VVT/DOD Delete questions - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Demojr90 · 05-22-2017, 10:57 AM

Finally got everything back together and good to go on my L99 to Ls3 conversion, installed a blower cam, I am planning on going LSA S/C next year. Anyway, so in the process of changing everything over I triple check EVERYTHING. I did not use a chaser bolt for the head bolts and was wondering if it it something I should be concerned with. I cleaned out every hole with lots of brake clean, alcohol, and finally swabbed the threads with Q-tips and made sure there was not a single thing in the bottom of the bolt holes. I triple checked the torque and checked the torque again the next day before continuing with the build. Should be fine right? Also I was wondering if anyone has any tricks for tightening down the crank bolt? Last but not least my tuner told me he had to delete vvt before I could start it, he is booked so I have to wait until next week, understandable but I am so fidgety and dying to here it run or to turn the starter over a couple times just to check clearances. Basically I am trying to make sure it will run before I wait a week and discover something is messed up and then have to fix something when I had the time to do it this week. So anyway, is it possible to start the motor without damaging anything or even just turn it over a couple times to check for clearance issues without hurting anything? Also after start up should I go back through and re-torque everything after running?

Demojr90 · 05-22-2017, 01:02 PM

Nobody?

hammdo · 05-22-2017, 01:18 PM

TTY bolts are good as they are, no re torque. If no VVT, gotta wait for the tune.

You may be fine with not chasing the head bolt holes, but, from my personal experience, the factory TTY bolt do leave residue:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=86

Timing cover install with balancer:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=129
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=132

Best not to take shortcuts, but these are pretty resilient engines.

My build thread shows all I did when I did the heads, cam, LSA conversion...

-Don

Demojr90 · 05-22-2017, 02:16 PM

Thanks for the info, I went with ARP head bolts and used their lubricant. It just sucks waiting to hear it start, everything else went as planned. Ill be looking at your build thread shortly lol idk, I didnt have a chaser bolt or a grinder to make one so I usrd a regular old head bolt and drove it in and out a couple times then cleaned up all the holes. My main concern now is getting that crank bolt torqued properly, some people say they could only get it to like 80 degrees and just left it there....

hammdo · 05-22-2017, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Demojr90

Thanks for the info, I went with ARP head bolts and used their lubricant. It just sucks waiting to hear it start, everything else went as planned. Ill be looking at your build thread shortly lol idk, I didnt have a chaser bolt or a grinder to make one so I usrd a regular old head bolt and drove it in and out a couple times then cleaned up all the holes. My main concern now is getting that crank bolt torqued properly, some people say they could only get it to like 80 degrees and just left it there....

Flywheel holder and you can do it. I was able to torque it right, you just need to make sure you have the range to pull the torque wrench. I have a digital torque wrench so that helped - you could go ARP on that bolt too...

If you chased a cleaned threaded bolt, that would help for sure. Sounds like you should have it. ARPs are the way to go, my forged will be all ARPs

-Don

Abelardoo_12 · 05-22-2017, 02:57 PM

Im in the same boat as you, I finished my cam job last friday and I'm just waiting anxiously on that email from my tuner so I can start her up. And for the crank bolt what I did was get on top of the car and used my foot to get it to turn those last degrees needed, worked perfectly fine

InFiD3ViL · 05-22-2017, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abelardoo_12

Im in the same boat as you, I finished my cam job last friday and I'm just waiting anxiously on that email from my tuner so I can start her up. And for the crank bolt what I did was get on top of the car and used my foot to get it to turn those last degrees needed, worked perfectly fine

Sometimes you have to get creative to get the job done!

Demojr90 · 05-22-2017, 03:12 PM

My problem is I cant get the engine to hold still while I am turning the crank bolt, it just starts moving.

hammdo · 05-22-2017, 03:16 PM

Flywheel holder is the ticket...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-2800-L...sAAOSwuLZY2~PB

-Don

Demojr90 · 05-22-2017, 03:20 PM

Guessing that goes where the starter goes?

Abelardoo_12 · 05-22-2017, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Demojr90

Guessing that goes where the starter goes?

Yes. You remove the starter and bolt this up and it'll hold it. Ive heard of others using a long screw driver or a pry bar to hold the flywheel but im not so sure about that method

hammdo · 05-22-2017, 09:06 PM

Do the flywheel holder, dropping the starter takes about 30 minutes, a bit longer with headers, disconnect the battery ;o)

-Don

QUICRNU · 05-23-2017, 04:41 PM

Def. Use flywheel holder.....its alot quicker and cheaper than replacing the flywheel.

I feel your pain waiting for startup!! I turned mine over by hand before I got the tune.....hang in there!

Did you change oil pumps? Make sure you prime the oil pump!

Demojr90 · 05-25-2017, 09:17 PM

I did change oil pumps but did not prime it, I was planning on spinning the engine over a few times withiut spark plugs plugged in to get everything primed.....bad idea? I would just prime it but the alternator is in the way of the plug, so i figured Id just turn it over a few times to get the oil circulating.

05-22-2017, 10:57 AM	#1
Demojr90 Drives: 2016 2ss Track Attack Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: St. Louis Posts: 29	VVT/DOD Delete questions Finally got everything back together and good to go on my L99 to Ls3 conversion, installed a blower cam, I am planning on going LSA S/C next year. Anyway, so in the process of changing everything over I triple check EVERYTHING. I did not use a chaser bolt for the head bolts and was wondering if it it something I should be concerned with. I cleaned out every hole with lots of brake clean, alcohol, and finally swabbed the threads with Q-tips and made sure there was not a single thing in the bottom of the bolt holes. I triple checked the torque and checked the torque again the next day before continuing with the build. Should be fine right? Also I was wondering if anyone has any tricks for tightening down the crank bolt? Last but not least my tuner told me he had to delete vvt before I could start it, he is booked so I have to wait until next week, understandable but I am so fidgety and dying to here it run or to turn the starter over a couple times just to check clearances. Basically I am trying to make sure it will run before I wait a week and discover something is messed up and then have to fix something when I had the time to do it this week. So anyway, is it possible to start the motor without damaging anything or even just turn it over a couple times to check for clearance issues without hurting anything? Also after start up should I go back through and re-torque everything after running?

05-22-2017, 01:18 PM	#3
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	TTY bolts are good as they are, no re torque. If no VVT, gotta wait for the tune. You may be fine with not chasing the head bolt holes, but, from my personal experience, the factory TTY bolt do leave residue: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=86 Timing cover install with balancer: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=129 http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=132 Best not to take shortcuts, but these are pretty resilient engines. My build thread shows all I did when I did the heads, cam, LSA conversion... -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 Last edited by hammdo; 05-22-2017 at 03:14 PM.

05-22-2017, 03:16 PM	#9
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	Flywheel holder is the ticket... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-2800-L...sAAOSwuLZY2~PB -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

05-22-2017, 09:06 PM	#12
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	Do the flywheel holder, dropping the starter takes about 30 minutes, a bit longer with headers, disconnect the battery ;o) -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

05-23-2017, 04:41 PM	#13
QUICRNU Drives: Z06 wannabe Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Daytona Beach, FL Posts: 1,200	Def. Use flywheel holder.....its alot quicker and cheaper than replacing the flywheel. I feel your pain waiting for startup!! I turned mine over by hand before I got the tune.....hang in there! Did you change oil pumps? Make sure you prime the oil pump! __________________ Apex Focused

05-22-2017, 01:02 PM	#2
Demojr90 Drives: 2016 2ss Track Attack Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: St. Louis Posts: 29	Nobody?

05-22-2017, 02:16 PM	#4
Demojr90 Drives: 2016 2ss Track Attack Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: St. Louis Posts: 29	Thanks for the info, I went with ARP head bolts and used their lubricant. It just sucks waiting to hear it start, everything else went as planned. Ill be looking at your build thread shortly lol idk, I didnt have a chaser bolt or a grinder to make one so I usrd a regular old head bolt and drove it in and out a couple times then cleaned up all the holes. My main concern now is getting that crank bolt torqued properly, some people say they could only get it to like 80 degrees and just left it there....

05-22-2017, 02:57 PM	#6
Abelardoo_12 Drives: 2011 camaro ss convertible Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Houston, tx Posts: 421	Im in the same boat as you, I finished my cam job last friday and I'm just waiting anxiously on that email from my tuner so I can start her up. And for the crank bolt what I did was get on top of the car and used my foot to get it to turn those last degrees needed, worked perfectly fine

05-22-2017, 03:12 PM	#8
Demojr90 Drives: 2016 2ss Track Attack Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: St. Louis Posts: 29	My problem is I cant get the engine to hold still while I am turning the crank bolt, it just starts moving.

05-22-2017, 03:20 PM	#10
Demojr90 Drives: 2016 2ss Track Attack Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: St. Louis Posts: 29	Guessing that goes where the starter goes?

05-25-2017, 09:17 PM	#14
Demojr90 Drives: 2016 2ss Track Attack Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: St. Louis Posts: 29	I did change oil pumps but did not prime it, I was planning on spinning the engine over a few times withiut spark plugs plugged in to get everything primed.....bad idea? I would just prime it but the alternator is in the way of the plug, so i figured Id just turn it over a few times to get the oil circulating.