[LesBaer]

Just got it back. Only had one opportunity to test it but it felt good. Rear end felt much more solid and I didn't get any wheel hop out of a scenario which would've normal given me some (or snapped the stock components in half lol). I'm kind of tight on time right now but will test it more over the weekend. The stock parts look like a joke compared to the BMR parts. They're just so flimsy looking. The BMR parts are slightly heavier but it's really negligible and you can't really push the car (especially with any type of FI) without them.

[LesBaer]

Got some extra time and tested it really good. Exact same situations and locations where it occurred before and it's gone. I'm cured! You can even leave TC on and you're fine. Just to clarify though I'm not doing crazy donuts or anything like that. I'm just launching hard and accelerating hard through the gears. It feels so much better in both straight lines and in turns when you punch it now. I'm happy

[Atomic Ed]

Originally Posted by LesBaer

Got some extra time and tested it really good. Exact same situations and locations where it occurred before and it's gone. I'm cured! You can even leave TC on and you're fine. Just to clarify though I'm not doing crazy donuts or anything like that. I'm just launching hard and accelerating hard through the gears. It feels so much better in both straight lines and in turns when you punch it now. I'm happy

Good to heard Les! How's the NVH? And did you change any of the alignment numbers?

BMR upgrades are on my to do list.

[JaxChris]

Those non-adjustable arms look good and beefy. Did you say you got the lockout kit as well?

[LesBaer]

Here's my whole parts list that I pulled from my invoice which should help:

Upper and Lower trailing poly non-adjustable
Upper control arm poly non-adjustable
Toe rod double adjustable

All of the bushing are actually included so they didn't need to order them separately. Should be approx $600 in parts and you'll need an alignment after as well. It handles much better, night and day. In addition to eliminating the wheel hop, when I kick out my rear end it snaps right back so tight under full acceleration. It feels so good. I'm pretty sure the ZL1 has improved rear suspension components like these as well, and since we're putting down roughly the same power you'll probably want to add these to your list.

[LibertyHill]

Originally Posted by JaxChris

Those non-adjustable arms look good and beefy. Did you say you got the lockout kit as well?

Curious about the lockout kit or subframe bushings as well.

I can see the additional strength in the parts, but the stiffness is mostly from the poly bushings in the new arms vs. rubber in the OEM?

[LTWon]

Is there any increase in NVH?

[JaxChris]

Originally Posted by LibertyHill

Curious about the lockout kit or subframe bushings as well.

I can see the additional strength in the parts, but the stiffness is mostly from the poly bushings in the new arms vs. rubber in the OEM?

Been doing a lot of research on this stuff in the last couple weeks. Hopefully I'm remembering everything correctly.

Two different battles being fought there. The more rigid arms prevent flexing outside of the joints. The bushings prevent unwanted deflection inside the joint. When combined, the lack of deviation in these parts allow for the suspension to operate in a more predictable manner inline with the intended design of the IRS.

Wheel hop is negated because the drive wheels can no longer walk ahead of the car. If you only swapped bushings, then the soft factory arms would bare more torsional force when torque increases at the wheels during high grip. Reverse is true if you swapped arms and kept the factory bushings. The factory arms and bushings are deliberately soft for a few reasons. First, they are cheaper to make. Second, they are easier to assemble. Third, they each provide some give to add additional softness to the ride quality.

Honestly, giving up the extra 2% softness to have an IRS that stops wheel hop and prevents IRS related driveline failures is totally worth it to not only the OP, but to any daily driver that has as much base torque as this car does.

[V8SS]

This is great to hear! Thanks for the update!

[toohighpsi]

Wow this kit looks great, already running the BMR drag lowering springs which I love (look great and worked well at the track this weekend) guess I'll be looking into this setup next.

Anyone have feedback on axle upgrades? I'm guessing they will become a factor before too long.

[JaxChris]

I think most are going to settle for 575-650whp and call it a day due to the higher cost of increasing fuel flow (cam and pump add up). At that level, I don't foresee the driveshaft or axles limits being exceeded unless extremely hard launches are a regular event for a car at that power level.

[LesBaer]

Originally Posted by JaxChris

I think most are going to settle for 575-650whp and call it a day due to the higher cost of increasing fuel flow (cam and pump add up). At that level, I don't foresee the driveshaft or axles limits being exceeded unless extremely hard launches are a regular event for a car at that power level.

Bingo...at least for me for the rest of this summer at least. My water company is about to tear up my neighborhood to put new pipes in, so I may not be able to take my car out much more longer.

[TransAmx2]

Great info, thanks
Not to derail the thread but I had one question/observation, I thought I read that you couldn't/shouldn't jack or lift a 6th gen from the aluminum subframes/engine cradle only the pinch welds? Was I misled/didn't understand correctly or does it apply to floor jacking only?

Thanks

[JaxChris]

LesBaer,
Looks like you have 20k or less in parts/labor and have your car exactly how you want. Better deal than a ZL1. =)