[brettman]

Originally Posted by LtColumbo

Remove the plastic cover that surrounds that + post and you will see many powered, unused threaded studs available.

Thats what I did, cover pops off, you have battery terminals (with nuts) right there. I had my front end off (SC install) so it was easy to route the plug to the license plate location. So no wires are seen.

[tecmec]

Originally Posted by PinHead

FYI,

A battery tender/charger is only a type of transformer.

After you connect the Tender to your Car's Battery take a 110V Volt Meter and check for voltage on the Edison Plug on the Tender/Charger.

You might be surprised that its now converting 12V to AC(volts) by being back-fed.

Nope, that's not at all possible. Transformers only work on AC, and your car battery is not AC. If you feed DC into one side of a transformer, you will get nothing on the other side.

The cheap charger you describe might use a transformer to convert 120V RMS AC to ~10V RMS AC, then feed that into a bridge rectifier to convert it to ~14V DC. But bridge rectifiers only work in one direction, and wont convert DC back into AC if you feed them backwards.

[ZED SLED]

Originally Posted by LtColumbo

Remove the plastic cover that surrounds that + post and you will see many powered, unused threaded studs available.

Has anyone verified that this is a good place to connect a charger? I pulled that cover yesterday and saw that all those terminals read 12.6 volts with everything off but was reluctant to connect my ctek to one. So for now it's just clamped to the battery cable post and taped over. Not comfortable with leaving that way over the winter.

[Teneck83]

Any updates?

[Glen e]

As I said in post 10, it’s fine to connect a charger to those spots, the red big connector in the front, or the battery in the back. They all get to the same place. The best thing to do is to buy a battery tender pigtail and hardwire it to the battery leaving it to come out underneath the side wall in the trunk. Then you can Connect any other device in the future without messing with anything, a battery volt meter, a battery charger, or any other 12 V device you need.

https://www.ebay.com/i/401042861894?...D1363646930582

[ripley217]

This is how I did mine. Took a piece of brake bleeding tubing, about 1/4” inside diameter and used it to hold the quick connect on the positive jump start post. Worked great.

[Tabloma]

And how does this confounded positive battery terminal come off?

[1hprush]

Originally Posted by Tabloma

And how does this confounded positive battery terminal come off?

Haha...you must be referring to the lid. I wanted to go this route too, but was concerned about breaking some of the tabs. Post it up when you figure it out

[Glen e]

Look around with a small jewelers screwdriver and you'll see how the top pops off. But unless you are completely OCD and have to have everything absolutely stock, you can leave it off and just lubricate all the terminals with a protectant like CRC656 or dielectric.

[Tabloma]

The plastic positive battery terminal over is in 2 pieces. One has two tabs you can squeeze and slide to the drivers side. Adding a wire blocks the ability to slide the cover back on all the way. For now I modified it to work, but ordered a new one, $60 , then I think I can grind a slot in the bottom half to run the tender wire under it and it will look like a factory install. I’ll post pics after I get the new piece.