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Old 08-31-2017, 01:46 PM   #29
Kingpin2k7
 
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Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS M6 with NPP
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OP and anyone else who DIY, did you have a lift or did you use a jack and Jack-stands? I have The Rear Cradle Bushing kit, Front of rear Cradle brace, Trailing and Control arms, Toe Rods and the non adjustable front and rear sway bar kit. I am thinking about tackling it myself with one of my Buddies.

Also any tips on What not to do, and what type of Lubrication to use I have single adjustable arms and double adjustable Toe rods.

Last edited by Kingpin2k7; 08-31-2017 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 08-31-2017, 02:52 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Kingpin2k7 View Post
OP and anyone else who DIY, did you have a lift or did you use a jack and Jack-stands? I have The Rear Cradle Bushing kit, Front of rear Cradle brace, Trailing and Control arms, Toe Rods and the non adjustable front and rear sway bar kit. I am thinking about tackling it myself with one of my Buddies.

Also any tips on What not to do, and what type of Lubrication to use I have single adjustable arms and double adjustable Toe rods.
Everything you're talking about can be done on the ground. The only parts on the list that are going to be difficult are the sway bars. The belly pan needs to come off and the car needs to be jacked up pretty high for them. Also, you may need to disconnect the exhaust and let it hang to route the rear bar out and in. It can be done on the ground and we have a lot of customers that have done, but those are the tricky parts.

As far as grease, you are going to want to use a full synthetic grease. Petroleum-based grease will eventually break down the polyurethane.

If you have rod end parts, set the length to stock then have the alignment checked after the installation. If everything is set to factory length you should be very very close. Once its verified, go bat it up and enjoy!

Thanks,

Pete
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Old 08-31-2017, 03:10 PM   #31
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How long did it take you? Trying to plan my day around this if I do it.
Took me about 6 hrs by myself and it was my first time I ever did any suspension work. Spent most of the time trying to loosen a few bolts, and then a lot of time trying to torque to the right spec with the small amount of space I was with under back stands
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Old 08-31-2017, 03:12 PM   #32
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Took me about 6 hrs by myself and it was my first time I ever did any suspension work.
Thanks for the reply. Probably not going to be doing much else with the car. I'll be picking up a Hellcat in the spring.

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Old 08-31-2017, 05:23 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by BMR Suspension View Post
Everything you're talking about can be done on the ground. The only parts on the list that are going to be difficult are the sway bars. The belly pan needs to come off and the car needs to be jacked up pretty high for them. Also, you may need to disconnect the exhaust and let it hang to route the rear bar out and in. It can be done on the ground and we have a lot of customers that have done, but those are the tricky parts.

As far as grease, you are going to want to use a full synthetic grease. Petroleum-based grease will eventually break down the polyurethane.

If you have rod end parts, set the length to stock then have the alignment checked after the installation. If everything is set to factory length you should be very very close. Once its verified, go bat it up and enjoy!

Thanks,

Pete
Thanks, Looks like I am going to have to do my install in stages. I'll do the Diff Bushings, cradle Brace, rear sway bar first. Then the rest for stage 2.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:37 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Kingpin2k7 View Post
Thanks, Looks like I am going to have to do my install in stages. I'll do the Diff Bushings, cradle Brace, rear sway bar first. Then the rest for stage 2.
Keep in mind the diff and cradle bushings are going to increase NVH more than the other parts...
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:30 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Suspension View Post
Everything you're talking about can be done on the ground. The only parts on the list that are going to be difficult are the sway bars. The belly pan needs to come off and the car needs to be jacked up pretty high for them. Also, you may need to disconnect the exhaust and let it hang to route the rear bar out and in. It can be done on the ground and we have a lot of customers that have done, but those are the tricky parts.

As far as grease, you are going to want to use a full synthetic grease. Petroleum-based grease will eventually break down the polyurethane.

If you have rod end parts, set the length to stock then have the alignment checked after the installation. If everything is set to factory length you should be very very close. Once its verified, go bat it up and enjoy!

Thanks,

Pete

Pete, please punch Parker in the arm.

Thanks.
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:38 PM   #36
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Pete, please punch Parker in the arm.

Thanks.
No Problem!
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Old 01-12-2021, 06:02 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Suspension View Post
Everything you're talking about can be done on the ground. The only parts on the list that are going to be difficult are the sway bars. The belly pan needs to come off and the car needs to be jacked up pretty high for them. Also, you may need to disconnect the exhaust and let it hang to route the rear bar out and in. It can be done on the ground and we have a lot of customers that have done, but those are the tricky parts.

As far as grease, you are going to want to use a full synthetic grease. Petroleum-based grease will eventually break down the polyurethane.

If you have rod end parts, set the length to stock then have the alignment checked after the installation. If everything is set to factory length you should be very very close. Once its verified, go bat it up and enjoy!

Thanks,

Pete
Can I use Lucas Red & Tacky for control arms and trailing arms?
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Old 01-13-2021, 05:45 PM   #38
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Can I use Lucas Red & Tacky for control arms and trailing arms?
I would not use that grease. Use super lube or Green Grease.
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