Slow starting cars

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by camguynj

I really don’t know what battery Z/28 come with. They’re a different bread. I was referring to all other models

No excuses. All I need to do is read the part #, instead of looking up a replacement.
You are correct sir.
Thanks

[pzero]

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

I did not, with a full charge on the battery the car will stop turning over for what seemed 1 sec, and the reset your windows will appear on the DIC, after the new ground wire was added the car keeps turning over when the key is tuned, it does not slow down or seem to hesitate, and no more resting the windows.

Here is the video its on our YouTube channel mods if its not ok to post then delete.

Thanks for the video. That should really help. Ordered 2/0 neg ground cable. When you get a chance Gen5diy could you post some pics of under body ground install? That would help a lot as well. I'm thinking about doing that as well. Thanks.

[pzero]

Just update. Install 2/0 Guage ground wire per video.
Looks like it’s working good so far. Will have to see if this
slow crank holds up during the hot summer. Noticed
my volt meter is reading steady 14v. See pics. Thanks for
advise.

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by pzero

Just update. Install 2/0 Guage ground wire per video.
Looks like it’s working good so far. Will have to see if this
slow crank holds up during the hot summer. Noticed
my volt meter is reading steady 14v. See pics. Thanks for
advise.

Nice job. Since your factory negative battery cable is bad and you’ve installed a nice new one. I’ll buy your junk old factory cable from you if you want.

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by camguynj

I really don’t know what battery Z/28 come with. They’re a different bread. I was referring to all other models

I just ran across this parts list for all the battery part numbers for 2014 camaros.
AGM stands for absorbed glass mat which I’m sure is common knowledge. I had sworn my 14’ 1LS had the AGM battery but the car is long gone so cannot reference it. The GM part # included AGM and in the same battery classes as flooded.

[pzero]

No if you look closely I still have the factory
negative cable. I think the factory cable
is little skimpy and not enough contact
to the body is making the car hard to restart
and charge. Before the added cable I was getting
13.4 v on the reading and now after extra cable
it’s at steady 14 v.

[pzero]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-0-AWG-00-....c100935.m2460

eBay link if any of you are interested (Made in USA)
My set up was 2/0 guage x 21 inches long with 5/16 holes both end (3/8 will work also). I also think 1/0 guage will work as well. 2/0 guage might be an over kill.

On the connections to the nuts I used some electric grease to keep it clean and corrosion free. Autozone sells small single packs.

Time will tell if this is good to go this summer. If I still have hard time cranking this summer, I’m going to add another ground from body to the motor.

Note: my battery is AGM and it started without any hesitation. Hope this solved the problem. Good luck.

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by pzero

No if you look closely I still have the factory
negative cable. I think the factory cable
is little skimpy and not enough contact
to the body is making the car hard to restart
and charge. Before the added cable I was getting
13.4 v on the reading and now after extra cable
it’s at steady 14 v.

Oh, I see the cable is still installed under the new cable so wouldn’t it make better contact at the body if it wasn’t on top of the original cable?

What gauge is the factory cable? and what is the required gauge size needed for the amperage rating of the starter system?

Please keep us updated and hope it continues to work great. I thought our cars charging system was not as simple as the old school charging systems but if the cable improves the system, that’s fantastic.

Did you happen to take a resistance reading across the trunk cable contact point before and after you added the cable?
Thanks

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Here is the gauge chart for anyone wanting to put a new cable or replace the old one.

[olblue75]

Do you think you could have gone to a 18” vs 21” cable?

[pzero]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Do you think you could have gone to a 18” vs 21” cable?

18" will work more of a straight line from neg post to body. As you can see with 21" I have some slack.

[FLOW TIE]

PZero,
I did the same this morning.
Used 1/0 20inches long. Should have took a pic.
I put a big washer on the battery side over it, the grounding point already had a nut/washer combo.
I also lubed both ends with NOALAX. My electrician told me about this stuff last week.
Supposed to be good when using copper connector with another type of metal.
Probably overkill, but I bought a 4oz tube to do more projects.

NOALAX
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-NO...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

I will tell you this.
My battery is the original from build date of 10/2014. If it sits for a week with no maintainer, it struggles to start. Had to cross fingers a couple times.
Today, no problem. It was still a little slow, but not like it's been. I'm going to do the bell housing to body next time the car has an oil change and it's up in the air.

Here's video from Gen5 DIY. Part# and video of were it's installed.

https://www.gen5diy.com/products/10-...ground-harness

Cheers!

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

we did the 2nd car last week made a big differences for our car, but i will tell you GM did not make this the way i think it need to be made, i will keep working on this, have a new idea, and it uses a FORD part,(say it is not so), in the mean time here is a link to the gray Z/28 start up.

[FLOW TIE]

Per that video, I would say that’s exactly the difference the new battery ground wire made on my Z.