks for the responses

So i've never done this before. We made the attempt last night and spent hours trying to chase air out of the system. I ended up taking it to my neighborhood garage - no matter what we did there was way too much sponge happening - and that's no good on a strip or a track.



Could someone in painful detail give me the English version of how to do a brake fluid swap on my SS 1LE? Youtube videos do too many super cuts where they don't show the whole process. The last thread I saw here about it was incredibly vague. (It didn't even mention the fact there are two bleeder valves (inner and outer) on each of our brakes.) So that was the wrong place for me to be reading a how to. I bought the GM manual (275$) - nothings listed in there in any kind of order, so sorting through which procedure was the one I was looking for was like deciphering hieroglyphics. It's a great book - but only if you know exactly what you're doing already.

[rickybobby]

Originally Posted by nicktechla

you just have to make sure it stays topped up. I think some people had the hose pop off and spray fluid all over. So they just started using it as pressure. Not from personal experience, but when I was doing some research before ordering a power bleeder

This is what I do ever since I had a hose burst and send brake fluid in my eye. I just keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and refill it after I hit each caliper. It takes more time to bleed but saves time cleaning up the hoses when you are done.

[nicktechla]

Originally Posted by rickybobby

This is what I do ever since I had a hose burst and send brake fluid in my eye. I just keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and refill it after I hit each caliper. It takes more time to bleed but saves time cleaning up the hoses when you are done.

ouch! i was worried about the paint, but the eye sounds worse

[JGiovando]

Originally Posted by verdicaysen

So i've never done this before. We made the attempt last night and spent hours trying to chase air out of the system. I ended up taking it to my neighborhood garage - no matter what we did there was way too much sponge happening - and that's no good on a strip or a track.



Could someone in painful detail give me the English version of how to do a brake fluid swap on my SS 1LE? Youtube videos do too many super cuts where they don't show the whole process. The last thread I saw here about it was incredibly vague. (It didn't even mention the fact there are two bleeder valves (inner and outer) on each of our brakes.) So that was the wrong place for me to be reading a how to. I bought the GM manual (275$) - nothings listed in there in any kind of order, so sorting through which procedure was the one I was looking for was like deciphering hieroglyphics. It's a great book - but only if you know exactly what you're doing already.

I found a helpful thread on here. I'll try to locate and post for you verdicaysen.

[JGiovando]

Check out the post by Destroyer 1LE on page 6 of the brake section. He has a pretty good write up verdicaysen. Not sure about the clutch part as I've never done that and didn't do it when doing my Camaro either. Did it the old fashioned way with a helper applying brake pressure.

[verdicaysen]

Originally Posted by JGiovando

Check out the post by Destroyer 1LE on page 6 of the brake section. He has a pretty good write up verdicaysen. Not sure about the clutch part as I've never done that and didn't do it when doing my Camaro either. Did it the old fashioned way with a helper applying brake pressure.

Thank you! I guess I didn't dig enough, but I do appreciate the kindness.

[Hack]

I've used vacuum bleeders in the past, and for me the Motul has always worked a lot better. I always fill it with brake fluid and I've been really happy with how quickly I can bleed a lot of fluid through and get clean fluid throughout the system. I have spilled before, but I just wipe it up - I haven't really had any big issues.

I haven't used it on the Camaro yet.

Thanks to everyone for the helpful posts and tips.