[5senna5]

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[Move_Over]

Very nice. Sent this to a friend.

Would you be willing to part with the spacers? I’ll take them if so.

[G2K]

Great price and setup, weird someone so track focused actually preferred the 1LE over the GS.... mind sharing exactly why? Im on that boat, wanting to change to a C7 (still decided on GS or Z06) but parting ways from the 1LE is being very hard for me since I love it so much... the way it drives, I would think the C7's are better at this.

[5senna5]

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[D K]

What class do you race in? is it a TT car?

Also, where do you buy your DH slicks from?

Originally Posted by 5senna5

I too thought I’d prefer a Grand Sport after running the whole ‘17 season in my ‘17 1LE. I bought a 1LT package car at a great price that winter. First off, I stupidly didn’t bring my helmet when I test drove it and found on my first track day with it that at 6’2” I didn’t fit. Helmet was jammed in to the roof. I had to pull the seat forward about four inches and ghetto lean the back in order to drive it with a helmet on, way less than ideal. The Vette is of course an awesome track car but in reality it’s about 5% quicker than a 1LE, 30% more expensive, and no more fun or rewarding to drive. Bang for buck the 1LE smokes it. Even beyond all of that the single biggest reason I sold it was watching my buddy almost crash his twice by engaging Ice-Mode while braking hard from 135mph at our local track. He came out of a Z/28 with carbon ceramic brakes and has a different (more severe) braking style than me although it can happen to anyone who 10/10ths it on track. Hard weight transfer over the front at high speed can lift enough weight off the rear wheels that the rotational force of the wheel/tire overcomes the friction of the rear brake pads and they over rotate slightly. It isn’t any kind of an issue for the driver other than the (undefeatable even if full Race PTM or all traction off modes) traction system freaks the hell out over math and thinks the fronts are starting to lock up on ice since they’re rotating slower now “than they should”. Braking power is instantly hugely reduced in an attempt to correct the “traction imbalance” and you sail past your braking zone carrying waaaaay too much speed until you get the nuts to lift off the pedal completely and get back on the brakes again, which is the only way to regain full braking power. The thought of the car wrecking us while trying to save us on the track was enough for me to switch back out of it. The whole issue has been discussed at great length on C7 forums with GM engineers saying yes it happens and no they can’t and won’t do anything to change it, it’s too woven in to the traction system to defeat they say. Very long explanation I know, but if you are an advanced driver that really pushes your car on track it’s seriosuly worth investigating before you buy a C7. For most of the guys at track days that are 7-8/10ths driving it out there, they’ll never engage it and the car is fine (for them). I was lucky and 6 months after I bought the Grand Sport I was able to sell it for $1,200 less than I paid for it, so away it went and I immediately purchased another (‘18) 1LE to finish the remainder of last season.

[G2K]

Originally Posted by 5senna5

I too thought I’d prefer a Grand Sport after running the whole ‘17 season in my ‘17 1LE. I bought a 1LT package car at a great price that winter. First off, I stupidly didn’t bring my helmet when I test drove it and found on my first track day with it that at 6’2” I didn’t fit. Helmet was jammed in to the roof. I had to pull the seat forward about four inches and ghetto lean the back in order to drive it with a helmet on, way less than ideal. The Vette is of course an awesome track car but in reality it’s about 5% quicker than a 1LE, 30% more expensive, and no more fun or rewarding to drive. Bang for buck the 1LE smokes it. Even beyond all of that the single biggest reason I sold it was watching my buddy almost crash his twice by engaging Ice-Mode while braking hard from 135mph at our local track. He came out of a Z/28 with carbon ceramic brakes and has a different (more severe) braking style than me although it can happen to anyone who 10/10ths it on track. Hard weight transfer over the front at high speed can lift enough weight off the rear wheels that the rotational force of the wheel/tire overcomes the friction of the rear brake pads and they over rotate slightly. It isn’t any kind of an issue for the driver other than the (undefeatable even if full Race PTM or all traction off modes) traction system freaks the hell out over math and thinks the fronts are starting to lock up on ice since they’re rotating slower now “than they should”. Braking power is instantly hugely reduced in an attempt to correct the “traction imbalance” and you sail past your braking zone carrying waaaaay too much speed until you get the nuts to lift off the pedal completely and get back on the brakes again, which is the only way to regain full braking power. The thought of the car wrecking us while trying to save us on the track was enough for me to switch back out of it. The whole issue has been discussed at great length on C7 forums with GM engineers saying yes it happens and no they can’t and won’t do anything to change it, it’s too woven in to the traction system to defeat they say. Very long explanation I know, but if you are an advanced driver that really pushes your car on track it’s seriosuly worth investigating before you buy a C7. For most of the guys at track days that are 7-8/10ths driving it out there, they’ll never engage it and the car is fine (for them). I was lucky and 6 months after I bought the Grand Sport I was able to sell it for $1,200 less than I paid for it, so away it went and I immediately purchased another (‘18) 1LE to finish the remainder of last season.

While I'm no where near 10/10th I do look forward to being at that level maybe one day. Many thanks for the detailed explanation. Specially those %'s are actually very eye opening points, very very valid. GM did so good with this car its crazy.

Once again, GLWS.

[locktyght]

Excellent deal here!

[5senna5]

Originally Posted by locktyght

Excellent deal here!

Just to add a note to potential buyers, the spacers and longer studs should not be needed with a 285 tire, I have Apex 19x10 et25s with 285's on my car with zero issues. But its nice to have the gear if you want to run a beefier rubber.

Thanks!
Your 19s may clear ok in an ET25, but with 18s being a 1/2” shorter on the top they don’t clear the strut without spacers. I chose 18s for the purpose of mainly running scrubbed slicks (19” quailty used slicks are in very short supply) and there are a number of fast DOTs in 18 that are inexpensive as well.

[locktyght]

Originally Posted by 5senna5

Thanks!
Your 19s may clear ok in an ET25, but with 18s being a 1/2” shorter on the top they don’t clear the strut without spacers. I chose 18s for the purpose of mainly running scrubbed slicks (19” quailty used slicks are in very short supply) and there are a number of fast DOTs in 18 that are inexpensive as well.

Really, ok, learned something new, I thought I had read a few users here running the 18's without issue on a +25 backspace.

Ill edit accordingly.

[5senna5]

Originally Posted by locktyght

Really, ok, learned something new, I thought I had read a few users here running the 18's without issue on a +25 backspace.

Ill edit accordingly.

I should clarify, if you’re running camber plates for track camber change then you may be able to, but if you’re maxed out (2.7 on my car) with just the bottom bolts, then strut angle is such that clearance is an issue.

[5senna5]

Sold!

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by locktyght

Really, ok, learned something new, I thought I had read a few users here running the 18's without issue on a +25 backspace.

Ill edit accordingly.

18" ET 25 will need at least a 5mm-6mm spacer if you are running track camber, if not bigger. With -3 camber running an 18x10.5 et22 i needed a 12mm spacer to comfortably clear the strut (granted i did slot out my camber holes for more negative camber). It's not necessarily the offset but the barrel of the 18" wheel is just too small for clearing that horrid angle of the strut. 19x10 ET 25 should have no problem clearing

[R3ctivision]

I bought these. I'll post an update on fitment on my car. I have Moreno camber plates so I may be able to get away with a track alignment and no spacer OR no grinding.

Thanks OP!