[IH8WNTR]

I finished installing my xmas gift and wanted to show what I used and did incase anyone else is looking to do something similar. This small powered subwoofer does a good job rounding out the sound.

I removed the foam contraption in the trunk and in its place I used some 3/4" mdf that I cut to size and screwed together to make it 1 1/2" high. Drilled holes into it for where the screws come up from the trunk floor. I put some foam insulation tape on both sides of the mdf and then wrapped with automotive carpet. This is the foundation for the sub. I used the straps that came with the sub to fasten it to this foundation as seen in the picture.

The rest is pretty self explanatory. I spliced into the rear side panel speakers for the signal to the line output converter and the amp. I ran the ground to a bolt for the trunk latch.

Inside by my seat, I just put a piece of velcro(hook side), on the back of the remote gain adjuster and put it by between my seat and the center console.
I think thats about it. Just let me know if you have any questions.

The following is the stuff I used.
https://www.amazon.com/DiversiTech-6.../dp/B00SYQ3VNA

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ps%2Ck%3Aibr69

https://www.amazon.com/Hideaway-Powe...icker+hideaway

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[IH8WNTR]

Here are the pics

[Start The Machine]

Sorry, can you explain more about the installation process. I'm assuming your car has the Bose system? How did you tie into it? Etc..

[IH8WNTR]

no Bose system. Its a 1ss 1le so no amp to tie into or anything. I got constant power from the battery with an inline fuse but the fuse tap would be easier if i was to do it again. Remote power/signal for the sub comes from the line output converter. The spliced rear speaker wires are tied into the sub harness and the loc.

[Start The Machine]

Thanks for clarifying. This stuff is way over my head. I was wondering because I have a Bose system in mine. I believe there is a wiring harness out now for it.

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by IH8WNTR

no Bose system. Its a 1ss 1le so no amp to tie into or anything. I got constant power from the battery with an inline fuse but the fuse tap would be easier if i was to do it again. Remote power/signal for the sub comes from the line output converter. The spliced rear speaker wires are tied into the sub harness and the loc.

I have a 1LE as well, after doing mine you may want to change up your install slightly. The rear speakers are crossed over and run a reduced range, the front door speakers are the only ones that received a full range signal. I tapped into both of those and ran them back to the trunk for my Kicker amp.

I did the same thing as you, removed the foam piece and mounted a piece of board to the floor and the amp to that board, used a high level converter to pull the signal down and am powering a JL Audio Stealth sub.

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by TJay74

I have a 1LE as well, after doing mine you may want to change up your install slightly. The rear speakers are crossed over and run a reduced range, the front door speakers are the only ones that received a full range signal. I tapped into both of those and ran them back to the trunk for my Kicker amp.

I did the same thing as you, removed the foam piece and mounted a piece of board to the floor and the amp to that board, used a high level converter to pull the signal down and am powering a JL Audio Stealth sub.

just curious, are you saying the rear speakers have a HPF whereas the front speakers are full range? Most vehicles use the rear speakers for midbass/subbass . Is the Camaro doing the opposite in the 1SS 1LE?

[IH8WNTR]

I'm pretty sure the rear signals limited range is still plenty enough to satisfy whats needed for just the sub. I definitely don't feel like anything is lacking down low any more. The amp thats part of the powered enclosure does have a switch for high level or low level inputs though. That could be why it works fine. Thanks for the thought though!

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by IH8WNTR

I'm pretty sure the rear signals limited range is still plenty enough to satisfy whats needed for just the sub. I definitely don't feel like anything is lacking down low any more. The amp thats part of the powered enclosure does have a switch for high level or low level inputs though. That could be why it works fine. Thanks for the thought though!

was that to my question or to TJay74?

Without knowing the specifics for the setup in your car, I think you would be spot on. The only frequencies needed to feed the sub would be below 110Hz. If there was a HPF on the rear speakers , you would essentially have little to no bass because the bass frequencies wouldn't be there.

I think you are right, either the rear speakers are getting a full range signal, or if they do have a HPF, it is set to something like 30hz and up to eliminate sub sonic interference.

just my thoughts without being directly in front of you car.

Either way, glad it worked out for you!

[Capt Insaino]

I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Is there a schematic that you could draw up? I'm one of those that needs to see it to understand.

[harrisrwe]

I second for the wiring diagram. I am all in with this project, I just like being absolutely certain before I go cutting wires and putting in a converter. What wires and where were they that you had to cut? did you have to run them through the car or were they already in the trunk?

[IH8WNTR]

I've been looking for a way to draw up a schematic of what was done but am having no luck with something basic/easy to use. Can anyone advise me on what they use to draw up basic schematics?

I didn't cut any wires. Only spliced existing speaker wires, and ran new power and grounds.
My intent was to do whatever I could that if needed, the car could be put back as if I never did it.

[harrisrwe]

Just found this thread with, most likely, all the info we need to finish the puzzle. Thanks though!

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...&highlight=1ss

[Miami_1LE]

wrong my friend. The amp is behind the passanger glove box.

Originally Posted by IH8WNTR

no Bose system. Its a 1ss 1le so no amp to tie into or anything. I got constant power from the battery with an inline fuse but the fuse tap would be easier if i was to do it again. Remote power/signal for the sub comes from the line output converter. The spliced rear speaker wires are tied into the sub harness and the loc.