[Umbriel]

I am getting everything together for my Procharger install and I would much rather do a larger intank pump over a piggy back system but can't really find much on it. If no one makes one what would be the better piggy back system to get, one that uses a hobb switch or one that uses the map sensor to activate?

[grampa_ss]

Pretty sure most people just use the ZL1 LPFP.

[Umbriel]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

Pretty sure most people just use the ZL1 LPFP.

They do but I am looking at big horsepower numbers down the road. Instead of doing a piggy back system I'd rather run something intank larger than the LT4 pump if it is made.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Umbriel

They do but I am looking at big horsepower numbers down the road. Instead of doing a piggy back system I'd rather run something intank larger than the LT4 pump if it is made.

I think Lingenfelter offers a dual pump in-tank setup but you will probably have to call them as I can’t find it on their website.

[Umbriel]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I think Lingenfelter offers a dual pump in-tank setup but you will probably have to call them as I can’t find it on their website.

Thanks, I'll check into it.

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[KingLT1]

Fore Innovations has them along with Lingenfelter...I started a thread a while back discussing it. Definitely a solid solution but expensive.

DSX Aux setup is by far more economical and will support 900+ on E85.

[Umbriel]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Fore Innovations has them along with Lingenfelter...I started a thread a while back discussing it. Definitely a solid solution but expensive.

DSX Aux setup is by far more economical and will support 900+ on E85.

So the DSX activates using the MAP sensor and the SMG activates using boost/Hobbs switch. Which one of those two ways is the better/most reliable way? I do not want the pump to fail to activate under boost, I had that happen on my 4th gen with my meth kit.

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[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Umbriel

I am getting everything together for my Procharger install and I would much rather do a larger intank pump over a piggy back system but can't really find much on it. If no one makes one what would be the better piggy back system to get, one that uses a hobb switch or one that uses the map sensor to activate?

We offer a system from Fore innovations twin in tank pump but you will still find the limit of the LT4 high side pretty quick with current supercharger offernings.

Feel free to call to discuss. 203-753-7223

Ted.

[Umbriel]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

We offer a system from Fore innovations twin in tank pump but you will still find the limit of the LT4 high side pretty quick with current supercharger offernings.



Feel free to call to discuss. 203-753-7223



Ted.

My goal is to get to 700-750 on the stock bottom end and then forge the bottom end and go to either port injection or the bigger DI injectors.

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[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Umbriel

So the DSX activates using the MAP sensor and the SMG activates using boost/Hobbs switch. Which one of those two ways is the better/most reliable way? I do not want the pump to fail to activate under boost, I had that happen on my 4th gen with my meth kit.

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A local shop in my area likes the Hobbs switch setup better. They tried Map controller and experienced a lean spike on activation that they couldn't get rid of. I am not claiming everybody has ran into that issue. Something might not of been calibrated correctly, but they had no issues with the Hobbs activation. They're "Preferred" method is a Fore innovations setup with return line and regulator. They were trying to sell me that setup for 4500.00 installed and I declined. Did the LT4 in-tank and JMS instead.

[Umbriel]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

A local shop in my area likes the Hobbs switch setup better. They tried Map controller and experienced a lean spike on activation that they couldn't get rid of. I am not claiming everybody has ran into that issue. Something might not of been calibrated correctly, but they had no issues with the Hobbs activation. They're "Preferred" method is a Fore innovations setup with return line and regulator.

Yeah I would MUCH rather use a larger in tank or two in tanks over a piggy back that is triggered by something. After my meth kit failed and took out a motor I don't want to go down that path again. I'll look into the Fore set up a and talk with Ted at Jannetty and see what I can do. Thanks.

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[oldman]

Dave at DSX can set the activation to any boost level. I started out at 4 or 5 PSI (low boost) but was finding the low fuel pressure side too low (stock SS in-tank pump). Dave sent me one that hits at 1 PSI of boost... no issue now. I highly recommend the DSX solution. While I like the twin intake but it is OMG expensive...... The DSX kit you could go for a bigger pump if you want to support ANY fuel needs… The only mod I did to the DSX setup was to install a LED on the hot side of the pump so I know it is on...

I don't see anything wrong with the hobs switch either. I always run a relay with my Hobbs as IMO the fuel pump amp draw sooner or later will acr-out the Hobbs, I would rather have the Hobbs trigger a relay (20 amp). The DSX driver is supposedly good for just about any pump you want and it is solid state so it should out last the car. Power transistor technology has come a LONG way in 40 years. I still remember the first transistor ignition boxes getting hot and bleeding all their goo down the firewall.... typical of every car. Once the magic smoke left the unit, it stopped working and you had to send it back to the smoke injection factory for a rebuild...


If I was running a no-holds bar setup I'd do a DSX but plumb the pump exit side all the way into the back side of the High Fuel Pump. Not sure at what power level that would be needed...but above 99% of us here.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Umbriel

Yeah I would MUCH rather use a larger in tank or two in tanks over a piggy back that is triggered by something. After my meth kit failed and took out a motor I don't want to go down that path again. I'll look into the Fore set up a and talk with Ted at Jannetty and see what I can do. Thanks.

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Modern variable voltage pumps last so much longer than the 80s and 90s constant voltage pumps. So IMO all pumps that will last a long time in a daily driver will need some sort of trigger and / or a variable voltage setup. A full build I can see somebody driving a constant 12 to 17 volts to the pump, no triggers. But for everyone else, you can't get away from some trigger and / or variable voltage. Have faith in the force.

So even a no-holds bar two pump plant will IMO need at least one (use the factory pump driver for one of the pumps) and probably two after market voltage boosters (one for each pump).

[Umbriel]

Originally Posted by oldman

Modern variable voltage pumps last so much longer than the 80s and 90s constant voltage pumps. So IMO all pumps that will last a long time in a daily driver will need some sort of trigger and / or a variable voltage setup. A full build I can see somebody driving a constant 12 to 17 volts to the pump, no triggers. But for everyone else, you can't get away from some trigger and / or variable voltage. Have faith in the force.

So even a no-holds bar two pump plant will IMO need at least one (use the factory pump driver for one of the pumps) and probably two after market voltage boosters (one for each pump).

I ran 2 walbro 450 pumps in my 1100 HP turbo 4th gen and both pumps ran all of the time. I was hoping I could run a similar set up but it doesn't seem to exist so I'll probably have to go to an auxiliary pump with a Hobbs switch.

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