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Old 05-09-2019, 01:04 PM   #15
tecmec
 
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It's just the 1LE brakes.

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Old 05-16-2019, 02:46 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by tecmec View Post
I'm curious if this solves your issue. I had the same soft pedal issue after installing my GM big brake kit on my SS. I actually have the GM MDI interface, and so I have done a million ABS bleed cycles on the car. I was able to get a few small bubbles out, but have never been able to get the pedal feel to what I think it should be.

I didn't let the master run dry, so I'm not sure why it would have air in it. The brake line plumbing in these cars is funny though. The ABS module is above the passenger side wheel well, and we have lines running between there and the master, over the engine at the back of the firewall (if I'm remembering correctly). Those lines are a high point, and I imagine they would be a great place for air to collect, and would probably be almost impossible to evacuate. I was actually worried that if I disconnected the master, I'd just end up letting even more air into those lines, making things worse.

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there was some kinda small recall with FCA cars about air trapped in brake systems. I have a 2015 Jeep SRT and I never liked the brake feel of it.



The dealer said they had a special rig just for this and wanted to try it out on mine even since I didnt have the recall and I let them go ahead with it. I never saw what is was but I wonder if they were putting vacuum on the master cylinder cap somehow to help pull air out of the system.
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Old 03-13-2020, 12:36 PM   #17
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Sorry to bring up this old post. Has this been fixed? I am having a similar issue. I went to change out my brake fluid and negated to watch the level in the master cylinder. I have bled the brakes multiple times and multiple ways (motive, and pedal). The pedal seems to be inconsistent with a soft feel requiring different amounts of pedal travel to stop.
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Old 03-13-2020, 02:28 PM   #18
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As described in my older post, I got my pressure to be OK (not as bad as you describe) by using a pressure bleeder and using the ABS bleed procedure.

However, it's still not as good as I want it to be, so I am planning on doing a bench bleed soon. I have the parts, I'm just waiting for time to get around to it.
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Old 03-13-2020, 03:15 PM   #19
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Thanks. I've seen people doing a master cylinder bleed by running a line from the caliper back to the master cylinder. This may be my last effort before bringing it to the dealer, I have an inspection due anyway.
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Old 03-14-2020, 01:46 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by silkrckt View Post
Thanks. I've seen people doing a master cylinder bleed by running a line from the caliper back to the master cylinder. This may be my last effort before bringing it to the dealer, I have an inspection due anyway.
This method won't be any more effective than regularly bleeding the car. ABS module can still catch any air coming out of the master cylinder, and the fact that you're pushing fluid through the whole system might make the flow slow enough that it won't actually move the bubbles out of the MC. At the very least I'd suggest removing the brake lines from the MC and using hoses that go from the MC outlets back to the reservoir. If not, remove the MC from the car and do a full bench bleed. After that, still will want to run the ABS bleed to get any residual air out. Unfortunately, it doesn't take much air to kill the pedal feel and it can be a PITA to get out if it's trapped in the MC or ABS module.
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Old 03-14-2020, 10:29 PM   #21
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To add a little bit to the "flow slow enough that it won't move the bubbles" comment in the previous reply to this thread: I had a similar thought. The motive cap simply can't hold enough pressure in our reservoirs. It can't get even close to the pressure recommended in the service manual. In an attempt to address this I have purchased a different cap that is more similar to the "real" tool that is referenced in the service manuals. I bought: https://www.speedibleed.com/c600-gm-...r-adapter.html

Now, I haven't actually tried it yet, but I'm hopeful that this, in combination with a bench bleed, will help me actually remove the air from my system.
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Old Yesterday, 10:34 AM   #22
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Exactly the same issue here. Are there instructions on how to bleed the ABS and the master cylinder anywhere? What is the tool needed for the ABS bleed?
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Old Yesterday, 11:20 AM   #23
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Exactly the same issue here. Are there instructions on how to bleed the ABS and the master cylinder anywhere? What is the tool needed for the ABS bleed?
The master cylinder bleed process is listed in this thread already. For ABS you'll need access to GM's service bleed tools or a scanner that has that functionality. Since those are not necessarily the easiest to come by, you'll either have to take it to a dealer/shop or bleed the brakes the best that you can, go find a dirt/gravel road and do some ABS stops, then bleed the brakes by hand again.
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Old Yesterday, 05:18 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
The master cylinder bleed process is listed in this thread already. For ABS you'll need access to GM's service bleed tools or a scanner that has that functionality. Since those are not necessarily the easiest to come by, you'll either have to take it to a dealer/shop or bleed the brakes the best that you can, go find a dirt/gravel road and do some ABS stops, then bleed the brakes by hand again.
I can cycle the ABS no problem, just have to come to me, with scan tool you can cycle all 4 wheels individually one at a time. when i installed my line loc had the same problem everyone else had, scan tool fixed everything. GM MDI. Tech 2 only goes to 2014 year vehicles.
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Old Yesterday, 10:46 PM   #25
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Is there a proven recommended scan tool for the home user that is affordable?
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Old Today, 06:35 AM   #26
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Is there a proven recommended scan tool for the home user that is affordable?
only the GM MDI, you can get a used one for about a grand+ GM subscription $599 or china clone for about $200+ .
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