[TrackClub]

I would do 3 tests (ideally on track to replicate Gs):

1) run your stockers without TPMS and see if all is good.
If yes, TPMS play *no* role. If issues:
2) repeat the above with TPMS. If all ok then the TPMS does play a role. If issues then they are unrelated to wheels.
3) if #1 test is positive (no issues), run 18s without TPMS.
If issues, then it is a wheel size.

Note: with each test wait for the system to recalibrate TPMS (on or off).

[TrackClub]

Update to the above: given Provoste's comment re PTMS:

1. Put PTMS on stockers and run the car in complete stock form. If no issues then all is well. If issues then it is not the wheels, nor PTMS. Alternatively simply run it without PTMS on a track.

2. If the above is successful (no issues), run 18s without PTMS. If issues return it is the wheels.

[Black E]

In my C6 zr1 (I know kinda old at thins point lol) if the car has TPMS sensors and 1 fails the car will not allow PTM to be engaged and it limits the max speed to like 98mph.
I guess it thinks it may have a flat so it a safety feature. Also, with all TPMS removed, all systems work normal, just throws the TPMS light.

Maybe the camaro does something similar?

[rotis]

You must have all 4 sensors recognized or 0 sensors recognized. Anything in between is a fault and it will not let you disable any nannies. This is already known about the 6th gen.

[TrackClub]

It seems that there is a lot more going on here than nannies not being allowed to be disabled.
Provoste ran the fastest posted lap at Mid O in Touring - at least according to PDR

In either case, the easiest way to eliminate TPMS fault and/or wheel OD as culprits - is to run stockers and 18s back to back without the sensors (after properly recalibrating the car for no TPMS).

In any case, id go thru this easy process of elimination to ensure there is no short anywhere and to rule out elsd failing.

[mt.nichols]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

I tried the Nankang AR-1's and they were GREAT.

So riddle me this fella's.

I just drove around for some time with stock wheels and tires and after a while, I really did not notice the car acting funny at all. I attempted a few pulls entering the freeway as safely as possible and it appeared to pull strong to redline.

The only change between that 4th session of the day (with stock wheels) and my drive just now is the car finally registered it had no TPMS. Prior to that, it still thought a wheel was on the car that it wasn't.

So, the issue was either related to 1. the wheel size, 2. TPMS plays more of a factor than we thought and it was throwing the car entirely out of whack, or 3. it takes a bit of hard use for the issue to show.

I have a set of 18s that I am running 305/680/18 and 315/680/18.
The 18s are 0.57" (2.2%) taller than factory in the front, and 0.07" (0.3%) taller in the rear.
I currently do NOT have TPMS sensors installed on the 18s.

I'm not experiencing the crazy issues you describe, but TCS has been much more invasive (read: as soon as I touch the gas pedal, it comes on) even with PTM in Race.

See attached image; I pulled the PDR data and noticed there was a ~2 mph difference in wheel speed (front vs. rear) on the straight. I compared this with the original SuperCar 3Rs and found it to be 0.75 mph. It's hard to say if this is of any significance without knowing where the car begins to intervene. My next step is to try running with everything off.

[Nick S]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

Posting this here too, apparent electrical issue on ZL1 1LE caused eLSD malfunction and "limp mode" today while on track. This is new to me, haven't read anything on the internet of people with similar symptoms. Full summary and TLDR bellow.

Car has 6k miles and is trailered to and from the track, not street driven. FYI.

TLDR: Car would do one wheel burnouts, morphed into the car sputtering through the RPM range (not actually sputtering, but it was hesitating and gaining RPM's slowly before holding steady at around 5,500 and not going anywhere). Felt noticeable down on power, car would fall flat on its face during higher RPM's. No CEL's, No reduced power warning. Thoughts?

Full Summary: I ran the car two weeks ago at Laguna Seca without issue, today was day 1 of 2 at Sonoma. I ran for the first time a 315/30/18 tire on all four corners (using 18x11/12 wheels, not true square) in an effort to find a solid tire for this car that last a bit longer.

Within the first lap, the car would only give full power with zero steering angle. If I was mid-turn or exiting, it would just hold steady until I was pointed straight, then would come on power. I thought I had mistakingly exited out of PTM:Race, it was as if I had full assist on in wet/ice mode. Turned TC/ST fully off and realized why the TC was engaging so much, the eLSD appeared to not be working. Anytime the inside wheel was unloaded I would get massive wheel spin. I tried to push it exiting turn 11 just to see what would happen and I got a huge smoking one wheel burn out down the straight. That's not right.

So what happened? I used an OD2 reader to clear an exhaust code (02 sensors, probably from my cat-back) prior to going out. I then plugged my AIM SOLO2 DL into the OBD port to pull data and went out for my first session.

1. Did my SOLO DL trip out the electrical system somehow and cause the eLSD issues? (Ive heard of this)

2. Did the change to a square 315/30/18 put the cars calibrations out of its % variance and trip out the e-diff?

So moving on to the remaining sessions.

Second Session: First step was to pull the battery cable and let it sit for 10 minutes. Continued to use the SOLO DL and still had the same problems. Absolutely no power with any sort of steering angle, power came on decently strong when pointed straight. No Change.

Third session: Reset battery once again, and this time I ran without my SOLO DL. NO change. Ok, so maybe it is not related to the OBD port and it has to do with the wheels.

Fourth session: I reset the battery and put on my stock wheels and tires. Power was able to be applied during corners now and I didn't appear to have any one-wheel burnouts anymore, except, well, I also didn't seem to have any power. Exiting onto the front straight in second gear it would slowly climb through the RPM's until 3rd and 4th. It would climb the RPM's but a hair more slowly, hesitation was more apparent near redline in 3rd. A few turns later exiting 6 in 3rd gear (generally exited 3rd at 85, quickly hit limiter and on to 4th). Well I was flat, exiting around 75 and the car was taking forever to climb the RPM's, noticeable enough, it hesitated and sputtered around 5500 and would just ride there without reaching 6500. Upon upshift to 4th, the car would gain some power back and pull. This high RPM hesitation continued for the next few laps. Upshifting and bringing the RPM's down appeared to give some power back.

I pitted, checked temps, nothing in the red. No CEL's or warnings. I then floored it in 1st leaving the box and the car wouldn't even spin the tires. The car also just sounded.. "flat".

The car was driveable, and I could have stayed out there had I wanted to, but it was definitely having power issues. I don't quite know if this is what limp mode feels like or what. The only thing I could equate it to is the feeling when you are low on fuel and the car slightly hesitates as the fuel sloshes around.

The 18's have TPMS that was never reset, though they were set to this car the last time they were on the car and were actively showing temps. Stock wheels and tires have no TPMS, warning light had not activated yet during the fourth sessions.
Could a bad, slipping clutch be noticed by the ECM, causing the computer to pull power so I don't burn out the clutch?

I am at a loss. With no codes and no way to replicate on the street, I have a hard time believing any dealer will know what to do.

Anyone?

Were you using your Solo Data system everytime? Or did this happen during a session when you did not have the Solo Data system plugged into the car? If using the Solo data system every time, was the Solo data system plugged into your OBDII port before you started the car?
I have used an OBDII dongle device to pair with my phone and Track Addict and I have had issues in the past where when I start my car up and I left the dongle plugged into the OBDII port it would trigger all kinds of system errors. Service ABS, Service Stabilitrack, Service power steering, etc... I noticed the pattern after a few times of it happening so now I only plug in an OBDII device for data recording after I have started the car up first.

I'm not sure if this will help your issue or not but I thought I would mention it incase something small like this helps you avoid issues while on track.

[seanblurr]

I don't have the answers, I really don't know. I'm just trying to see patterns and throw out guesses.

regarding TPMS, two of my wheel sets have them, and the other two do not. I've had one go out, and the car stopped allowing me to enter PTM modes. I've tracked with none, and tracked with all working. So I know how the car works and reacts with those. I don't really think that was the issue, but I mentioned it anyways. The only "unknown" in there was that interim few miles before the car realized all four wheels had no TPMS.

Hearing that about the OBD sounds similar, maybe it was just a combination of things. Thanks for sharing. I will try to only plug it in when the car is running from now on.

Just to give you an indication of what I mean when I say the eLSD stopped working. Here is a clip exiting turn 11 at Sonoma. That rise in the RPM's is not me going anywhere, it is the inside (right) wheel spinning like mad with throttle application. You can't see it, but it left a single burn out and lots of smoke.

[rickybobby]

How did you mount your solo DL? I'm not quite liking the placement from my suction cup mount. Also, what software are you using to make the video and overlay? I've got about 20 years of videos and never have gotten around to making anything interesting to watch. haha.

[BlueinTN]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

Posting this here too, apparent electrical issue on ZL1 1LE caused eLSD malfunction and "limp mode" today while on track. This is new to me, haven't read anything on the internet of people with similar symptoms. Full summary and TLDR bellow.

Car has 6k miles and is trailered to and from the track, not street driven. FYI.

TLDR: Car would do one wheel burnouts, morphed into the car sputtering through the RPM range (not actually sputtering, but it was hesitating and gaining RPM's slowly before holding steady at around 5,500 and not going anywhere). Felt noticeable down on power, car would fall flat on its face during higher RPM's. No CEL's, No reduced power warning. Thoughts?

Full Summary: I ran the car two weeks ago at Laguna Seca without issue, today was day 1 of 2 at Sonoma. I ran for the first time a 315/30/18 tire on all four corners (using 18x11/12 wheels, not true square) in an effort to find a solid tire for this car that last a bit longer.

Within the first lap, the car would only give full power with zero steering angle. If I was mid-turn or exiting, it would just hold steady until I was pointed straight, then would come on power. I thought I had mistakingly exited out of PTM:Race, it was as if I had full assist on in wet/ice mode. Turned TC/ST fully off and realized why the TC was engaging so much, the eLSD appeared to not be working. Anytime the inside wheel was unloaded I would get massive wheel spin. I tried to push it exiting turn 11 just to see what would happen and I got a huge smoking one wheel burn out down the straight. That's not right.

So what happened? I used an OD2 reader to clear an exhaust code (02 sensors, probably from my cat-back) prior to going out. I then plugged my AIM SOLO2 DL into the OBD port to pull data and went out for my first session.

1. Did my SOLO DL trip out the electrical system somehow and cause the eLSD issues? (Ive heard of this)

2. Did the change to a square 315/30/18 put the cars calibrations out of its % variance and trip out the e-diff?

So moving on to the remaining sessions.

Second Session: First step was to pull the battery cable and let it sit for 10 minutes. Continued to use the SOLO DL and still had the same problems. Absolutely no power with any sort of steering angle, power came on decently strong when pointed straight. No Change.

Third session: Reset battery once again, and this time I ran without my SOLO DL. NO change. Ok, so maybe it is not related to the OBD port and it has to do with the wheels.

Fourth session: I reset the battery and put on my stock wheels and tires. Power was able to be applied during corners now and I didn't appear to have any one-wheel burnouts anymore, except, well, I also didn't seem to have any power. Exiting onto the front straight in second gear it would slowly climb through the RPM's until 3rd and 4th. It would climb the RPM's but a hair more slowly, hesitation was more apparent near redline in 3rd. A few turns later exiting 6 in 3rd gear (generally exited 3rd at 85, quickly hit limiter and on to 4th). Well I was flat, exiting around 75 and the car was taking forever to climb the RPM's, noticeable enough, it hesitated and sputtered around 5500 and would just ride there without reaching 6500. Upon upshift to 4th, the car would gain some power back and pull. This high RPM hesitation continued for the next few laps. Upshifting and bringing the RPM's down appeared to give some power back.

I pitted, checked temps, nothing in the red. No CEL's or warnings. I then floored it in 1st leaving the box and the car wouldn't even spin the tires. The car also just sounded.. "flat".

The car was driveable, and I could have stayed out there had I wanted to, but it was definitely having power issues. I don't quite know if this is what limp mode feels like or what. The only thing I could equate it to is the feeling when you are low on fuel and the car slightly hesitates as the fuel sloshes around.

The 18's have TPMS that was never reset, though they were set to this car the last time they were on the car and were actively showing temps. Stock wheels and tires have no TPMS, warning light had not activated yet during the fourth sessions.
Could a bad, slipping clutch be noticed by the ECM, causing the computer to pull power so I don't burn out the clutch?

I am at a loss. With no codes and no way to replicate on the street, I have a hard time believing any dealer will know what to do.

Anyone?

When you were swaping around tires did you maybe hit the computer by the pumpkin. I think its the Elsd computer and when I looked under my car I thought "that be a good way to mess something up".



I did not see a way to clear the computer with a floor jack straight from the rear bumber with out a few inches of wood or plastic under the pumpkin.

[ICTsccaCamaro]

I have ran all of these different tire sets on mine with no issues, also one of my sets of wheels does not have TPS.

305/30R19 front
325/30R19 rear

285/35R19 front
285/35R19 rear

305/30R19 front
305/30R19 rear

325/30R19 front
325/30R19 rear

305/30R19 front
355/30R19 rear

[juice3]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

Just to give you an indication of what I mean when I say the eLSD stopped working. Here is a clip exiting turn 11 at Sonoma. That rise in the RPM's is not me going anywhere, it is the inside (right) wheel spinning like mad with throttle application. You can't see it, but it left a single burn out and lots of smoke.
[]

Sean did you ever resolve this? My eLSD has just decided it won't do more than 2 laps anymore before the 1 tire fire.

[seanblurr]

I'm fairly certain it had to do with overall tire size and this car needing to be somewhere around a 1.8% split front to rear. With that said, others have successfully run square setups before without issue...