10-13-2011, 01:34 AM | #15 | |
More human than human
|
Quote:
__________________
1100 - 10/22/2008 3000 - 05/27/2009 3300 - 06/06/2009 3800 - 06/29/2009 4B00 - 06/29/2009 Warehouse 13 survivor Blood stains,speed kills,fast cars,cheap thrills,rich women,fine wine,i lost my sense i lost control i lost my mind. |
|
10-13-2011, 09:12 AM | #16 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
|
|
10-13-2011, 09:21 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2010 camaro 2ss cgm Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: texas
Posts: 19
|
Let us know how it all turns out. Like others have said, two bucket system with grit guards. I blow dry then go over with a quick detailer and clean microfiber cloth very lightly on the water spots. You want to clean without touching the car as much as possible when it comes to a black car.
|
10-13-2011, 10:52 AM | #18 | |
Drives: The shiny ones. Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: In the detail shop!
Posts: 5,979
|
Quote:
The other issue potentially is streaking as the fabric softener redeposits itself on the paint. If its working for you then stick with it, just know that the 'detailing world at large' discourages it for those reasons. |
|
10-13-2011, 11:44 AM | #19 |
Just a car guy
Drives: 2016 Durango R/T AWD Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wheeling, IL
Posts: 808
|
This has already been mentioned, but, I would do the following.
1. Strip that section, maybe a 2X2 area with Rubbing Alcohol. 2. Re-Clay that area a bit, using some detail spray/clay lube liberally. 3. If you have a DA or a Rotary buffer, using an Orange, white and a grey pad would work that out no problem. Those swirl marks are not horrible, but will get worse if you do not correct them now only make your future efforts more difficult. If you do not have a DA or a Rotary, use some Cleaner wax and gently rub it in. The only downside is that is not going to get rid of those swirls, but it may improve the way it currently looks. |
10-13-2011, 12:20 PM | #20 |
|
This thread is one of the worst i've seen for bad detailing advice.
__________________
[B]
|
10-13-2011, 12:27 PM | #21 |
Just a car guy
Drives: 2016 Durango R/T AWD Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wheeling, IL
Posts: 808
|
|
10-13-2011, 02:25 PM | #22 |
The enjoyment never ends
Drives: 2010 1LT/RS IOM #25223 Join Date: May 2009
Location: NKY
Posts: 1,086
|
|
10-13-2011, 05:52 PM | #23 | |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
|
Quote:
I agree though, too much softener will cause issues. With my water, I've found a sweet spot of just a little softener to get soft towels that still work perfect for detailing/waxing. On the O.P.s issue, just noticed this comment again : "I also used Meguire's Quik Detailer a few times when I wiped it down with a clean microfiber cloth during this week." Did you wash the car right before the Detailer wipe downs? If not, a freshly waxed car can really attract a lot of dust and dirt quick. Some of the "wet look" waxes are so oily, one quick drive and the car is dust covered. If you didn't wash it before the Detailer wiping, could have wiped those swirls in it with the surface dirt. If so, follow a swirl removing process/products. Then in the future avoid anything abrasive. Clay = abrasive. Wiping on a dirty surface = abrasive. And the less touching the better. Dry with a leaf blower to reduce towel rubbing... If you want to see how bad it is swirled up, put it in a dark garage and hold a shop light over it. You'll probably purchase a PC buffer after doing that... and throw the clay in the trash. Why would a new '11 need claying? Unless it was covered in rail dust or some other fallout. |
|
10-13-2011, 07:36 PM | #24 | |
Drives: 2011 2LS All Black Camaro Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 80
|
Quote:
Once I got home the car was COVERED in dust. I Quik detailed most of the panels seen in the picture as swirl marks. I NEVER did that before, not sure what I was thinking when I did it, but it seems that is what caused my problem! So just to update, I have re-washed and then tried Meguire's cleaner wax. The haze and swirling has really been cut down - BUT - somewhat still there. Next week I planned on buying an orbital polisher, washing with Dawn - then polishing with Meguire's Ultimate Polish and my new machine, then rewaxing. Given that some of you have said that a lot of the advice in this thread was bad, does my plan sound like a good one? I'd hate to screw this up even more.
__________________
Mods: Blacked out bowties, Roto-Fab CAI, Powder-Coated Rims on P-Zeros, MRT 2.0 Exhaust, Heritage Grille, Rear Spoiler, USB Port with Bluetooth package, Lowered 1inch all around, Window Tint, Matte Black hood spears, rocker panels, gill inserts
|
|
10-13-2011, 07:52 PM | #25 |
|
Lol, every so often one of these pops up and it's just like WTF?
__________________
[B]
|
10-13-2011, 11:13 PM | #26 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
|
I would do a lot more research on swirl mark removal using a Porter Cable, watch some of the videos out there. If you're set on using Meguires products they have a website with forums and tips. If you go with Adams products, there are some members here that can help you pick the right products.
If you're going to use a machine polisher like a Porter Cable, make sure the products you pick are intended for machine and hand use. Start with a compound that is intended for very fine swirl marks, the least aggressive swirl mark remover they have. If that does not correct it, move up to the next aggressive swirl mark remover. On the Meguires site it seems like for machine buffing of swirl marks they recommend Swirl X or Ultimate Compound if the swirls cannot be removed by Swirl X. Then follow up the Ultimate Compound with Swirl X, then wax. They show the Ultimate Polish as a glaze (and don't mention machine application). Generally glazes just fill in imperfections, not really a fix to the problem - more of a cover up. Which ever brand you pick, I'd spend some more time on their websites making sure your picking the right stuff for machine swirl mark removing. And meticulously wash the car first, washing each panel multiple times. With machine buffing, the last thing you want is dirt getting in the pads. |
10-13-2011, 11:52 PM | #27 |
The enjoyment never ends
Drives: 2010 1LT/RS IOM #25223 Join Date: May 2009
Location: NKY
Posts: 1,086
|
Just a correction. Ultimate polish is not a pure glaze. It does have abrasives in it so it can be used as a final polish.
|
10-14-2011, 12:35 AM | #28 |
Drives: COTW 8/29/11 2010 CAMARO Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: HOMELESS
Posts: 10,010
|
Yea trade it in ....
|
|
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Paint Chips on Rear Fascia | rwmiller56 | Camaro Issues / Problems | Warranty Discussions | TSB and Recalls | 9 | 08-19-2011 04:57 PM |
Paint Chipped on Rear Fascia | rwmiller56 | Camaro Issues / Problems | Warranty Discussions | TSB and Recalls | 2 | 08-10-2011 05:49 PM |
A few questions about custom paint jobs. | nardox | Cosmetics and Lighting Modification Discussions | 11 | 02-21-2011 08:34 AM |
Open question to dealers regarding paint discrepancies | TommyTSquared | Camaro Price | Ordering | Tracking | Dealers Discussions | 4 | 08-21-2010 10:05 AM |
Adam's Polish & Car care Products | Charlie@STILLEN | Wash/Wax/Detailing and Cosmetic Maintenance Parts | 50 | 04-01-2010 03:28 PM |