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Old 10-13-2018, 11:34 AM   #15
misterjaayy
 
Drives: 2019 CTS-V
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorite18 View Post
Hey all, I'm new to this but need some advice. I have a 2018 1SS that I want to put a supercharger on. I want to go with the roots type so I have the power down low also. So my question is can anyone give me any suggestions as to what brand, I am seeing at least 3 available, wipple, edelbrock, and magnusun. I most likely spelled them wrong but you get the One other thing will my Rot-Fab intake mount to it? Thanks for the help!
First and foremost as other have mentioned go to the FI section of the forum. It has a ton of info on all these setups. Or you could use the search function.

I personally run the LT4 blower. It is just a good as any of the set ups you listed if you want to stay at around 600-650whp and its a bargain compared the big brands. If you are going to go any higher than 650 or 700whp, I would definitely go Maggie. Its a bigger blower for more head room and helps with overheating. It all depends on your goals.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mariojmoe View Post
Don't go over 600 rwhp with any blower bc pistons are maxed out at that point on lt1. Save ur $ and buy a used lt4 blower off here or craigslist for 1800, spend another 1200 for misc parts to make it work , buy some texas speed headers and a tune and you are at 600 rwhp safely under 5k max (installed and tuned)
Never work in absolutes. Lots of respected shop on here build 600+whp blown set ups with stock internals and they DD great. Tuning and fuel are key. If you are going to road course or texas mile stock internals, then yes, you would probably need to upgrade pistons and rods. Again it all depends on goals and what you are using your car for. DD with occasional pulls is safe at that level. Are there the outliers that blow? Sure. But they are the exception not the rule.

Dont speed false information on here dude. You're doom and gloom info is going up some of the most respected shops in the country.
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Old 10-13-2018, 01:42 PM   #16
drperry
 
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With 11.5:1 compression, you don't want to run more than 5 - 7lbs of boost, on stock rods/pistons... For daily driven reliability. Unless you have a really really good tuner.

Which is why the general accepted "limit" is the 600 - 650 mark, because not everyone has access to an in person tuner, which is pretty much essential for optimal tuning/operation above that level of boost.

7 PSI is roughly 682HP at the crank... The basic estimation math is double your power every 14lbs of boost.

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Old 10-13-2018, 05:28 PM   #17
mariojmoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drperry View Post
With 11.5:1 compression, you don't want to run more than 5 - 7lbs of boost, on stock rods/pistons... For daily driven reliability. Unless you have a really really good tuner.

Which is why the general accepted "limit" is the 600 - 650 mark, because not everyone has access to an in person tuner, which is pretty much essential for optimal tuning/operation above that level of boost.

7 PSI is roughly 682HP at the crank... The basic estimation math is double your power every 14lbs of boost.

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You my friend get it. I work at a very highly respected well known performance shop in Houston tx (street racing capitol as well as the best known tuners). It's funny how some people are so quick to argue and disagree with facts that I personally see on a semi regular basis. I have stories for days on out with customers who didn't wanna forge their internals on 700+ hp builds and ended up with catastrophic results (not right away) but what do I know?
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:45 AM   #18
laynlo15
 
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No one on this forum probably has more runs on their Camaro then me, somewhere between 180 and 200, I have 182 time slips and I know I've lost a few. I've only put 1000 miles on my car over the last 2 years and that was at about 600 rwhp. I have over 140 passes under boost, and probably the last 60 have been over 16 lbs making about 713 at the wheels, in the spring it pushed the front seal out, I replaced it with the LS3 seal. Put a bunch of passes on it after that and at the Camaro Fest I had a leak out of the rear seal. Had one more race I had already planned and the rear seal finally gave way and that was it. Scoped each cylinder, ran compression on all of them and had #1 cylinder at 149 and #8 at 85. Pulled the motor out and both had broken ring lands. So short story is that you probably need to stay in the 600 to 625 range unless you do have at least a good drop in piston. I'm currently doing a Manley piston and rod setup on the stock crank. So if you push it hard enough like I did even running race gas and meth/water it can happen and it did to me. So be prepared to spend 7k or more for a rebuild if you switch the cam and get rid of dod with all the other shit, bearing, etc. It ain't cheap, so keep it at a reasonable manageable hp and have fun.
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2022 Lt1 6.2 A10, Maggie 2300, THPSI Port Inj/10 rib, Rotofab, E, Nickey, SCOL, Griptech, RC Bandits, Hoosiers/MT 9.80@142.96 1.44 60ft, 6.34@112 707/669 RWHP/TRQ. 16SS Maggie 2650 9.41@147 1.35 60ft, 5.99@119. 16 C7 A8 10.90@128 Bolt on stuff
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Old 10-14-2018, 08:54 AM   #19
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Is there a way to decrease the heat soak on the lt4 blower?
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:52 AM   #20
laynlo15
 
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Maybe if you ran an Ice Box in the trunk. You just can't get big enough intercooler bricks in the smaller SC's. I've never seen one of the lt4 SCs with the lid off, but they are considerably smaller then my Maggie.
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2022 Lt1 6.2 A10, Maggie 2300, THPSI Port Inj/10 rib, Rotofab, E, Nickey, SCOL, Griptech, RC Bandits, Hoosiers/MT 9.80@142.96 1.44 60ft, 6.34@112 707/669 RWHP/TRQ. 16SS Maggie 2650 9.41@147 1.35 60ft, 5.99@119. 16 C7 A8 10.90@128 Bolt on stuff

Last edited by laynlo15; 10-14-2018 at 11:03 AM.
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