[oldman]

wondering how many of you have tried a shake and bake stroker kit?
1) this engine has the thrust bearings laser welded to the saddle! The Texas Speed kit say will "require minor machine work". http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...-warp-speed/#/

2) I don't know till I get the crank, but it seems that the stoker crank with the rounded radius "filet" mains can't use the stock bearing either!

So anybody do this yet? I'd like to know what "minor machine work" is needed. The vendor was not all that helpful, now if I could speak to the machine shop guys...

[DFW1LE]

Have you talked to TSP about their kit? Curious about power potential from an NA 416. I believe Redline had one that produced something like 577 whp, but I would think something closer to 600 is achievable.

[Redlinez]

Try Erik at https://horsepower-research.com/pages/our-team

[oldman]

Originally Posted by DFW1LE

Have you talked to TSP about their kit? Curious about power potential from an NA 416. I believe Redline had one that produced something like 577 whp, but I would think something closer to 600 is achievable.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...d-performance/

Katech is at 707 STP HP about 695 SAE, TSP does not have a dyno on their site but the C7 forum does:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ph-inside.html

About 675 STP dunno the conditions say 660 SAE, what I like is by 3250 rpm one is looking at 80 ft lbs more torque. I have an M6 and it is a LONG pull in 1st gear once can use some torque since gears are not out yet for the car.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Redlinez

Try Erik at https://horsepower-research.com/pages/our-team

Thanks, I hate to call somebody that is not selling the kit I'm buying. I gonna have to assume it is not something crazy. Well to me welding the thrust bearings to the block is crazy...

[DFW1LE]

Originally Posted by oldman

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...d-performance/

Katech is at 707 STP HP about 695 SAE, TSP does not have a dyno on their site but the C7 forum does:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ph-inside.html

About 675 STP dunno the conditions say 660 SAE, what I like is by 3250 rpm one is looking at 80 ft lbs more torque. I have an M6 and it is a LONG pull in 1st gear once can use some torque since gears are not out yet for the car.

Thanks! Although I have not run my car at the track yet, I am guessing it might take a 416 to get into the 10s on a NA M6 car.

[oldman]

I'm only on the street and I'm on a mod quest to get me the street fighter that I "need". It is a merry go round of get traction add power, the look for traction. For me the lack of torque during the 0 to 60 is what makes the M6 decidedly slower than the A8 or any mod-Mustang (they can get gears). As soon as the stroker goes in I'm looking at
widen stock wheels to 11' and 305 PS4s, with a 3/4 spring drop rear only (actually the drop is already done). I want a very consitant mid 3s zero to 60 in street trim DD. Anything more in the power department especially one that adds weight, is going to slow me down and that to mind includes a supercharger (due to the added front weight). I will not consider any rear tire below 220 wear. I will be looking at getting a little more weight out of the car: lithium battery and rear seat delete, I know it ain't in the right place. I've already taken off any not needed cover from the engine bay and the BMR mounts will go in with the stroker, headers and no cats, no front cat support bracket, no sound tube and brackets probably saved 20 lbs. Heck I may even move the washer bottle to the trunk. Maybe all told it will be 100 lbs 35 from the front, 65 lbs from the back.

I would never consider a big brake kit or strut tower brace because of weight, sure it is small but 5 lbs here, 5 lbs there. I started with a 1SS with no options.

[KingLT1]

There is no lack of torque...the issue is gearing. The M6 first gear is super long. It needs a 4.30 gear with the stock 28" tire height. The A8 rolls out with it's 4.56 first gear and maintains better shift extension.

I would do heads/cam/gears and stick with stock stroke. Put that 416 crank money elsewhere. 600whp is doable with the SBE and a good H/C/I setup with a M6.

[DFW1LE]

Gears would be nice, but there are none available. Even more of a challenge for a future gearing solution on the 1LE/ZL1 with e-diff. Still curious how much a 26" tire would help by providing a better effective gear ratio, but that would still be well short of 4.1, let alone 4.3. I believe the 305/30/20s on the 1LE and ZL1 cars are 27.2".

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by DFW1LE

Curious about power potential from an NA 416. I believe Redline had one that produced something like 577 whp, but I would think something closer to 600 is achievable.

I agree that the engine in that magazine article was leaving some stuff on the table. They did not port the cylinder heads, did not port the intake manifold, used the stock airbox, and did not use E85 for example. Percentage wise, to take the high/low/medium reading dyno question out of the equation, it looks like they gained 32.6% in rwhp. We've seen bigger gains posted from 376s that have the other mods I'm mentioning done, so it seems such an engine stroked to 416 could be quite strong.

[DFW1LE]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

I agree that the engine in that magazine article was leaving some stuff on the table. They did not port the cylinder heads, did not port the intake manifold, used the stock airbox, and did not use E85 for example. Percentage wise, to take the high/low/medium reading dyno question out of the equation, it looks like they gained 32.6% in rwhp. We've seen bigger gains posted from 376s that have the other mods I'm mentioning done, so it seems such an engine stroked to 416 could be quite strong.

Yep, my car gained over 35%. I'm still biased toward a NA approach, and reluctant to add more weight to the front end via FI. I would think a 416 would make for a pretty good street/strip/road course car with good drivability.

[glenB]

The thrust flange is welded to the bearing shell, not the block. With the fillet rolled the way they are you will need to modify the stock bearing or ask where they got theirs. It's not typical to do this 'at home' any more. In the old days you would take a super fine file and chamfer the edge. It was tedious and prone to error. Thankfully they started standardizing the fillet shape and TRW made off the shelf bearings to fit.

The other way is a narrower bearing but I don't know how that will work with the thrust bearing. I kind'a surprised they would do that to the thrust considering it's dual function.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by glenB

The thrust flange is welded to the bearing shell, not the block. With the fillet rolled the way they are you will need to modify the stock bearing or ask where they got theirs. It's not typical to do this 'at home' any more. In the old days you would take a super fine file and chamfer the edge. It was tedious and prone to error. Thankfully they started standardizing the fillet shape and TRW made off the shelf bearings to fit.

The other way is a narrower bearing but I don't know how that will work with the thrust bearing. I kind'a surprised they would do that to the thrust considering it's dual function.

**Clevite does not currently offer a gen 5 LT1-specific main bearing set. The Clevite main bearing set used for all of the LSx engines will work, but it will require minor modification to the engine block for the center thrust bearing. If this could be an issue with your machine shop, please verify that they can perform the work properly! This is one of the things that will automatically be done if you purchase your engine from Texas Speed & Performance!"

The say the block needs to be modified.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...-warp-speed/#/

[oldman]

Heck have to steal a 7 speed out of a 2019 camaro