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Old 02-06-2021, 10:45 AM   #57
SIM GhostrdrZ

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLOW TIE View Post
Per that video, I would say that’s exactly the difference the new battery ground wire made on my Z.
Did you replace the cable in the trunk or add the 1/0 cable in addition to the factory trunk cable?
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:49 AM   #58
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I added the cable in the trunk.
Did not replace anything, just added. So pretty much looks like PZero’s pic.
It did make a difference in starting on a cold battery sitting for about a week.
I’ve never had a problem w heat soak as my car is bone stock.

Last edited by FLOW TIE; 02-07-2021 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 02-08-2021, 09:30 AM   #59
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Disclaimer: I don’t want to, mean to insult anyone but instead just to give an additional thought in troubleshooting starting issues.

I don’t want to take away from anyone’s success of adding additional cables or trashing on GM’s design of the electrical system for the starter. But instead of throwing ohms law and electrical troubleshooting terms or multimeter resistance or voltage drop readings. Let me approach this a different way if it might help a few folks.
There’s only a few simple items to check or replace. The battery, the actual starter, the cables and the actual connections. I added pictures to remove, clean, add true dielectric grease(if it doesn’t say dielectric then it only adds as a insulator instead of the needed conductor properties). This simple process of these connectors are simple to reach and cost as little as the dielectric grease and a few minutes. I would suggest if you have a good multimeter to check each cable for resistance but my bet is connectors are the problem. If there’s still starting issues and it’s not the battery or starter then there is no $ lost and cables can be added. But it’s from my experience most low voltage issues in circuits are from corroded/rusted connectors.
The red circled connectors are the 4 that can be removed, cleaned, dielectric grease added and then reinstalled.
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Old 02-08-2021, 10:57 AM   #60
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I removed the front negative or ground cable (body to engine).
It’s ~10” long and at least 2/0 size or larger.
I didn’t need to remove it as my system was strong but I’m going to add dielectric grease and reinstall. Just want to show how easy and accessible it was just to do.
Thanks
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Old 02-10-2021, 04:23 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIM GhostrdrZ View Post
Disclaimer: I don’t want to, mean to insult anyone but instead just to give an additional thought in troubleshooting starting issues.

I don’t want to take away from anyone’s success of adding additional cables or trashing on GM’s design of the electrical system for the starter. But instead of throwing ohms law and electrical troubleshooting terms or multimeter resistance or voltage drop readings. Let me approach this a different way if it might help a few folks.
There’s only a few simple items to check or replace. The battery, the actual starter, the cables and the actual connections. I added pictures to remove, clean, add true dielectric grease(if it doesn’t say dielectric then it only adds as a insulator instead of the needed conductor properties). This simple process of these connectors are simple to reach and cost as little as the dielectric grease and a few minutes. I would suggest if you have a good multimeter to check each cable for resistance but my bet is connectors are the problem. If there’s still starting issues and it’s not the battery or starter then there is no $ lost and cables can be added. But it’s from my experience most low voltage issues in circuits are from corroded/rusted connectors.
The red circled connectors are the 4 that can be removed, cleaned, dielectric grease added and then reinstalled.
Sim, thanks for the info. That's really good info to know. I'll work on the neg cables on the engine side soon. I believe you are correct, it's not the cable, since they use good quality factory cables...I think it's really the corrosion over time on the connections.
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Old 02-11-2021, 07:09 AM   #62
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How much does heat effect the cables? Very rarely will you hear someone complain about a cold start. It's always a case of hot starting. Do the cables increase their resistance when heated 100+ degrees?
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Old 02-11-2021, 07:59 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelster View Post
How much does heat effect the cables? Very rarely will you hear someone complain about a cold start. It's always a case of hot starting. Do the cables increase their resistance when heated 100+ degrees?
We all know the answer; yes, heat will increase resistance of a cable. Cold start issues are real in my neck of the woods. But a weak battery will rear it’s ugly head in extremes of cold or heat, so don’t just take battery voltage and call it hood but get it tested via a battery tester.
Back to cable resistance with heat. Resistance does increase with heat but should be negligible with the heat we are talking about with the exhaust manifold area being the highest temperature area. The ambient air temperature is not a factor when speaking of cable resistance but can affect battery or starter effectiveness. I’m not troubleshooting for dollars like shops so I go for the easiest, least $$ first. If I had hot start issues, I personally would try to identify the specific issues at the given time. Details are important in troubleshooting as it can lead you to or away from the root cause. Maybe the starter windings are heating up therefore making it weak. Could be a cable that is corroded enough that when heated the resistance spikes and dramatically reduces the voltage across the cable. Could be corroded connectors that when heated it causes the same issue as cable issues.

I digress but I’d get into the hot soaked start problem, then disconnect battery from the system and I’d test the entire ground/positive circuit for resistance and if there’s issues( higher than ~2 ohms read with a good multimeter) then begin to isolate the problem area. But doing this it is important to get a baseline cold reading as to be able to know if it actually increases in resistance in the heat soaked state. It is a tedious task and that’s why dealers or shops will just throw a battery, starter or cable at it, which most likely will fix it but then you walk away with a large bill and if or when the issue returns then you have no idea what caused the issue the first time.
as you can tell, electrical discussions are long and boring but I always prided myself as a problem solver and not just a parts changer. But that was a previous life and I love new parts as much as the next guy,

I digress but basically you’ve got to get a baseline of your starter circuit health and find what changes with the heat soak situation.

Thanks
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Old 02-27-2021, 04:51 AM   #64
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WTF were GM engineers thinking !

I just installed the extra battery trunk cable from GEN5DIY thinking I'd rather boost the volts directly from the battery source to the chassis rather than from the engine bay chassis to the starter.

I could not believe how thin the grounding screw is that connects the battery negative cable strap to the trunk It's only maybe 4/5mm in diameter and don't think it's stainless steel? Now I know it’s really the large head washer that actually makes the grounding contact with the cable strap but even that seemed thin. Not only that but the hole in the trunk it screws into is OPEN to the underneath of the car where it's exposed to the road surface elements!I think that, along with it not being stainless steel explains why mine had rust on some of the threads. I brushed off the rust with a wire brush and put some vaseline on it when I screwed it back in. I going to replace it with another eom one if I can’t find a stainless steel version.

Just a all around
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