[Mcardenal]

Had the same problem. Used the thicker gasket and still couldn't hold pressure. In the end it wasn't the reservoir cap that was giving me the issue, it was the brass threads between the adapter and the bleeder. I just added a little Teflon tape and it held pressure just fine (I wish i would have thought of that sooner).

Also for those asking about what pressure; 15 psi did the job for me.

Good luck

[DenverTaco07]

so thick gasket? it wasnt apparent where the leak was when i used the thick, i only know after 10 minutes it had dropped 5 psi or so.

i might try again with teflon as you suggested.

[Osbornsm]

What in the crap is going on here?!?

I've bled, i've flushed, i've done everything brake related to the Camaro.
The motive adapter has never slipped or lost pressure.

I don't understand what people are doing wrong.

----------------------------------------------------
1. Buy adapter #: 1118 (or the whole Motive kit is #: 0118)
2. Place the smaller gasket on the inside of cap (NO not the bigger one)
3. Apply PSI
----------------------------------------------------

[tecmec]

Originally Posted by Osbornsm

What in the crap is going on here?!?

I've bled, i've flushed, i've done everything brake related to the Camaro.
The motive adapter has never slipped or lost pressure.

I don't understand what people are doing wrong.

----------------------------------------------------
1. Buy adapter #: 1118 (or the whole Motive kit is #: 0118)
2. Place the smaller gasket on the inside of cap (NO not the bigger one)
3. Apply PSI
----------------------------------------------------

You're probably lucky. I'm sure the manufacturing tolerances on the master are pretty wide. In fact, they must be, because I doubt I could build even 5 PSI with the thin gasket. You get a better seal on yours than we do. Congratulations.

[Stephen12ZL1]

I must be lucky also...on 3 ZL1s and 4 Fifth Gen SS's

[tecmec]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

I must be lucky also...on 3 ZL1s and 4 Fifth Gen SS's

Do you have the plastic motive cap, or the metal?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by tecmec

Do you have the plastic motive cap, or the metal?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

plastic cap with the thin gasket

[TJay74]

So i got the bleeder last week and plan on using it in the coming days. Is it as easy as the directions say?

Empty the vehicle brake reservoir and fill with new fluid. Then put 2qts in the Bleeder container and pump up to 15psi and then start at the furthest wheel and crack the bleeder open until clean fluid comes out?

[Stephen12ZL1]

Make sure to wrap the brass connection with a bit of Teflon tape to ensure a good seal there. The triangular top only seals in one of the possible three positions. Once placed on the master cylinder, try tipping the adapter side to side. If it rocks, try the next position until solid on the master cylinder. This is the part of the equation which is the difference between a good seal and spilling brake fluid. I learned this trick because of a few incidents with these adapters.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by TJay74

So i got the bleeder last week and plan on using it in the coming days. Is it as easy as the directions say?

Empty the vehicle brake reservoir and fill with new fluid. Then put 2qts in the Bleeder container and pump up to 15psi and then start at the furthest wheel and crack the bleeder open until clean fluid comes out?

This thing works better as a positive pressure device. I would start with filling the master cylinder up to the very top and sealing the adapter to the master cylinder. Bleed a wheel at a time and watch the level in the master cylinder and make certain it doesn't drop too low. Make sure there is some fluid visible. Depressurize the Motive Bleeder at the Motive pressure unit top cap. Refill the master cylinder to the very top again and repeat until done. Our master cylinder reservoir is quite large so don't dump 2 qts into the reservoir first as it wastes too much fluid that way. Hope this helps!

[Stephen12ZL1]

I usually pressurize to 12psi or so...it hardly drops during the procedure...maybe to 9-10 when a refill of the reservoir is necessary.

[rlarsen462]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

This thing works better as a positive pressure device. I would start with filling the master cylinder up to the very top and sealing the adapter to the master cylinder. Bleed a wheel at a time and watch the level in the master cylinder and make certain it doesn't drop too low. Make sure there is some fluid visible. Depressurize the Motive Bleeder at the Motive pressure unit top cap. Refill the master cylinder to the very top again and repeat until done. Our master cylinder reservoir is quite large so don't dump 2 qts into the reservoir first as it wastes too much fluid that way. Hope this helps!

This is what I did. I did use the thicker gasket, as I'd read it was necessary. Didn't even try the thinner one but given that it wasn't difficult to put on the lid with the thicker one I don't think the thinner would have worked for me.

I pressurized to 15psi and it didn't budge in over 15 minutes. Worked phenomenally.

Biggest PITA is the whole inaccessible clutch bleeder meaning I had to go through nearly an entire $70 bottle of SRF just pumping the clutch and sucking out the reservoir to try and get fluid into that circuit. Tracked the car a full 8 sessions though and no fade or issues at all so I must have at least gotten the fluid to where it counts during the brake flush process.

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by rlarsen462

This is what I did. I did use the thicker gasket, as I'd read it was necessary. Didn't even try the thinner one but given that it wasn't difficult to put on the lid with the thicker one I don't think the thinner would have worked for me.

I pressurized to 15psi and it didn't budge in over 15 minutes. Worked phenomenally.

Biggest PITA is the whole inaccessible clutch bleeder meaning I had to go through nearly an entire $70 bottle of SRF just pumping the clutch and sucking out the reservoir to try and get fluid into that circuit. Tracked the car a full 8 sessions though and no fade or issues at all so I must have at least gotten the fluid to where it counts during the brake flush process.

Thanks for the info on using just a pressure vessel.

I had planned on once I emptied out the master cylinder on putting new fluid in and pumping the clutch pedal several hundred times to try and flush some new fluid into the clutch system. Then once that is bleed I was going to move onto the actual brake calipers.

[Stephen12ZL1]

start by sucking as much crappy old fluid out of the master cylinder with a turkey baster or equivalent device before the procedure above...sorry, this was an omission.