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Old 11-23-2018, 05:36 PM   #113
cdb95z28


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carguy55 View Post
Those that have ran the DBA T3 5000 front rotor rings, are they better than stock? After 14 track days I think my fronts are done.

New stock rings with hat are $329 from Rock Auto
DBA T3 5000 rotor rings are $355 from KNS Brakes

What about the rears, stay with stock?
The DBA rings are on ebay. If you wait till a 15 or 20% ebay coupon appears, the DBAs will be $284 each at the 20% off.
Ebay had just sent out a 15% off offer this past Wednesday and the max discount was $100. I believe with the 20% off it is also a $100 max. To get more than $100 off, you would have to purchase each ring separately (possibly with two different accounts).
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Old 11-23-2018, 08:33 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by carguy55 View Post
What about the rears, stay with stock?

Rears are just fine, IMHO.


On a slightly related note, folks in this thread and the 'track pad' thread have mentioned how good the brake bias is.


That has been my experience, as well. I lipped the front and rear rotors at the same rate. I run the same pad type F/R.
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Last edited by MatthewAMEL; 11-27-2018 at 01:02 AM.
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Old 11-26-2018, 09:49 PM   #115
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Generally speaking how much lighter would the rear rotors be each if they were two piece?
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Old 11-27-2018, 12:02 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy View Post
Generally speaking how much lighter would the rear rotors be each if they were two piece?
3.9# per rotor for J6M (SS 1LE), 5.6# for J6H (ZL1) if you go the RacingBrake 2-piece aluminum hat versions. I have the J6H versions on mine - very nice parts but not a cheap mod. J6M version link below...

https://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piec...ear-p/2505.htm
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Old 12-02-2018, 05:25 PM   #117
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Finally got the time to get mine on today...


Thanks to KNS Brakes for getting them out so quickly.


Appreciate all the help in this thread.


Install is straight-forward...just be sure you have a impact tool to break the caliper bolts loose.
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Old 12-02-2018, 07:37 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by RUQWIKR View Post
3.9# per rotor for J6M (SS 1LE), 5.6# for J6H (ZL1) if you go the RacingBrake 2-piece aluminum hat versions. I have the J6H versions on mine - very nice parts but not a cheap mod. J6M version link below...

https://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piec...ear-p/2505.htm
Thank you!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-02-2018, 07:41 PM   #119
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3.9 lbs per rear isnt bad plus lost weight for my wheels and tires.
Or
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Old 12-02-2018, 09:12 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL View Post
Finally got the time to get mine on today...
Thanks to KNS Brakes for getting them out so quickly.
Appreciate all the help in this thread.
Install is straight-forward...just be sure you have a impact tool to break the caliper bolts loose.
What pad you going to use with them? Interested to see how long they last compared to OEM
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Old 03-09-2019, 07:14 PM   #121
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I was unable to break the Caliper bolts free, I even went out and bought an electric impact wrench. They just would not budge. I guess I have to take it to a shop.

Last edited by BigShow1960; 03-09-2019 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 03-09-2019, 07:20 PM   #122
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I was unable to break the Caliper bolts free, I even went out and bought an electric impact wrench. They just would not budge. I guess I hat to take it to a shop.
You need a good, long breaker bar and prefer a 6-pt vs. 12-pt socket. I break them loose by hand but with the car on my lift. With the thread locker and high torque (with extra angle for clamp load), they take a good pull / push to break them free.

Whether you or the shop does them, make sure to clean out the old thread locker out of the knuckle threads with acetone or something similar. New bolts have the thread locker patch on them, or clean off the residual thread locker and reapply as per the Service Manual.
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Old 03-15-2019, 11:52 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUQWIKR View Post
You need a good, long breaker bar and prefer a 6-pt vs. 12-pt socket. I break them loose by hand but with the car on my lift. With the thread locker and high torque (with extra angle for clamp load), they take a good pull / push to break them free.

Whether you or the shop does them, make sure to clean out the old thread locker out of the knuckle threads with acetone or something similar. New bolts have the thread locker patch on them, or clean off the residual thread locker and reapply as per the Service Manual.
Use combination wrench and hit with hammer. They will loosen up by the 5th blow. Works every time.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:25 PM   #124
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Just found a smoking deal on these rotors at thmotorsports.com

I guess they are having a tax sale right now and they are listed at $276.38 a rotor with free shipping. I ordered a set because I need new front brakes badly.
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Old 09-22-2019, 09:41 AM   #125
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Looking for a complete set of clips and bobbins if anyone has a junk set of rotors.
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Old 09-23-2019, 11:06 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUQWIKR View Post
You need a good, long breaker bar and prefer a 6-pt vs. 12-pt socket. I break them loose by hand but with the car on my lift. With the thread locker and high torque (with extra angle for clamp load), they take a good pull / push to break them free.

Whether you or the shop does them, make sure to clean out the old thread locker out of the knuckle threads with acetone or something similar. New bolts have the thread locker patch on them, or clean off the residual thread locker and reapply as per the Service Manual.
The thread locker is the problem. Hit each bolt with a microtorch for a second (melts the threadlocker) and watch the bolts become easy to remove.
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