[BanOne]

So I ran an event a Daytona back in June on the short course and all was good but I did notice that the short course was much harder on breaks. After I got back and switched to the street tires and took some cruises I noticed what I thought felt like warped rotors. The car only has 5500 miles on it with about 6 track days I can't imagine the rotors would already be warped on a car designed for the track. A friend suggested a brake rotor hone and that there may just be build up after the hard day at Sebring. I am getting ready for a night at Daytona next week and would like to not have brake issues there. Has anyone else used a brake rotor hone and gotten rid of a warped rotor feeling?

Thanks in advance for the info.

Doug

[VaporPressure]

Based on some other threads I purchased this one:
Brush Research Flex-hone for rotors

It seemed to do the trick for my next track weekend. The brakes were fine again, but at a track that wasn't so hard on the brakes. When I went back to the track that I had the original issue at, the issue cropped up again but I think it's because new pad material was deposited.

[cdb95z28]

I've used and suggested the above brake hone with success. Rotors do not warp, it is uneven pad transfer. The idea of the rotor hone is to remove the uneven layer and to get to a fresh surface to re-bed. But you also have to figure out why you are getting the uneven transfer.


You'll have to remove the rotors to do both sides. I've used a cordless drill and pretty much ignored the speed limit printed on the hone. Make sure the rotor hat, bearing hub and wheel mounting surfaces are all spotless with no rust/corrosion. Otherwise any dirt will cause any of the components to possibly not mate up perfectly flat which can cause vibration.

Depending on the pad that is used, with enough street driving, race pads will stay in abrasive friction mode and can wipe off that uneven transfer layer.

[BanOne]

Thanks for the responses I will order one and try and clean then up. I am usinf stock pads and rotors.

[5.M0NSTER]

Use a proper high temp pad for track days to prevent this. This happens when pads get too hot.

[BanOne]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Use a proper high temp pad for track days to prevent this. This happens when pads get too hot.

I thought the stock pads were good, have not heard alot of people complain about them, but maybe.

[cdb95z28]

There are many variables that are going to determine whether a specific pad works good for one driver and doesn't for another.

First question always is the cooling correct/enough? What version of a Gen6 are you driving?

If you are an advanced driver, I would think that your braking skills are to the point where you know if you are using the brakes too much and/or over slowing. Long drawn out braking is actually worse as far as heat control.

Something as simple as not getting the brakes cooled down after a session and then engaging the parking brake or sitting with your foot on the brake pedal while everything is super toasty can cause uneven pad transfer in just one spot. The latter can happen after hard braking on the street too.


Are you at least running a high quality DOT4 fluid?

[5.M0NSTER]

Factory pads are usable, and tolerate track use a lot better than Mustang pads for example, but don’t excel at the task. They can’t handle the higher temps, and friction level is overall lower.

When I say high temp pads I’m talking about the likes of DTC 60/70, PFC08/11, Carbotech XP12/16. Near 2000F fade point, and resist leaving uneven deposits way more so then OE pads. All while Providing more friction so you can brake later.

Improper braking technique hurts pad/rotor life and performance regardless of setup, but some other pads will tolerate it a lot more.

[Keko]

I've seen a few people mention that the LT1 trim does not have the ducts properly set up to cool the front brakes so they become way too hot quickly. The ducts are there, but blocked off somehow, I guess because of the different front end?

[ponyboy96]

Had the same issue with my car recently. I noticed a section of the rotors was a little higher that the rest and you could see the pad impression. Though I think mine was rust from washing the car and it sitting. Some 800 grit sandpaper knocked it right off. No issues since.

[BanOne]

Originally Posted by ponyboy96

Had the same issue with my car recently. I noticed a section of the rotors was a little higher that the rest and you could see the pad impression. Though I think mine was rust from washing the car and it sitting. Some 800 grit sandpaper knocked it right off. No issues since.

This is what I was thinking mine was from, when I get back from the track I usually wash right away, ( I am a minimum 2 hours away from a track so everything is cool) I noticed the rotors flash rust after washing and then during a quick around the the block the fade appeared. I ordered the rotor hone and will be doing that tomorrow

[BanOne]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

There are many variables that are going to determine whether a specific pad works good for one driver and doesn't for another.

First question always is the cooling correct/enough? What version of a Gen6 are you driving?

If you are an advanced driver, I would think that your braking skills are to the point where you know if you are using the brakes too much and/or over slowing. Long drawn out braking is actually worse as far as heat control.

Something as simple as not getting the brakes cooled down after a session and then engaging the parking brake or sitting with your foot on the brake pedal while everything is super toasty can cause uneven pad transfer in just one spot. The latter can happen after hard braking on the street too.






Are you at least running a high quality DOT4 fluid?

I am running a 2019 ZL1 1LE. Yes I changed from the factory fluid to Brembo HTC. I am not past putting it on my skill level as a driver, I am an intermediate driver but I probably brake a littler earlier that I should. I ran the short course at Sebring with SCCA in June and there were alot of fast cars. I am still trying to get enough confidence to late brake the car, tires were worn out so I think that contributed to me not having confidence in the grip as well.

Thanks for the response

[BanOne]

Holy Crap What does GM use for thread lock!!! Took some serious effort to get the bolts for the calipers out. Holes were full of some sort of yellow powder/gunk. Was thinking of using blue loctite to put them back but do I need Red or something else.

Thanks

[VaporPressure]

I used blue threadlocker. Should be the better option for bolts you plan to unscrew at some point.