[ButcherSS]

So my 2016 Camaro SS has left me stranded 4 times now. I'm at the point of parting it out and just buying something else. The car definitely has a voltage problem. The voltage is so low that the fuel pump and dash lights go out, and the car spins over but won't start.
Before being stranded the first time, I noticed my volt meter was climbing a little above 14v then falls towards the minimum gray area on the gauge, repeatedly.
The car has 138,000 miles, longtube headers, rotofab, lt2 intake, e85 and Pray Performance tune. The car has had a check engine light on ever since the tune from 2018.
I've placed extra grounds on the car previously. I replaced the alternator today and it ran fine for around 40 miles. The volts stayed a little above 14v and never moved until the end of the test drive, then fail to the low gray area once again and did not rise back up. I tested the battery and it was 12.4v. The engine will spin over but not start do to the low voltage. I placed a different battery from another Camaro and the car started, ran normal and stayed around 14v, then began to fall towards the low area again the longer the car ran. The car eventually shut off and that battery ran down to 12.5v when tested. Again, car spins over but no restart. The only thing I have noticed lately is that the radiator fan is running full blast when normal temp is reached, like when the thermostat sticks.
I've check the wiring and read threw tons of online threads. Any ideas???

[Forbaken]

This is more of a bump than a solution; I'm curious of what the problem is too.


I've noticed that this car is VERY finicky with power. I'm in the process of getting my car tuned and I just had to replace my '22 battery with less than 9k miles. The car turned over fine, but the voltage would drop pretty steep. I had check engine lights for the fuel pump controller module (and eventually more) while trying to diagnose the problem.



I believe the voltage should sit at 12.6-12.8. But, personally, it sounds like you have a parasitic problem.

[6spdhyperblue]

Originally Posted by ButcherSS

So my 2016 Camaro SS has left me stranded 4 times now. I'm at the point of parting it out and just buying something else. The car definitely has a voltage problem. The voltage is so low that the fuel pump and dash lights go out, and the car spins over but won't start.
Before being stranded the first time, I noticed my volt meter was climbing a little above 14v then falls towards the minimum gray area on the gauge, repeatedly.
The car has 138,000 miles, longtube headers, rotofab, lt2 intake, e85 and Pray Performance tune. The car has had a check engine light on ever since the tune from 2018.
I've placed extra grounds on the car previously. I replaced the alternator today and it ran fine for around 40 miles. The volts stayed a little above 14v and never moved until the end of the test drive, then fail to the low gray area once again and did not rise back up. I tested the battery and it was 12.4v. The engine will spin over but not start do to the low voltage. I placed a different battery from another Camaro and the car started, ran normal and stayed around 14v, then began to fall towards the low area again the longer the car ran. The car eventually shut off and that battery ran down to 12.5v when tested. Again, car spins over but no restart. The only thing I have noticed lately is that the radiator fan is running full blast when normal temp is reached, like when the thermostat sticks.
I've check the wiring and read threw tons of online threads. Any ideas???

Did you any point run a lithium ion battery?

what date did Brett write the tune that’s in the car?

[ButcherSS]

10/20/2020 was my last tune from Pray. I don't think the tune has played any part of this issue. The car has always ran great until 2 weeks ago.
I recharged my battery today and the engine spins over fast and hits and stumble idles for a few seconds before cutting off. I scanned the car tonight and it displayed P069E and P023F, along with the same old cylinder deactivation, heater control circuit banks and evap emissions codes. I've never ran a lithium battery. I replaced the O.E. battery in 2021 with a duralast from autozone.

[Mark114]

Maybe this video will help you resolve the problem, or give you some ideas?

2018 Chevrolet Camaro 1SS, P069E P023F engine codes...before you change your fuel pump, Watch This.

[ctrlz]

I think your problem is with the active power management. I don't think the alternator is being commanded to recharge the battery. I would put a meter on the battery terminals when you start the car and see what you get. There is a current sensing unit on one of the cables near the battery in the trunk. I think there are some old threads here where I posted the entire explanation of active power management from the repair manual.

Here it is, starting at post #12:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596073

Some more stuff. I would look at the battery current sensing module;
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=73

[ButcherSS]

I will try these ideas. Thank you guys. I spoke with the local GM dealership this morning. The technician went straight to a fuel pump driver module. Then explained that they would be a delay on parts and service because of the automotive strike

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by ButcherSS

The technician went straight to a fuel pump driver module.

This is without hooking up any scan tool to the car?
If this was a common pattern, fuel pump modules causing battery charging problems, it would have been reported here.
I would advise not to pay for any parts based on wild guesses. Technician could be 100% correct. Just seems this would've come up before.

[6spdhyperblue]

I’m siding with the tech on this one

[DaveC113]

These cars are complicated enough a tech with experience of the actual problem is often the only good solution. I had a coolant leak and battery discharge issue that took visits to two dealers in order to find a tech familiar enough with the issues.

So the car normally runs the battery less than fully charged, for whatever reason 12.5V is pretty normal even though it's really only halfway charged or so. I have no idea why and can't understand the charging logic, but it's on purpose or the cars use so much juice they need regular long highway drives (or a larger alternator) to keep the battery charged. GM sells a charger, it's the CTek 5A smart charger afaik, so I got one and use it at least every other week.

If I remember right, expected battery life is 3 years, I got a new one just before the 3 year mark and now at 5 years... hopefully the regular charging with the CTek will extend battery life.

[Dynamical]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

These cars are complicated enough a tech with experience of the actual problem is often the only good solution. I had a coolant leak and battery discharge issue that took visits to two dealers in order to find a tech familiar enough with the issues.

So the car normally runs the battery less than fully charged, for whatever reason 12.5V is pretty normal even though it's really only halfway charged or so. I have no idea why and can't understand the charging logic, but it's on purpose or the cars use so much juice they need regular long highway drives (or a larger alternator) to keep the battery charged. GM sells a charger, it's the CTek 5A smart charger afaik, so I got one and use it at least every other week.

If I remember right, expected battery life is 3 years, I got a new one just before the 3 year mark and now at 5 years... hopefully the regular charging with the CTek will extend battery life.

I'm still learning about these cars but I noticed they have some kind of a smart charging (or whatever it's called) system like Honda has dual mode charging. These "dual mode charging systems" on the Honda at least, has resulted in MANY unnecessary replacements of alternators and batteries. The charging systems are so smart, they won't put out a full 14v to charge the battery when needed on short trips. They stay around 12.5v. It can be a problem. I learned turning on the headlights forces the alternator to put out full charge 14v+ So now I have no low battery issues. (I have a Honda for a beater/daily)
Now regarding the 6thgen, I'm wondering if the same type of problem could exist and if there's a way to force the alternator to put out a full 14v charge such as putting on the headlights.

[ButcherSS]

I checked the plugs traveling to the fuel pump module after watching those videos you guys recommended. I found 2 wires that have been hot enough to melt the outlet of the connector surrounding those wires. One wire appeared to be black w/grn stripe and a white wire. The ground wires going to the fuel pump control module appeared to be grounded by sight, but the ground nut was only hand tight. I recharged my battery and reinstalled and the car came to life. I didn't have time to drive it yet, but I hope that was the problem. I should know more in a few days. I appreciate the help and I'll update soon. I'll also post some photos when I return home

[Hyperion]

Currently dealing with voltage issues also. This is just as a temporary band-aid but it does seem that the car will keep the battery topped off if you run with the headlights on.

[ButcherSS]

I drove the car around 200 miles this weekend and no starting problems so far. I did purchase a brand new battery to go along with cleaning and tighting the grounds and checking all the fuel pressure module plugs. We shall see how it goes. Thanks for all the help and ideas