[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Black E

Well the recommended track settings calls for +- 0.1-0.05, so is not like 0 is WAY off.
But for the subject of front tire inner wear, 0 toe is most ideal, no?

Not necessarily.

Rolling drag (and any braking) will cause bushing compliances that ultimately result in a shift in toe. Keep in mind that you're generally going straight ahead here, so you're not getting any 'help' from cornering roll to get the tire straightened back up toward zero camber. If anything, hard braking drives front camber even further negative (biasing braking grip toward the inside shoulder).

Which brings up another thought - how good are your struts, damping-wise?


Norm

[Black E]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Not necessarily.

Rolling drag (and any braking) will cause bushing compliances that ultimately result in a shift in toe. Keep in mind that you're generally going straight ahead here, so you're not getting any 'help' from cornering roll to get the tire straightened back up toward zero camber. If anything, hard braking drives front camber even further negative (biasing braking grip toward the inside shoulder).

Which brings up another thought - how good are your struts, damping-wise?


Norm

It’s a ZL1 1LE on the stock dampers

[KeithO]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Factory camber will be around 1.2 all around but
2.2 F might be a good compromise, but you'll likely get some excessive outside shoulder wear while on track.
Given your dd distances it might be a good idea to get a second set of rims and harder tread tire for dd?

Probably going to do 2.0-2.2 and a little toe out up front. Will flip a coin before I talk to the tech.

Yes I have considered a second set of rims but this would defeat the purpose of the car I just bought. I just sold my whole race setup in March. Car, trailer, spares, everything. I am tired of working on cars. This SS 1LE still has 3 years on the power train warranty even if I track it. That is my motivation here. A second set of rims will put me on that slippery slope again.

I suspect my laps times will decide this but my goal is to not turn another wrench for a very long time.

[Black E]

Originally Posted by KeithO

Black E -

While toe can cause this, don't throw out your original idea of less camber to reduce inner tread wear. If you aren't cornering hard on the street and you have normal tire pressures, of course you will have more load on the inner part of the tire with higher camber. ...think about it - if you could get -10 degrees camber it would be even more severe; your situation is just less at -2.8 degrees.

I woke up this morning planning to determine a decent compromise for alignment for the '17 1LE that I bought yesterday. I plan to daily drive it to work (+80 miles roundtrip) and run track days and possibly time trials. Will think more about alignment specs later today - plan to drop off the car tomorrow for the alignment.

Back in the "olden days" with my 1988 IROC Camaro, I used to change camber before and after track events and marked the suspension with the street and track settings. That was easy - jack up the front of the car, loosen the upper bolts, push the top of the suspension towards the correct paint marks, then retighten the bolts. Done. I haven't looked at this 6th gen to see if this is practical.

Anyway, going to zero or marginally positive toe and a reduced camber will definitely show a difference in wear on the street. But of course, it will also reduce front traction under cornering loads on the track...

Right now I am leaning towards 2.2 neg, camber and a tiny amount of toe out in the front as my starting point. But I need to circle back around to this later today when I get time.

Anyone know what the factory alignment specs are for street driving for these cars?

I don’t drive the car much on the street but I do drive to 2 of my local tracks, one is ~45miles and the other ~60 one way.
At first I thought to adjust the suspension from the track setting on the upper plate back to the street position before and after a track day but I throws off the whole front alingment, specially the toe. So that to me seems counter productive to fight inner tire ware.

I’m going to Sebring this Friday so I’m going to try -2.4 with very very little toe and see how the front wear.
I’m going to rotate them side to side every 2 or 3 sessions as well.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Black E

It’s a ZL1 1LE on the stock dampers

That should at least hold down the amount of "overshoot" into 'bump' when you stand on the brake pedal.

They won't do much of anything for the bushing compliance issue.


Norm

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Black E

I don’t drive the car much on the street but I do drive to 2 of my local tracks, one is ~45miles and the other ~60 one way.
At first o thought to adjust the suspension from the track setting on the upper plate back to street before and after a track day but I throws off the whole front alingment, specially the toe. So that to me seems counter productive to fight inner tire ware.

If you set your toe for track duty at your track camber, and then dial the camber back a little for street duty the toe will move "inward" by some smallish amount. Both changes being in street-driving-friendly directions. Pick a good pair of track and street camber settings and you won't have to touch the toe. Obviously this is for the front strut suspension only.


Norm

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by KeithO

Probably going to do 2.0-2.2 and a little toe out up front. Will flip a coin before I talk to the tech.

Yes I have considered a second set of rims but this would defeat the purpose of the car I just bought. I just sold my whole race setup in March. Car, trailer, spares, everything. I am tired of working on cars. This SS 1LE still has 3 years on the power train warranty even if I track it. That is my motivation here. A second set of rims will put me on that slippery slope again.

I suspect my laps times will decide this but my goal is to not turn another wrench for a very long time.

Funny as i had switched from a trailer queen to my 1LE for those exact reasons, plus for enjoying a superb car on a street as a bonus. Zero regrets! Id suggest you max the camber actually. I dont dd mine but drive it longish distances nevertheless and dont really see any excessive inside wear due to 2.6F camber. And at that setting track wear is pretty nice and even. Only if i saw too much wear from dd would i scale down vs the other way around. This is because youll likely see excessive outer wear from track use much sooner. Just imo. Cheers!