02-12-2020, 02:35 PM | #701 | |
Drives: 2013 C6Z06 Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: PA
Posts: 1,577
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Not getting the satisfaction of proving him wrong time and time again and watching him self implode. No other reason haha
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02-12-2020, 02:36 PM | #702 |
Drives: 21 Bronco Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Carol Stream
Posts: 6,024
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02-12-2020, 02:43 PM | #703 | |
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Drives: 2017 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,692
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Yea my ZL1 certainly is not new anymore. 3 years and 19K miles. However, it still feels brand new. I thought by now I would be tired of it. But I'm not. The only drawback on the ZL1 (and all 6th Gen Camaros for that matter) is the price to mod them. The fueling upgrades alone needed to get me in the 900+ RWHP range will cost over $10K if I go with the 2650. On top of needing a cam and head work. All in all I think this will be a $20K endeavor. However, the other more expensive cars are much cheaper to mod. It seems like either way you're gonna be paying about the same money to mod any of these cars. You're either getting the car much cheaper and spending more on mods...or you're paying more for the car but it has excellent mod-ability. Perhaps the absolute best way to go is with a used low mileage example and mod that. |
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02-12-2020, 03:22 PM | #704 | |
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 1,980
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I think the m7 zr1 tops out in 6th but I'm pretty sure it doesnt reach the top of 6th. While it sucks that it only goes 180, definately a bad look for the car and the engineering, it is what it is and at the end of the day isn't that big of a deal in reality. The m6 zl1 tops out at 174ish which is pretty sad too regardless of the a10 doing 200ish.
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2000 Miata - aventi storm wheels, roll bar.
2019 Mustang GT pp1 - svt pp2 wheels, mbrp cat back, sync 3 upgrade, p1x procharger + stg2 intercooler. 2018 Colorado zr2 - zr2 sport bar, showcase spare tire. 2018 Camaro SS 1LE - GM cai, black bowties, suede knee bolsters, 1le plate frame, black fuel door, dark tails + 3rd brake light, euro side markers + led's, GM all weather floor mats, velossatech big mouth, GM strut brace. 2017 Corvette Grandsport (sold) - untouched. 2006 GTO (sold) - iat relocation, air box mod, monero side marker lights. |
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02-13-2020, 05:37 PM | #705 | |
Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hilo, HI
Posts: 4,324
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I think the Zl1 is the cheapest car to mod from mild to wild. 1) it nas a drivetrain that is strong vs say a GT auto (probably my second choice for easy and responsiveness to mods) The GT has a limited shaft strength in relation to HP So shafts: Zl1 and 1LE 2) diff, Dodge: marginal and aluminum housing SRT and Demon, the R/T diff can't be considered and on some R/T is open anyway. The Ford 8.8 is a excellent rear but at some power lever, sooner or later the 8.8 diff will become shacky. advantage ZL1, 1LE, then the Ford 8.8. 3) forged pistons, and valves, and CR designed for boost. Here the ZL1 (outside the Demon / Hellcat) is the only engine made for boost. The Demon / Hellcat, hemi maybe even a better engine vs the LT4 but they have a 400 to 500 lbs weight penalty that IMO can't be overcome by a stronger block and slightly better head design. The 5.0 IMO gets expensive to mod, so once you past the limits of the stock long back the price curve is "through the roof" advantage ZL1, then say to 800 engine I think the 5.0 is a solid choice to 800 above 800 I partial and would take either a LT1 with drop-ins or the LT4 out of the box. thus it would be ZL1, then 5.0 to a point, then back to LT4 or LT1. 4) fuel delivery. I don't really think my fuel upgrades were that expensive for what can support 1000 HP and there were easy to install. Ford's dual inject I would assume has a big advantage. Dodge probably is just as cheap to mod as the Ford, BUT it does not get the DIbenefits. Advantage Ford on price. GM offers the same performance so tie. 5) weight as noted it looks like it goes Alpha, Mustang... and at a very distant 3rd is the 1986 Benz that thinks it is a Muscle car: Challenger. 6) true street handling with summer tires: ZL1, 1LE, GT350, SS and then the GT, the dodge well um the widebody... but not really. Clear winner the Alpa. Nutshell the ZL1 seems to offer the most platform to start from. Then the auto GT (less torque and good HP potential on the stock long block), a good combination for something that can last, closely followed by the 1le and then the auto SS. This is all in regards to a fast street with DR or 1/4 mile that is also a DD. Once we get to the trailer queen stuff, the guy that is 1) lucky 2) has deep pockets 3) has the most compromised DD will be the faster car Nutshell again, the Zl1 ( especially the A10)from mild to blot on (including blower upgrade) makes for a pretty nice DD to a decent drag car that retains its DD ability. The base GT auto makes for a reasonable platform, but at some point it will need a forged engine, shafts, and maybe stronger diff (depending on gear ratio). For I need a manual: Zl1,1LE, SS, GT and it you got some deep pockets GT350. I got bucks and don't want to fool with shops and specs: Demon.
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
Last edited by oldman; 02-13-2020 at 05:59 PM. |
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02-13-2020, 09:13 PM | #706 | |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2017 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,692
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02-14-2020, 08:21 AM | #707 |
Banned
Drives: ford f150 Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: hsv
Posts: 40
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Both SS and GT you can slap a blower on and your good to go. Don't know where your getting all this extra shit from.
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02-14-2020, 09:06 AM | #708 |
Drives: E92 BMW M3 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,496
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You're*
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02-14-2020, 09:26 AM | #709 |
Drives: 2019 CLA 450 Mercedes Join Date: May 2016
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 1,107
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I will just point out that a larger portion of the owners of the SS and ZL1 Alpha platform cars will likely keep them stock. There are a number of reasons, including warranty concerns, tracking the car (see first item, too) and the weird idea that some of us think they are fast enough, stock.
In the used market I, for one, would never buy a car that has had any mechanical modifications made to it.
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02-14-2020, 09:58 AM | #710 | |
Retired from GM
Drives: 2017 Camaro Fifty SS Convertible Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Detroit
Posts: 5,240
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2017 CAMARO FIFTY SS CONVERTIBLE
A8 | MRC | NPP | Nav | HUD | GM Performance CAI | Tony Mamo LT1 V2 Ported TB | Kooks 1-7/8” LT Headers | FlexFuel Tune | Thinkware Q800 Pro front and rear dash cam | Charcoal Tint for Taillights and 3rd Brakelight | Orange and Carbon Fiber Bowties | 1LE Wheels in Gunmetal Gray | Carbon Fiber Interior Overlays | Novistretch bra and mirror covers | Tow hitch for bicycle rack | |
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02-14-2020, 10:20 AM | #711 | |
Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hilo, HI
Posts: 4,324
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I don't know why I even bother with post like yours, as you have NOT A CLUE what is needed to DD and then 1/4 mile a car in the real world. Have fun with your F150. BTW, almost all Muscle cars (especially the ones on this thread) would benefit from a set of 888R or similar compound rubber, before ANY power mod.
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
Last edited by oldman; 02-14-2020 at 11:10 AM. |
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02-14-2020, 12:13 PM | #712 |
Drives: 22 ZL1, 20 Taco, 20 Cayenne S Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: MN
Posts: 624
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I'm keeping mine bone stock for warranty purposes. I've never been one to mod for power anyway. If I mod it is usually suspension, wheel or stopping related. I do wish GM would make the OEM LT4 CAI for the ZL1, like they do for the LT4 in the Vette. I would add that if they backed it up warranty wise etc.
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02-14-2020, 12:28 PM | #713 |
Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hilo, HI
Posts: 4,324
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C8, I'm with you, I'd get the base C8.... and maybe years later, I'd do an OEM header second hand, polished ceramic coat. Off the floor: ceramic wax and oh tint would be my only mods PERIOD. The headers are that beautiful...not like I have an exhaust fetish or anything.
The manual SS shafts are iffy with stock power and decent rubber / launch, I believe that GM performance shafts (dealer installed) will keep your warranty intact. I think Ford has something similar, don't think Dodge does it (I had a supercharged Challenger).
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
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02-14-2020, 12:40 PM | #714 | |
Drives: 18' A10 ZL1 , 18' F150, 04' MSM Join Date: May 2018
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 178
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Biggest reason I went ZL1 was wanting to avoid the mod bug. It's much easier to buy a car like this and drive it in Kommifornia than dealing with a modified car. |
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