10-30-2016, 03:51 PM | #43 |
Drives: Jeep Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Arizona
Posts: 79
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Yes I do, if it shorts, its going to take the carpet, his box and possibly seat with it. Rule of thumb for both ground and power to fuse, shortest run possible. I included the video for naysayers, that don't believe it will happen to "Them".
Looking at the total install, its like most DIY installs, most real installers wouldn't wire it that way, mount the amp to the box, and wouldn't shoot the box into the seats. To each their own, I know my old boss would have had a cow lol. Last edited by VCSRT; 10-30-2016 at 04:08 PM. |
10-31-2016, 08:37 AM | #44 | |
Darth Martel
Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bizzaroland
Posts: 1,496
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If it shorts, the fuse will blow... Unless somehow, magically, the +12V wire jumps out of it's casing and shorts to the trunk metal. I suppose there is a .01% chance of this happening so, yeah, it COULD happen theoretically. The fuse is roughly 2ft from the battery. It'll be fine. "Pro" installers work under the assumption that sub installs are for car shows or competition or something along those lines. I've seen some really sweet looking installs with custom fabricated enclosures and lighting and all sorts of whiz-bang, visually cool add-ons. People will spend megabucks on an install and get a 1.21 Gigawatt amp that'll shake apart their car. This is not one of those builds. I wanted added bass to my system. It's nothing fancy. Mounting the amp to the box is for easy access. The fuse is mounted to the box for the same reason. +12V and ground wiring from a battery is not rocket science. I've worked for GM and Alison Transmissions installing multiple electrical systems on hybrid busses and vehicles, including battery wiring. You are correct in that you want to fuse the +12V lead as close as possible but you do need to take accessibility into consideration. Putting a fuse on the negative lead as well as the positive lead is extraneous. It's a single voltage loop. Overcurrent will blow the fuse. It's not like a 2nd fuse will catch the overcurrent the first fuse missed. Sometimes, people overthink things.
Anyhow, thanks for your input Quote:
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2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.
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11-01-2016, 12:14 AM | #45 | |
Drives: Jeep Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Arizona
Posts: 79
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Quote:
When you don't build custom amp racks, or show cars, you still aim for longevity and quality. Most of the time, you can tuck the amp on dowels under a seat, as you can see from this picture, most amps have vents on the bottom to help them breathe, and if you read manuals they don't want you surface mounting the amplifier. If you're out in hotter climate, or even if you've run your amps for long drives often you can feel its hot as all can be, every bit of ventilation helps. Cheers my friend. Last edited by VCSRT; 11-01-2016 at 12:15 AM. Reason: formatting |
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11-01-2016, 09:05 AM | #46 | |
Drives: 2017 2SS, 50th pkg, M6, MRC, NPP Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Ocean City, NJ
Posts: 3,178
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11-01-2016, 11:27 AM | #47 | |
Darth Martel
Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bizzaroland
Posts: 1,496
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I took your rule of thumb statement to mean both power and ground were fused. Perhaps I read that wrong. Your follow up post is correct though, you don't fuse the ground.
As for grounding the amp to the chassis, that's typically for convenience since the battery is typically in the front of the vehicle and you want the shortest run possible. The battery is just a few feet from the amp in this case, therefore; there is a direct run from the amp to the battery which is ideal. Grounding to the chassis opens up potential noise issues. Now, I want you to think about the purpose of grounding for a second. To complete the circuit, right? The amp is powered by the battery. What opens up more opportunity for noise? Grounding through the chassis or grounding to the battery? Given, our cars are brand new and grounding to the chassis should be mostly the same as grounding to the battery but, there's always room for some type of noise or interference with a chassis ground because it's not the true grounding source. The battery is. The thought that grounding to the battery is potentially noisy is absolute nonsense and displays a complete lack of understanding of how electrical paths work. I say that running power and ground isn't rocket science because it isn't. I realize people introduce ground loops and buzzing into their systems all the time but, they aren't getting that from powering straight from the battery. It's when they tie off to what they think is a solid grounding point only to find out later that it isn't. Chassis grounding is for convenience or practicality. It's not because it's better. Quote:
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2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.
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11-02-2016, 08:01 AM | #48 |
Drives: 2017 Black on Black 1SS Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 82
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Dark Martel, Is completely right. good job on that reply.
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11-03-2016, 01:18 AM | #49 | ||
Drives: Jeep Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Arizona
Posts: 79
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02-17-2017, 01:33 PM | #50 | |
Drives: 94 z28 and 2017 1ss Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: missouri
Posts: 19
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09-27-2017, 03:47 PM | #51 |
Drives: 2018 HBM SS 1LE Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 158
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10-14-2017, 09:31 AM | #52 |
Darth Martel
Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bizzaroland
Posts: 1,496
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sorry about that... I'll work on this this weekend
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2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.
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10-14-2017, 10:21 AM | #53 |
Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: 46804
Posts: 6,797
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FYI, you don't need 3rd party hosting anymore to share pics...just upload them directly under the advanced tab.
Nice write up btw! Very helpful.
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2016 NFG 1SS A8
Options-2SS Leather/NPP Perf. mods-Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel/103mm TB/Rotofab Big Gulp/Cat Deletes/Corsa NPP Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA |
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