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Old 08-01-2020, 06:41 PM   #1
Bomicino
 
Drives: 2020 LT1
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Throttle closing during burnout

At the strip this week i had this happen 5 times. With TC off, id rev to 5k or so, dump the clutch and hop on the brake pedal. Id have my foot on the gas and could feel the throttle close before i could get the tires spinning. Then id depress clutch to prevent it from dying, and roll out of the box and would wheel hop a bit on top of everything. This fiasco combined with 2.0 60s on hoosier DRs ruined the night. What am i missing here?
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Old 08-02-2020, 07:03 PM   #2
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Are u holding the button until stabil is off too? Make sure they’re wet and dump it in 2nd
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Old 08-03-2020, 02:00 AM   #3
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if you heel toe it won't do that. if the car is moving at all, i think it is stability control cutting power.
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Old 08-04-2020, 09:00 PM   #4
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Thank you both. I have held the button down for 7+ seconds and the message didnt change. Maybe the LT1 has a different/lesser stability control? Ill have to try the heel toe, never done that before. The rolling forward combined with spinning does make sense as far as upsetting the cars nannys. Id practice in a parking lot, but my R888Rs were more than the Hoosiers. I appreciate the input.
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Old 08-05-2020, 02:23 PM   #5
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You wont get a message, just both the traction control and stabilitrac lights will come turn on.
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Old 12-01-2020, 03:10 PM   #6
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I held the button with my street tires and did get BOTH lights on my cluster, never with my radials on 17s. Wonder if the TPMS sensors had something to do with it.
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Old 12-01-2020, 08:31 PM   #7
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I heard you have to have all 4 sensors or none or things can get wacky with just two.
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Old 01-14-2021, 07:51 AM   #8
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Old thread, but may be useful after the thaw. Some, i.e., my 2016 1SS must have TPMS sensors or the computer will go into safe mode and shut down the throttle. It will also go into safe mode with mis-matched tire heights front and rear (confuses Stablitrac.) I know there are reports of lots of other cars that don't do this; mine does. Some have reported that you can get away with a 2" difference between front and rear tire height. Mine won't tolerate that much (1" to 1.5" at most). The people that I think are most knowledgeable about this topic say you should get the front and rear tire heights as close as you can to the same. So I have TPMS sensors with rubber valve stems in the front skinnies. Tracks want metal valve stems in race wheels, but they, so far, accept the explanation that the car has to have TPMS sensors in the front, especially since I have metal valve stems in the rear. Rears do not have TPMS sensors because the computer will also go into safe mode when I try to run 18 psi in the rears (thinks the car has a flat). So, in the trunk there is a Sch 40 3" pvc pipe 12" long, caped on both ends with a Schrader valve. Inside are two TPMS sensors programed to the car as left and right rear. Keep about 35-40 psi in the tube and the computer is happy.
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Old 01-16-2021, 01:44 PM   #9
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Wow, that is a great solution. Are the sensors glued to the inside, or simply placed in there? I may copy you, id like to put this issue in the rear view. Thanks for your input.
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:10 PM   #10
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Sensors are attached with tiny sheet metal screws and safety wire. Glue could also work well; just be careful with the little hole in the sensor that detects the air pressure. If I had it to do over, I would find flat end caps instead of the rounded ones. Would also consider mounting one of the sensors (maybe both) in the end caps instead of adding a Schroeder valve. That also solves the issue of how to mount the sensors. Also make the cylinder long enough to cut it off at one of the end caps and have enough room to put on a new end cap. That is the only way you can get inside to replace a sensor(s).
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