[Jonnydz]

Looking to hit the track soon. I am aware of all the preps that are a must. Probably just do 3 or so track days a year. Prices are double in Florida compared to track days in California. Anyways I'll prob do either motul 600 or 660. I understand the initial flush. But why does everyone recommend bleeding before every track day? Also how often would I need to do complete flush with the motul? Thanks. Proud new owner.

[x_jarhead]

I use Motul 660 and Hawk DTC60 pads. I fully bled the system (all the bleed valves on all the wheels and starting at the farthest caliper) at the beginning of the season. I usually bleed a little out of the fronts (which get significantly hotter than the rear) before every event. I remove the wheels to measure brake pad thickness so I’m in there anyway. This habit come from the myriad of Car I tracked with small brakes. It may well be superstition now as the brakes on the 1LE are pretty stout. I will note that during my first couple of events I’ve encountered a “long pedal” which indicated the fluid in the caliper exceeded its max temp and boiled which produces small air bubbles in the caliper. A quick bleed typically fixes it. I’ve come off track and seen rotor temps over 600F and caliper temps over 500 even during cool weather.

I’ll probably fully bleed every couple of months. The reason is the brake fluid absorbs moisture that reduces it’s boiling point. Nearly all of that absorption occurs in the reservoir which is vented to air. In my case each time I bleed, contaminated fluid gets closer to the caliper. I want to fully bleed before it reaches them.

And finally, because anything orth doing is worth overdoing, I bought the KBS Brake duct kit. I’ll install it as the weather gets warmer...

[Provoste]

I don’t bleed my brakes before every event, I average a bleed prolly every 2 events, just a quick foot bleed to get fresh fluid to the calipers. BTW, RBF660 has no real advantage over RBF600, yes it has a little higher dry boiling point, but more importantly RBF 600 has a higher wet boiling point (401 vs 421) and is cheaper. I use SRF (518 wet boiling point).

[Whitespeed]

Castrol SRF matches RB600 for dry boiling point, but still has a very high wet boiling of 518F compared to 399F for RB600. Consequently it can be left in much longer between bleeds. Yes it costs more up front, but you'll save money and time in the long run. If you're only doing 3 events, so long as they're within 6 months IIRC, you probably won't need to rebleed with Castrol.

Nigel

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

Castrol SRF matches RB600 for dry boiling point, but still has a very high wet boiling of 518F compared to 399F for RB600. Consequently it can be left in much longer between bleeds. Yes it costs more up front, but you'll save money and time in the long run. If you're only doing 3 events, so long as they're within 6 months IIRC, you probably won't need to rebleed with Castrol.

Nigel

I go a year between bleeds with SRF. I'm not a slow driver and have never experienced an issue with yearly flushes.

Granted if you actually DO boil the fluid then you have to at least bleed but I don't see most doing that with a 1LE.

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I go a year between bleeds with SRF. I'm not a slow driver and have never experienced an issue with yearly flushes.

Granted if you actually DO boil the fluid then you have to at least bleed but I don't see most doing that with a 1LE.

I thought I read 6 months somewhere, but I just found this in the product data sheet:

The properties of this formulation are
such that in order to derive maximum benefit the use of Castrol React SRF Racing should
be restricted to not more than eighteen months before draining and refilling.

[kropscamaro16]

i have the motul 600 but my local trackrat shop told me to upgrade to the castrol srf stuff its pretty much all they use

[Jonnydz]

So with the more expensive srf u basically just do a quick bleed 1 time a year? How often do u do a full flush? And when u do a little bleed u will still need a new un opened bottle correct?

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by Jonnydz

So with the more expensive srf u basically just do a quick bleed 1 time a year? How often do u do a full flush? And when u do a little bleed u will still need a new un opened bottle correct?

As per the product data sheet, you should at most go 18 months between full flushes. But if you are tracking the car, a full flush at least annualy would be wise. No need to do a partial (quick) bleed. One bottle is enough for a flush.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Jonnydz

So with the more expensive srf u basically just do a quick bleed 1 time a year? How often do u do a full flush? And when u do a little bleed u will still need a new un opened bottle correct?

I do a bleed as needed (ie I boiled it which hasn't yet happened with SRF). For a bleed I don't mind using an opened bottle, more concerned about fluid in the caliper than reservoir/etc. I'm sure it can mix eventually but :shrug:.

I do yearly flushes.

Financially I used to go through 15-20 bucks of fluid every 2 events, now I do one $70 bottle or whatever it sells for an Amazon once a year which can be 6-12 events pretty easily.

[OVRKLL]

Just wondering if any of you use the Motive Pressure Brake Bleeder when flushing your fluids?
This would be a pushing action on the fluid.



Or do you use a pull vacuum type bleeder instead?

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by OVRKLL

Just wondering if any of you use the Motive Pressure Brake Bleeder when flushing your fluids?
This would be a pushing action on the fluid.

Or do you use a pull vacuum type bleeder instead?

I have a Motive bleeder. My first experience with it did not go well. I thought I had the Motive master cylinder cap properly installed. I read the instructions and watched a few youtube videos to be sure I was familiar with the process before I started. I installed the thin gasket in the cap and test fit the cap on the master cylinder a few times to be confident I had it on properly before doing the dry pressure test, which passed. Everything looked good so I poured the brake fluid into the bleeder and pumped it up to 15 psi. I was half way through bleeding the first caliper when I could hear liquid pouring on the ground. That’s when I discovered my expensive Castrol SRF fluid was pouring out of the master cylinder from under the Power Bleeder cap, all over the inner fender of my brand new car and onto the ground.

I flushed everything with gallons of water and tried again. But it did it again. This time I noticed it right away though. I thought maybe the thin gasket was the wrong choice, so I tried the thicker gasket. This time it at least started leaking during the dry test. But I still couldn’t figure out why. From every angle I could see, the cap looked to be on properly. I finally resorted to using a mirror to see the underside of the cap. It turned out that one of the tabs on the cap was going around the outside of the tab on the master cylinder, instead of under it. Since it wasn’t going over top of the tab on the MC, it still looked like it was on, and felt like it was on, but it couldn’t hold pressure for any length of time.

I still like the concept of the Power Bleeder, but I have a hard time trusting it now. The last time I used it, I just left it empty and checked the MC level from time to time to be sure I didn't run it dry. It's more of a hassle that way, but at least it avoids the potential mess if the cap doesn't hold.

Nigel

[FlashBang23]

I've got the motive bleeder. The first time I used it I had the same issue Whitespeed mentioned above and made a complete mess. Once I got the right gasket in and the cap seated properly the motive worked very well. I've used it twice since then and had no complaints. I will admit for $68 (plus I bring my own fluid) my local dealer will do it for me. I got lazy this spring and just had them do it lol.

[lt-fun]

Hey guys, I'm new to the road course. I've recently began tracking my Camaro and found out that I definitely need to switch to some high temp fluid. It seems like everyone here recommends the Castrol SRF. How much do I need to complete the job?

Also, it sounds like switching the pads out is very common. Is there a particular brand or type I should be using? Car is my daily driver, but I really enjoyed that and autocrossing it so I'd like to go on a somewhat regular basis. Thanks in advance!