[Eldi Z]

From some of you with engine building experience:

What is your take on swapping to a forged aftermarket "Drop-In" Pistons/Rods set, while the engine remains in the bay
Vs.
Lifting out the motor, including everything involved with dismantling connectors, Etc. and then re-installing everything back again when swap is completed?

Pros and Cons to each method...

[parish8]

I took my engine out the top. It lifts right out of there. I did a cam and head studs at the same time. Seems like it would be a bitch to do all that work in the car but I have never tried.

[L78toLT1]

I second what Parish8 says. It's no problem to pull it out the top and I much prefer working on a motor on an engine stand also. My drop in piston/rod combo still required a little balancing. The machinist said it was close enough that it probably would have been fine, but it's smooth as silk now. It's worth a couple hundred bucks to me for the peace of mind. You can also put in ARP main studs while you're at it. Mine didn't need any line honing.

[laynlo15]

No, don't do it from the bottom. Do it right and pull it from the top. You can do it with some help in about 5-6 hours. Buy a lift plate from Summit for the LT engines and that bolts into the place where the Valley Cover would be. I think they are about 60 bucks and do whatever you plan in the future now so you don't have to return to do it again and another pull out. I also installed the BMR tubular motor mounts and you won't believe how much more room you have on each side for headers, etc. I pulled the pan off a couple weeks ago because I had an oil pump issue, spent several hours doing that and come to find out it had spun at least 2 main bearings. I still have to pull it out for a motor rebuild again, but we thought it might just be the pump but that's not all it was.

[Eldi Z]

Thanks for the valuable inputs.
So pulling the motor it will be when the time comes...

So I shall get myself this LT engine Lift Plate as well.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

My drop in piston/rod combo still required a little balancing. The machinist said it was close enough that it probably would have been fine, but it's smooth as silk now. It's worth a couple hundred bucks to me for the peace of mind. You can also put in ARP main studs while you're at it. Mine didn't need any line honing.

So there it is! The fact that you decided to balance the RA despite GPI's claim for 100% "Drop In", says a lot. Aftermarket Rods-Pistons combo is not 100% equal in weight to the OEM material.
Unfortunately, where I am stationed right now, there is no engine balancing service like back home, so it is either send my RA together with the Pistons-Rods combo back home to a machine shop, or order a completely new balanced RA with forged material and have it shipped over for install.

Another option - Fully built & blue-printed S.block with forged components inside.

I wish there was (eventually would be available...) a Pistons-Rods combo from a different vendor that would actually match the OE material's weight 100% dead on.
Maybe Vengeance or CMS (or some others?) might have them one day...

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

No, don't do it from the bottom. Do it right and pull it from the top. You can do it with some help in about 5-6 hours. Buy a lift plate from Summit for the LT engines and that bolts into the place where the Valley Cover would be. I think they are about 60 bucks and do whatever you plan in the future now so you don't have to return to do it again and another pull out. I also installed the BMR tubular motor mounts and you won't believe how much more room you have on each side for headers, etc. I pulled the pan off a couple weeks ago because I had an oil pump issue, spent several hours doing that and come to find out it had spun at least 2 main bearings. I still have to pull it out for a motor rebuild again, but we thought it might just be the pump but that's not all it was.

Regarding the BMR Tubular MMounts: How do they compare to the OE MMs in terms of ride feel, Etc. ? Are they rigid / cause in-cabin vibrations? Or do they behave and feel like the stock ones?

[laynlo15]

Its feels solid but you'll loose some weight of the front also. Those liquid filled mounts are heavy. Seemed like I lost about 18 lbs up front.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Its feels solid but you'll loose some weight of the front also. Those liquid filled mounts are heavy. Seemed like I lost about 18 lbs up front.

Got it.
This means that it almost equalizes the front weight compared to the rear.
In the SS 1LE, which is my variant, the stock weight distribution is ~ 52% Front / 48% Rear.
With these BMR mounts, it will be closer to a 50/50 Ratio, which might be a good thing? Not sure.

When you say these mounts feel "Solid", do you mean harsh-hard / less comfortable than the stock ones? What about in-cabin vibration? Does it increase with these mounts as well?
I daily/street drive - No track, Etc. and would like to avoid compromising the comfortable ride experience.

[Dysan911]

I'm not 100% sure on this but I hear if you have an A8 which seems most of the guys suggesting pulling the engine do. The A8 is easier to pull the motor vs the M6. Correct me if I'm wrong but you can separate the Engine from the Tranny on the A8 no problem but the entire Trans has to come with the engine on the M6. Not sure how much more work that makes it.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

I'm not 100% sure on this but I hear if you have an A8 which seems most of the guys suggesting pulling the engine do. The A8 is easier to pull the motor vs the M6. Correct me if I'm wrong but you can separate the Engine from the Tranny on the A8 no problem but the entire Trans has to come with the engine on the M6. Not sure how much more work that makes it.

Good point here. Must be investigated further...

[oldman]

M6 needs the pan removed and to do that, you need to lower the cradle 1.5" and unbolt all three radiators as they are bolted to the cradle. So this adds 45 minutes. The BMR mounts save like 40 minutes... if you are working on the car BMR is a grief savor. My car has cam and now has a big cam I put back the stock mounts to see if it would tame the beast but not really... Nuts shell BMR is the way to go as it has SO much more room.

[Eldi Z]

OK, but since (at least in my case), the stock motor mounts are still there, this extra unbolting job of radiators must be performed...

[L78toLT1]

Pull the heads first, with the motor still in the car. The extra clearance to the firewall allows you to tilt the motor/trans just enough to pull the short block without messing with the pan or cradle.