[teddyca]

Pretty straight forward. All my research shows the JMS Powermax V2 is plug and play under the dash and only requires tapping one wire. The ZL1 #23377989 requires dropping the tank and a few hours of work. If that's the case I will spend the $400 because I don't want to deal with taking the car apart.

[KingLT1]

If you are just running the base system I would start with the JMS to keep your voltage consistent. You can always add the pump later if you need more fuel.

[parish8]

Silly question, both!

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

If you are just running the base system I would start with the JMS to keep your voltage consistent. You can always add the pump later if you need more fuel.

[steelheadrob]

I did the ZL1 in tank pump, I prefer to add an upgraded oem part first, although it is a little more work. I data log all of my 1/4 mile runs, I have not noticed any fluctuations in fuel pressure due to changes in the voltage. At some point I will add the JMS when the data logs tell me I need too.

[asthmamax11]

Originally Posted by steelheadrob

I did the ZL1 in tank pump, I prefer to add an upgraded oem part first, although it is a little more work. I data log all of my 1/4 mile runs, I have not noticed any fluctuations in fuel pressure due to changes in the voltage. At some point I will add the JMS when the data logs tell me I need too.

Interesting. I'd like to see more proof of why we all need the voltage booster and if it is worth it by itself

[parish8]

Originally Posted by asthmamax11

Interesting. I'd like to see more proof of why we all need the voltage booster and if it is worth it by itself

jenetty (spelling?) posted up a video where he makes some runs on the dyno and the voltage to the pump is inconsistent.

there are some tables for that on hptuners that allow you to set the voltage to the pump at various loads but I am not 100% sure that takes care of the problem.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by asthmamax11

Interesting. I'd like to see more proof of why we all need the voltage booster and if it is worth it by itself

Read the "why you need a voltage booster" thread. Ted has a video on it.

[asthmamax11]

Thanks for the replies guys
Is the car on the Dyno a 5th gen ?

[teddyca]

I truly appreciate everyone's feedback. Thank you

[L78toLT1]

Don't be afraid of the LT4 pump. It's not bad at all, you can have the exhaust, drive shaft and tank on the floor in less than an hour. Pump is a bit of a pita if you have big hands, but still not bad.

[Red Lightening]

I purchased the JMS booster in process of having the full Lt4 fuel system installed by my tuner. He does not recommend the use the JMS booster based on my current and future applications, (650-700 whp) as the GenV Lt1 computer compensates for voltage irregularities and is more than capable of supporting the fuel requirements I am currently in need of as well as future requirements at 650-700 whp. His concern is that with consistent voltage from the JMS Booster, there is consistent fuel, thus increasing the return fuel on lower rpms with the result of increased fuel temperatures in the tank. He said it can be done, just not what he would recommend. I certainly am not an expert and I know there are numerous opinions, but I would talk with your tuner first. Prior to the fuel upgrade I currently have Kooks 1 7/8 LT's, (w/high flow cats-coming off and don't recommend as they are reported to be "melting down" on similar applications), Snow meth kit, (specifically for cooling-starts at 3lbs and 100% at 6lbs only using the setting of 18 out of 50, conservative, btw all stainless lines), AWE touring exhaust, (very loud 0-drone) I am at 602whp/555wt. The Lt4 upgrade is to run E85. I know this is overkill on some info, just wish I would have had some of it prior to some of my purchases

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Red Lightening

I purchased the JMS booster in process of having the full Lt4 fuel system installed by my tuner. He does not recommend the use the JMS booster based on my current and future applications, (650-700 whp) as the GenV Lt1 computer compensates for voltage irregularities and is more than capable of supporting the fuel requirements I am currently in need of as well as future requirements at 650-700 whp. His concern is that with consistent voltage from the JMS Booster, there is consistent fuel, thus increasing the return fuel on lower rpms with the result of increased fuel temperatures in the tank. He said it can be done, just not what he would recommend. I certainly am not an expert and I know there are numerous opinions, but I would talk with your tuner first. Prior to the fuel upgrade I currently have Kooks 1 7/8 LT's, (w/high flow cats-coming off and don't recommend as they are reported to be "melting down" on similar applications), Snow meth kit, (specifically for cooling-starts at 3lbs and 100% at 6lbs only using the setting of 18 out of 50, conservative, btw all stainless lines), AWE touring exhaust, (very loud 0-drone) I am at 602whp/555wt. The Lt4 upgrade is to run E85. I know this is overkill on some info, just wish I would have had some of it prior to some of my purchases

The JMS doesn't increase voltage when out if boost, it just keeps it consistent. There is nothing wrong with the pump running at a consistent 14.5 volts. That is the standard voltage with car running. On these newer cars with variable charging, the voltage can drop down to 12.5 volts when running and that will effect fuel pressure. On a stock car its not a big deal on a FI car it can be problematic. The booster only increases voltage above that point based on how you decide to program it in relation to boost and tps percentage.

[tom's2005gto]

How does the boosted LT4 handle fuel pressure and voltage drops? Does the ZL1 utilize a voltage booster for the LT4 in tank pump? If not, why can't we just install the LT4 pump / bucket kit? I'm sure I'm missing something, but that's why I'm asking, because I don't understand.