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Old 12-13-2022, 10:19 AM   #43
gtstorey

 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC
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Again, I ask how anyone is determining that theses or any bolt is TTY. Most people assume that torque plus angle is TTY and it's not always true. About the only way to confirm that they have reached yield is to very accurately measure the length before and after installation and see if the bolt is longer once the load is removed.

The reason that torque spec is often given as torque plus angle is that it eliminates friction during the final portion of the tighten sequence.
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Old 12-13-2022, 10:25 AM   #44
redcoats1976


 
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no,i appreciate all the replies i got.have been calling around,found coated premium rotors at NAPA for 79 bucks,and they have the bolt kits for 9.99 (x2) which is 4 bolts per side,so i will be grabbing them today.not sure which pads yet but they will be ceramic.i will probably do the job next week.once again,i do appreciate the answers i received.
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Old 12-13-2022, 11:48 AM   #45
Silveradoss573

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0stones0 View Post
Picked up the bolts today and confirmed through two gm mechanics that there are, in fact, TTY bolts. Asked if they ever reuse them… got the side glance look and a smile.
Btw, no Loctite on the threads.
My thinking is the same as Not A 45, once stretched, don’t do the to 90 degrees thing.
For what’s it’s worth, I’m replacing mine because, as I stated above, I went to 90 on them and I feel that’s too much stretch, for used bolts.

Hope this info didn’t go to far off from your topic, redcoats1976.
You know when I changed my pads and rotors out a few years ago to try out the power stops (not impressed btw), I talked to a few dealerships over these bolts. Not a single one told me that they replace these stye which btw happen to be used on other gm vehicles. And on top of that, not one parts guy showed any record of the caliper bolts for the Camaro ever being ordered.

This subject seems to come up every few months or so on here so here's how I look at it. If the bolts are in good condition and the owner feels good about reusing them then I say go for it. If you are just learning how to work on your brakes and/or are in general uncertain then just replace them. I torqued mine back to spec and that took just about everything I had to get that extra 90 degree's. All 4 had factory paint marks both on the bolts and spindle assemblies. The paint marks all lined up when I was done. I used blue lock-tite if I recall correctly and so far no issues.
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Old 12-13-2022, 05:00 PM   #46
Rock-It Man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderbuddy View Post
Again You are talking 2 Different Different Brakes

The Sliding Calipers do not require to replace the Sliding Pins

If for some unknown you remove the Bracket that the SLIDING CALIPERS Bolt to then Yes you would replace the Bolts
The only reason to remove the Caliper Brackets would be to turn the Rotors.
Most V6 owners are going to just replace just the brakes
Do you have the shop manual?

I do.
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Old 12-13-2022, 06:56 PM   #47
redcoats1976


 
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picked up new aftermarket bolt kits and ceramic pads...got everything i need to do the job.havent added it up but around $250 for everything.
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Old 12-14-2022, 12:05 AM   #48
HellerW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redcoats1976 View Post
picked up new aftermarket bolt kits and ceramic pads...got everything i need to do the job.havent added it up but around $250 for everything.
What brand ceramic pads dod you get? and can you update on the difficulty of replacing the caliper bolts when you're done? People have said getting that extra 90 degrees is tough.
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Old 12-14-2022, 02:28 AM   #49
redcoats1976


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellerW View Post
What brand ceramic pads dod you get? and can you update on the difficulty of replacing the caliper bolts when you're done? People have said getting that extra 90 degrees is tough.
duralast gold from autozone.it will be a couple of weeks before i do the job but i will update you.im applying blue loctite and im not going to hang off the end of the wrench to get that 1/4 turn if i think im stretching the crap out of the bolts,just have to wait and see.those are some tiny ass bolts that hold the bracket.my last car was a little honda.the bolts were huge and never got replaced,and i torqued the fudge out of them.
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Old 12-14-2022, 07:06 AM   #50
bsn
 
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When you torque a bolt to spec then turn an additional 90 degrees you are stretching the bolt, engineers have determined the desired clamping load so the bolt wont loosen over time. If you take the same bolt off and do the same sequence, the force needed to get the additional 90 degrees is much higher due to the fact the bolt can't stretch any more, there is where you have a chance of a bolt failing. If your re-using the bolts torque to spec then just a little bit more don't go the full 90 degrees. Most mechanics go by feel not torque. Caliper to frame bolts have relatively little stress on them their job is to hold the caliper in place, under braking the caliper rides the frame and transfers force to it. Frame to knuckle bolts have much more stress as all the braking force transfers though them-its a good idea to replace them every time for as little as they cost.
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