Most efficient method for swapping pistons/rods? - Page 2

Eldi Z · 12-25-2019, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Pull the heads first, with the motor still in the car. The extra clearance to the firewall allows you to tilt the motor/trans just enough to pull the short block without messing with the pan or cradle.

Thanks for this input. Can save a lot of headache.

L78toLT1 · 12-25-2019, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Thanks for this input. Can save a lot of headache.

You're welcome. I did mine, by myself, with no problem at all. I did the same thing in reverse when I reinstalled the motor. I did have to drop the cradle a bit to get it back in, but that was as simple as loosening the bolts. I didn't unbolt the side radiators as Oldman suggests, primarily because I didn't notice how they were attached. I'll certainly be cognizant of this when/if I pull the motor in the future.
Good luck! I'm sure you will be back up and running soon!

L78toLT1 · 12-25-2019, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

So there it is! The fact that you decided to balance the RA despite GPI's claim for 100% "Drop In", says a lot. Aftermarket Rods-Pistons combo is not 100% equal in weight to the OEM material.
Unfortunately, where I am stationed right now, there is no engine balancing service like back home, so it is either send my RA together with the Pistons-Rods combo back home to a machine shop, or order a completely new balanced RA with forged material and have it shipped over for install.

Another option - Fully built & blue-printed S.block with forged components inside.

I wish there was (eventually would be available...) a Pistons-Rods combo from a different vendor that would actually match the OE material's weight 100% dead on.
Maybe Vengeance or CMS (or some others?) might have them one day...

I was browsing the forums earlier and ran across ChadFarr's build thread. He used the gpi pistons/rods and did not have to rebalance - he had his motor out, at the machine shop, and didn't have to do a thing, balance wise.

oldman · 12-25-2019, 02:59 PM

I use the GPI and did not pull the crank or rebalance. They had a super sale black Friday... I purchased mine 7 months ago. They rate it at 1000 HP, but IMO the CR is too high AND the components are very light for this HP. My limit was set at 850 HP with LT, 800 with stockish ( two homemade front cats, rest is stock) exhaust. /Cunningham rates their drop -in at 1200? IMO the stock weight is VERY light for 850 HP... but I will admit I grew up racing 440 engines with hemi rods.

oldman · 12-25-2019, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

You're welcome. I did mine, by myself, with no problem at all. I did the same thing in reverse when I reinstalled the motor. I did have to drop the cradle a bit to get it back in, but that was as simple as loosening the bolts. I didn't unbolt the side radiators as Oldman suggests, primarily because I didn't notice how they were attached. I'll certainly be cognizant of this when/if I pull the motor in the future.
Good luck! I'm sure you will be back up and running soon!

For sure not to put pressure on the front large radiator, the two top retaining bolts should be loosened. I don't know why I had to take out the bottom supporting bolt to the passenger radiator, mine is supercharged and that may have something to do with the way it would not drop out (dunno)

Eldi Z · 12-25-2019, 06:18 PM

Thanks for this valuable input L78toLT1 and Oldman
I think that I shall first take my chances with the SBE, boost conservatively ~ 8 PSI and maybe add Meth for pure cooling purposes and see how the motor lives.
Worst case, if it fails sometime, then I shall go into the process of repairing the damage with forged material, which requires this job.

DorkMissile · 12-26-2019, 11:05 AM

As I recently pulled my engine - I would advise pulling the trans mounted to the engine (if it’s a M6). I spent more time getting the trans off of the engine than I did everything else.

I had the car up in tall jack stands, loosened all cradle bolts. Removed the rear ones, middle ones about 7 turns out, front ones two turns out.

The issue I had (other than no trans jack or a hoist) was that one I got the trans separated. The engine laid back down on the cradle, but pulled the bellhousing tight against the trans tunnel / floor so it couldn’t go back any farther.

When going back in I will mount the trans first and swing it all in together.

12-25-2019, 02:59 PM	#18
oldman Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Hilo, HI Posts: 4,316	I use the GPI and did not pull the crank or rebalance. They had a super sale black Friday... I purchased mine 7 months ago. They rate it at 1000 HP, but IMO the CR is too high AND the components are very light for this HP. My limit was set at 850 HP with LT, 800 with stockish ( two homemade front cats, rest is stock) exhaust. /Cunningham rates their drop -in at 1200? IMO the stock weight is VERY light for 850 HP... but I will admit I grew up racing 440 engines with hemi rods. __________________ Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.

12-26-2019, 11:05 AM	#21
DorkMissile Drives: 18 1SS 1LE HyperBlue Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Twin Cities, MN Posts: 612	As I recently pulled my engine - I would advise pulling the trans mounted to the engine (if it’s a M6). I spent more time getting the trans off of the engine than I did everything else. I had the car up in tall jack stands, loosened all cradle bolts. Removed the rear ones, middle ones about 7 turns out, front ones two turns out. The issue I had (other than no trans jack or a hoist) was that one I got the trans separated. The engine laid back down on the cradle, but pulled the bellhousing tight against the trans tunnel / floor so it couldn’t go back any farther. When going back in I will mount the trans first and swing it all in together. __________________ 2018 1SS 1LE / HBM - ECS Novi 1500 S/C Tuned by Carl @ CJ Tunes

12-25-2019, 06:18 PM	#20
Eldi Z Drives: 17' 1SS 1LE GBA-Black Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: TLV Posts: 810	Thanks for this valuable input L78toLT1 and Oldman I think that I shall first take my chances with the SBE, boost conservatively ~ 8 PSI and maybe add Meth for pure cooling purposes and see how the motor lives. Worst case, if it fails sometime, then I shall go into the process of repairing the damage with forged material, which requires this job.

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