[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

So we are looking at...
Lpe di pump...1600
Lt4 injectors ...500
JMS bap ...400
Zl1 in tank...200

About 2700 bucks?

Yep, I did it for a little less shopping around and waiting for deals. You might save a couple hundred. Plus I sold my stock injectors for 150.00. I think I am around 22-2300.00.

At your current weight, in the fall with killer DA, I think you can hit 9's with 650whp.

LT4 unit is the lightest too...might try and find one that is ported and put a NX lid on it with a LT5 TB.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

So we are looking at...
Lpe di pump...1600
Lt4 injectors ...500
JMS bap ...400
Zl1 in tank...200

About 2700 bucks?

Yep, do data logs and is under 6.0 ms and above 2500 PSI high, above 55 PSI low... you could do E25, then E45 to E60 where you will not get any more benefits at your boost level. A

and yeah anything to cut down pumping losses like TB, ported snout, CAI... is going to work... Since this is a size deal I'd sell the stock ported TB and get a non-ported 95mm. This is an assumption but it seems this is really a diameter issue on the snout inlet. Sell MSD.

[ULTRAZLS1]

I’ve got a ported 95 on the car already

That nx lid is definitely on my list if I get lt4. Looks great as I’m not a huge fan of the stock lt4 lid. It’s supposed to help temps and increase power a bit too

From what I gather the fasterprom thermal reduction plates combined with an expansion tank solves heat soak completely for the lowest cost. Combined with E85 it should never pull any power

I can also use my old stock air intake tube with my rotofab correct? Just have to cut it or something?

Yeah I got a ported and shaved painted mamo msd. I can get a good chunk for that selling it

I’d be shocked if I couldn’t drop 7 tenths with a 160 rwhp gain. 9s should be on lock I would think.

What psi is the lt4 at stock anyway? What pulley should I be going with for my goal ?

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

I’ve got a ported 95 on the car already

That nx lid is definitely on my list if I get lt4. Looks great as I’m not a huge fan of the stock lt4 lid. It’s supposed to help temps and increase power a bit too

From what I gather the fasterprom thermal reduction plates combined with an expansion tank solves heat soak completely for the lowest cost. Combined with E85 it should never pull any power

I can also use my old stock air intake tube with my rotofab correct? Just have to cut it or something?

Yeah I got a ported and shaved painted mamo msd. I can get a good chunk for that selling it

I’d be shocked if I couldn’t drop 7 tenths with a 160 rwhp gain. 9s should be on lock I would think.

What psi is the lt4 at stock anyway? What pulley should I be going with for my goal ?

Yeah my brother has his LT4 ported by Kong with the NX lid, exchanger, and thermal reduction plates. It has made a difference.

Stock LT4 pulley is around 9 psi.

Your Roto Fab works without cutting just need to get the rubber elbow from a Maggie or Whipple kit.

[ULTRAZLS1]

So I should just stay on a stock pulley I’m guessibg ?

[KingLT1]

I would to start.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

I’d be shocked if I couldn’t drop 7 tenths with a 160 rwhp gain. 9s should be on lock I would think.

Keep in mind that the extra weight of the supercharger WILL slow the car down. Meaning, you are going to need more hp than you might think, you cannot just base it off of the normally-aspirated performance that you had. I've run my car on the dragstrip, both with a supercharger and with bolt-ons, and the weight matters for sure.

[Umbriel]

The amount of power you gain with a supercharger greatly outweighs the added weight, superchargers don't weight 1000 pounds.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Umbriel

The amount of power you gain with a supercharger greatly outweighs the added weight, superchargers don't weight 1000 pounds.

I agree... The LT4 supercharger isn't that heavy at all. The added weight "might" cost a tenth but I agree the power gain will greatly overcome that difference. Aside from that Ultra knows how to get his car down the track...the car is well sorted. Mid 10's @ 127 bolt-on tells me that he shouldn't have much trouble at all clicking off a 9 second pass this fall if he decides to go FI.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

Talked to a few people just wanting to hear all options

Been debating on setup etc and always changing my mind. Anyway it will likely be a pd of some kind. Maybe a cheap used lt4 setup with porting and pulley could probably hit 650 on E85 with my headers cai and ported 93 Tb. Just looking for an honest reliable 650 rwhp which is as far as the stock pistons like anyways. I think that will be plenty with my raceweight and be enough to get me into the 9s. Cheapest route to 9s is the overall goal I suppose aside from nitrous

So anyway. Cheapest way to fuel 650 rwhp on E85? I’m on stock cam lobe

Thanks guys

Any of the superchargers are the market are capable of 650 RWHP the issue will always be fuel supply

You must at least install the LT4 Low, High, and injectors on the stock cam for fuel supply up to 675 RWHP on E50.

The cam lobe will stretch LT4 fuel system number to 750 RWHP on E-60.

Ted.

[DapperDan]

If I was dead set on running E85 I would follow KingLT1s pattern, but you guys know there is nothing cheap for these cars..lol. I wonder why y'all are so against using Meth? This is my first blower car so I don't know much about this stuff , but I have had Meth about 10 months and so far so good. I know things can screw up , but can't that happen with a BAP or AUX system or even a factory pump could crap out. I go out to get in my car,I glance around for any leaks or anything dumb ,I'd do that even if it was still stock , start it up glance at the dial make sure its where its suspose to be hit the little test button the light comes on, the idle stumbles alittle and I know its working. I haven't even used a can yet, 3 passes at the dragstrip uses about a pint. Didnt mean to go down another road just don't understand why Meth is so bad, I wanna do both sooner or later. Good luck on your quest for 9s I'm on the same journey.

[ULTRAZLS1]

great thread thanks again everyone


car is going to be about 100lbs lighter this fall than it was last. And some further tuning is being done. car also had a manifold leak end of last year which didn't allow me to properly nail down the tune.

My final goal is a 10.5 pass this fall on the stock converter with just bolt ons before I move on...


My raceweight is going to be about 3450 lbs. and then ill be tapped for WR that im willing to do on the car. So what will the SC system add? 100-150 lbs?

3600 raceweight at 650 rwhp should be pretty solid.....

[Umbriel]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

great thread thanks again everyone


car is going to be about 100lbs lighter this fall than it was last. And some further tuning is being done. car also had a manifold leak end of last year which didn't allow me to properly nail down the tune.

My final goal is a 10.5 pass this fall on the stock converter with just bolt ons before I move on...


My raceweight is going to be about 3450 lbs. and then ill be tapped for WR that im willing to do on the car. So what will the SC system add? 100-150 lbs?

3600 raceweight at 650 rwhp should be pretty solid.....

what have you removed to get to 3400 pound race weight?

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by Umbriel

what have you removed to get to 3400 pound race weight?

I was 3540 last year and ive done a few little things. Should be right around 3450 now.

15 inch billet wheels all around. fronts are a 15x4 and about 8 lbs each. (rears are new this year)

race brakes all around (rears are new this year)

all seats removed and only a kirkey for the drivers seat.

5 lb battery. (new this year)

fiberglass trunk (new this year)

exhaust dumped at axle at track

washer tank and assembly/motors removed entirely (just use rain x and have no regrets)

run at 1/8 to 1/4 tank at track

about all I can think of I think that's it. I weight 240 lbs myself. I could be under 3400 raceweight if I was a smaller guy