[kropscamaro16]

he said should be available next month $439 for coilover option a little more for oem strut setup

[Scargoes]

I really liked the Moreno design, wish I had been able to get a set when they were available.

[kropscamaro16]

not much difference other than those i believe you can lower by 1/2" in front i believe


vorshlag makes good parts and terry is a good guy ill definately be getting a set

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

We are not done in any we on the plates, with that said we are working on a better way and for less $ think ZL1LE.

If they allow for quick camber change from track setting to daily driver street setting then I’m definitely in!

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by Scargoes

I really liked the Moreno design, wish I had been able to get a set when they were available.

Yeah but those didn’t allow for quick camber change.
I think that’s a major draw back...

But I like being able to lower the car 1/2” without changing the springs!

[Chris V]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

Yeah but those didn’t allow for quick camber change.
I think that’s a major draw back...

But I like being able to lower the car 1/2” without changing the springs!

If you change the camber you’ll have to adjust the toe. Toe is way harder on tires than camber is. (There’s no such thing as a quick camber change)

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by Chris V

If you change the camber you’ll have to adjust the toe. Toe is way harder on tires than camber is. (There’s no such thing as a quick camber change)

This seems quick to me...


ADJUSTABLE FRONT STRUTS
The front strut top mount of Camaro ZL1 with the 1LE Performance Package can be positioned two ways. The original setting
is in the street position, but it can be turned 180
°
to the track position for additional negative camber on the front. Rotating the
front strut top mount will yield a change in front camber of approximately 1.7
°
.
To adjust the position:
1.
Raise the vehicle so the tires are slightly off the ground.
2.
From the bottom side of the strut top mount, remove the Allen bolt that secures the top mount alignment pin to the top mount.
3.
Remove the three strut mount bolts and the alignment pin.
4.
Using the Hex feature on the top of the mount, turn the top mount 180° until the TRACK CAMBER text is visible and the second
set of top mount holes aligns with the strut tower holes.
5.
Reinstall the top mount bolts and torque to 21.4 lb.-ft. (29 N•m).
6.
Keep the top mount alignment pin and bolt for reinstallation when the struts are returned to the street position following
the track event.
7.
Verify and adjust the vehicle alignment specifications to optimize vehicle performance for the track event.
8.
Verify and readjust the vehicle alignment as needed following the track event.

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

This seems quick to me...


ADJUSTABLE FRONT STRUTS
The front strut top mount of Camaro ZL1 with the 1LE Performance Package can be positioned two ways. The original setting
is in the street position, but it can be turned 180
°
to the track position for additional negative camber on the front. Rotating the
front strut top mount will yield a change in front camber of approximately 1.7
°
.
To adjust the position:
1.
Raise the vehicle so the tires are slightly off the ground.
2.
From the bottom side of the strut top mount, remove the Allen bolt that secures the top mount alignment pin to the top mount.
3.
Remove the three strut mount bolts and the alignment pin.
4.
Using the Hex feature on the top of the mount, turn the top mount 180° until the TRACK CAMBER text is visible and the second
set of top mount holes aligns with the strut tower holes.
5.
Reinstall the top mount bolts and torque to 21.4 lb.-ft. (29 N•m).
6.
Keep the top mount alignment pin and bolt for reinstallation when the struts are returned to the street position following
the track event.
7.
Verify and adjust the vehicle alignment specifications to optimize vehicle performance for the track event.
8.
Verify and readjust the vehicle alignment as needed following the track event.

It’s 7-8 that’s not so quick. I think the camber adjustment for these camber plates are pretty neat (just installed DSSV on my ss1LE) however when it’s adjisted toe needs to be looked at too. Could be costly if you need to consistently get alignments.

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by Chris V

If you change the camber you’ll have to adjust the toe. Toe is way harder on tires than camber is. (There’s no such thing as a quick camber change)

No such thing as “quick” or “quicker”?
I’m trying to find a camber plate that will allow for faster adjustment of camber for my ZL1 so I can go from street alignment to track alignment and back again before and after a track day.

My understanding is that the camber plates on the FEA suspension of the ZLE are a lot quicker and easier to adjust the camber with than camber plates like the Moreno camber plates for the FE4 suspension.

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by Move_Over

It’s 7-8 that’s not so quick. I think the camber adjustment for these camber plates are pretty neat (just installed DSSV on my ss1LE) however when it’s adjisted toe needs to be looked at too. Could be costly if you need to consistently get alignments.

So Would you say the camber adjustment with the DSSV is quicker than before you had the DSSV?
If so, how much?

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Chris V

If you change the camber you’ll have to adjust the toe. Toe is way harder on tires than camber is. (There’s no such thing as a quick camber change)

Maybe not, if you're running a street setting that's slightly 'toe-in' and the change from street camber to track camber doesn't move the toe 'out' too fast.

One trick to making quick camber changes that are accurate and repeatable is to work up a gauge-block or similar arrangement for both the street and track settings once you've found what the best settings for those uses are.


Norm

[Chris V]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

No such thing as “quick” or “quicker”?
I’m trying to find a camber plate that will allow for faster adjustment of camber for my ZL1 so I can go from street alignment to track alignment and back again before and after a track day.

My understanding is that the camber plates on the FEA suspension of the ZLE are a lot quicker and easier to adjust the camber with than camber plates like the Moreno camber plates for the FE4 suspension.

There really isn't any point to "quick change" for back and forth settings. Set the alignment and leave it. If you're only doing track stuff once a year, give yourself a decent amount of camber (-2.5 degrees is plenty to protect tires) and go for that.

If you're tracking all the time, drive around with a track alignment. My car is basically used for track stuff only, but with One Lap there are long transits. I sit at -3.5 degrees camber and no toe in the front. The tires wear fine.

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

So Would you say the camber adjustment with the DSSV is quicker than before you had the DSSV?
If so, how much?

Well with MRC there's really only one place to adjust camber which is at the strut knuckle. You adjust the camber bolts, adjust toe and you're set. With the DSSV you are now introducing camber adjustment at the top of the strut tower, with still the same type of adjustment at the knuckle. It's really a neat and quick way of doing it as essentially you spin the camber plate 180 degrees for +/-1.7 degrees worth of camber, there's not really any adjustment at the top hat other than those two settings (street and track), the fine tuning is at the knuckle. I don't really drive the car too much on the street so mine will be staying in the track position.

With the vorshlag plates (and moreno, gc etc..) the camber adjusts on a slide, not a single setting so there is more adjustment and there's also room for error. What i have done in the past with vorshlag plates is essentially two alignments and mark on the slider S and T settings so you know where to land that..

What NORM says below is true. Most guys (including myself) don't really do their own alignments. I have in the past, while it's super educational, setting up strings and the trial and error of it can be exhausting. I have a shop that I am very close with that they let me get in the garage with them and see what the alignment is doing. With the DSSV plates you'd essentially need 2 alignment readouts, if you can find a shop that will allow you to learn while they are doing it that would be best.

Depending on what is more important, street or track (for me it's track), you can have them do the alignment in the track setting, set the toe to 0 or 1-2/32 out. Then have them flip the plates to street, and see if the toe is acceptable IN for street wear. Now you have your two full alignments, and it's kind of a crap shoot if they BOTH (might be either or) will be acceptable, but one or the other may very well be out, and need to be adjusted for it's designed purpose. That's where it may become costly or time consuming.

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Maybe not, if you're running a street setting that's slightly 'toe-in' and the change from street camber to track camber doesn't move the toe 'out' too fast.

One trick to making quick camber changes that are accurate and repeatable is to work up a gauge-block or similar arrangement for both the street and track settings once you've found what the best settings for those uses are.


Norm

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by Move_Over

Well with MRC there's really only one place to adjust camber which is at the strut knuckle. You adjust the camber bolts, adjust toe and you're set. With the DSSV you are now introducing camber adjustment at the top of the strut tower, with still the same type of adjustment at the knuckle. It's really a neat and quick way of doing it as essentially you spin the camber plate 180 degrees for +/-1.7 degrees worth of camber, there's not really any adjustment at the top hat other than those two settings (street and track), the fine tuning is at the knuckle. I don't really drive the car too much on the street so mine will be staying in the track position.

With the vorshlag plates (and moreno, gc etc..) the camber adjusts on a slide, not a single setting so there is more adjustment and there's also room for error. What i have done in the past with vorshlag plates is essentially two alignments and mark on the slider S and T settings so you know where to land that..

What NORM says below is true. Most guys (including myself) don't really do their own alignments. I have in the past, while it's super educational, setting up strings and the trial and error of it can be exhausting. I have a shop that I am very close with that they let me get in the garage with them and see what the alignment is doing. With the DSSV plates you'd essentially need 2 alignment readouts, if you can find a shop that will allow you to learn while they are doing it that would be best.

Depending on what is more important, street or track (for me it's track), you can have them do the alignment in the track setting, set the toe to 0 or 1-2/32 out. Then have them flip the plates to street, and see if the toe is acceptable IN for street wear. Now you have your two full alignments, and it's kind of a crap shoot if they BOTH (might be either or) will be acceptable, but one or the other may very well be out, and need to be adjusted for it's designed purpose. That's where it may become costly or time consuming.

Interesting, thanks for that info, I definitely won't be doing this myself, I'm hoping the race track can do it in a reasonable time before I begin racing (so I don't have to show up too early that day and after I'm done racing at the end of the track day so I don't have to stay too long after the tracking is over).


So I want to see if I have this right; you're saying that on the ZLE camber plate one of the setting (track or street depending on which you choose) will definitely consistently be the desired camber and toe despite switching back and forth between the 2 setting but it's hard (not impossible) to get both settings (track and street) to consistently have the desired camber and toe when switching back and forth between settings without one of them needing a more detailed alignment adjustment, correct?
So it sunds like at the very least one of the 2 alignments will be a quick switch with ZLE type camber plate?

I assume if Vorshlag or Gen5DIY wanted to, they could make a ZLE type camber plate with that quicker adjustment unlike how the Moreno camber plate was?

Currently my ZL1 is a daily driver and it will remain so in the spring and summer when I will track the car about 6 times over that period of good weather. While I'm just learning how to track my car this year, I imagine I will care more about the best alignment I can get as time goes and the better I get, so I'm interested in learning as much as I can about this for the next tracking season in 2020.