[TrackClub]

Wondering is anyone has run into this issue and/or any suggestions as to what could be causing my problem:

F camber at 2.8 zero issues! Albeit i may have it dialed back a wee bit.

RR 1.6 and 0.05 toe in zero issue.
LR had a BIG ISSUE. If they dial 1.6 camber then they cant bring the toe back in! At that camber the best toe setting ends up at MINUS (OUT!!!) 0.3 which obviously is a huge problem. To get a 0.05 toe in the best camber they could get was 1.1...

Been to 2 shops now. Last dealer suggested it may have to require part swaps done under warranty.
My mechanic says it could be a cradle which is out of position, but he hasnt looked at it yet.

Feedback? Comments? Similar experiences?

Thank you!

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Wondering is anyone has run into this issue and/or any suggestions as to what could be causing my problem:

F camber at 2.8 zero issues! Albeit i may have it dialed back a wee bit.

RR 1.6 and 0.05 toe in zero issue.
LR had a BIG ISSUE. If they dial 1.6 camber then they cant bring the toe back in! At that camber the best toe setting ends up at MINUS (OUT!!!) 0.3 which obviously is a huge problem. To get a 0.05 toe in the best camber they could get was 1.1...

Been to 2 shops now. Last dealer suggested it may have to require part swaps done under warranty.
My mechanic says it could be a cradle which is out of position, but he hasnt looked at it yet.

Feedback? Comments? Similar experiences?

Thank you!

My 2017 SS also sucked for rear camber when I had a track alignment done by a race mechanic. Car had SC3 tires on MRR 1LE-look wheels. RR ended up as -1.12º camber with .06º of toe-in, and LR got -1.11º of camber with .07º of toe-in. I actually watched the race mechanic doing the alignment, so I know that he turned the cam correctly to achieve negative camber in the rear, mentioning this to pre-emptively head off the usual internet knee-jerk reactions of 'mechanic did not know what he was doing'.

My car was worse than yours btw, because on the front end, all we got was -2.10º and -2.06º of camber. Production variance seemed to have bitten us in the butt with this car.

[TRZ06]

Something is wrong all around.

I haven't heard of anyone being able to get -2.8 out of the front on the SS 1LE without camber plates. I could only manage -2.4 on one side and -2.5 on the other and then it was tough to keep the toe within spec.

In the rear, there should be PLENTY of adjustment to go much more negative camber and still keep the toe in spec.

[TrackClub]

Thanks guys! Yep something is odd.
I did get 2.6F on my 17 with no issues btw.
On my 2020 they got 2.9 and 2.8 with no issues!

What i dont get is that it is just the RL that has an issue.
Clearly i cannot even consider tracking her like this.
Not even being able to achieve what GM states as the track spec in the manual...
If this doesn't end on a positive note, the car will be going back to GM...

Apreciate any more comments/ideas as to a possible cause. Thanks!

[AustinTXracer]

What is everyone doing for the rear bolts? The camber and toe bolts are both torque to yield and should only be used once. Are you guys just retorquing them or replacing them each time? What's the torque level you are using if reusing the bolts?

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by AustinTXracer

What is everyone doing for the rear bolts? The camber and toe bolts are both torque to yield and should only be used once. Are you guys just retorquing them or replacing them each time? What's the torque level you are using if reusing the bolts?

I am reusing the bolts. I do not track, but I have not had an issue at all with the rear holding its alignment settings.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Thanks guys! Yep something is odd.
I did get 2.6F on my 17 with no issues btw.
On my 2020 they got 2.9 and 2.8 with no issues!

What i dont get is that it is just the RL that has an issue.
Clearly i cannot even consider tracking her like this.
Not even being able to achieve what GM states as the track spec in the manual...
If this doesn't end on a positive note, the car will be going back to GM...

Apreciate any more comments/ideas as to a possible cause. Thanks!

On my 2020 my front camber is -2.7 and -2.6, so you got a bit more than I could. But in back I have -2.0 and -1.9 with 1/32" toe in each side. Your RR is tolerable, but only just. Your LR is way off for some reason. I don't think it's the cradle bushings, because the entire suspension attaches to the cradle itself. Anything shifting of the cradle that could increase LR camber would have to take it away from the RR, and your RR doesn't have any to give up. It's almost as if the wrong toe link is on there, or the link is bent. I haven't looked closely at the bushings they use in the toe link, but maybe one of them is jacked up somehow?

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Msquared

On my 2020 my front camber is -2.7 and -2.6, so you got a bit more than I could. But in back I have -2.0 and -1.9 with 1/32" toe in each side. Your RR is tolerable, but only just. Your LR is way off for some reason. I don't think it's the cradle bushings, because the entire suspension attaches to the cradle itself. Anything shifting of the cradle that could increase LR camber would have to take it away from the RR, and your RR doesn't have any to give up. It's almost as if the wrong toe link is on there, or the link is bent. I haven't looked closely at the bushings they use in the toe link, but maybe one of them is jacked up somehow?

Thanks for your feedback! I don't know if RR is maxed out at 1.6 as this is what i asked for based on specs i ran on my 17 (2.6F and 1.6R). The tech said he got it very easily there.

I think they will try replacing the toe link and maybe the control arm? Exoecting a call this am.

Interestingly, i have found a post here from 2 yrs ago with a poster indicating they could only get 0.9 camber on LR, which looks exactly like my issue.

Unfortunately it went stale with no conclusions.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Thanks for your feedback! I don't know if RR is maxed out at 1.6 as this is what i asked for based on specs i ran on my 17 (2.6F and 1.6R). The tech said he got it very easily there.

I think they will try replacing the toe link and maybe the control arm? Exoecting a call this am.

Interestingly, i have found a post here from 2 yrs ago with a poster indicating they could only get 0.9 camber on LR, which looks exactly like my issue.

It's possible that something has shifted on the subframe between the relative positions of the lateral control links and the toe links. This would still not be an issue of the subframe cradle bushings, since all the links attach to the subframe (none to the unibody). But if there were a manufacturing defect for a small group of subframes that shifted where the toe link tabs mount, that could do it. The only way to check this is to find a way to measure the distances from each toe link mount on the subframe to the mounts for the upper and lower lateral links on the subframe. Those distances must be identical for the left and right sides of the car. If they aren't, then one or more of the tabs got welded in the wrong place. It's not unheard of that the welding jig shifted or one of the welding bots got miscalibrated. AFAIK, the only good way to fix this would be to replace the subframe/cradle.

[apexit53]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

Something is wrong all around.

I haven't heard of anyone being able to get -2.8 out of the front on the SS 1LE without camber plates. I could only manage -2.4 on one side and -2.5 on the other and then it was tough to keep the toe within spec.

In the rear, there should be PLENTY of adjustment to go much more negative camber and still keep the toe in spec.

mine is at 2.8.... bone stock.

I had a similar issue on my old 2017... look at the rear subframe! Make sure the tabs that the bolts slide up to arent bent! Mine were and i could not get the numbers dialed in.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by apexit53

mine is at 2.8.... bone stock.

I had a similar issue on my old 2017... look at the rear subframe! Make sure the tabs that the bolts slide up to arent bent! Mine were and i could not get the numbers dialed in.

Thanks! Did you get it fixed on your 17? Can it be fixed?

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Msquared

It's possible that something has shifted on the subframe between the relative positions of the lateral control links and the toe links. This would still not be an issue of the subframe cradle bushings, since all the links attach to the subframe (none to the unibody). But if there were a manufacturing defect for a small group of subframes that shifted where the toe link tabs mount, that could do it. The only way to check this is to find a way to measure the distances from each toe link mount on the subframe to the mounts for the upper and lower lateral links on the subframe. Those distances must be identical for the left and right sides of the car. If they aren't, then one or more of the tabs got welded in the wrong place. It's not unheard of that the welding jig shifted or one of the welding bots got miscalibrated. AFAIK, the only good way to fix this would be to replace the subframe/cradle.

Thanks! Great tip to measure everything. My biggest worry is things were not welded properly. If so GM will own this car as i suspect a fix would be difficult?
Not mech inclined here, so simply dont know what this would entail...Cheers!

[Stephen12ZL1]

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[apexit53]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Thanks! Did you get it fixed on your 17? Can it be fixed?

we did our best to bend them back and it worked but it was never the same. Tried to get a dealer to warranty the sub frame but wouldn't.