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Old 03-17-2018, 12:55 PM   #1
Pollock
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BMR Cradle lockout kit. Give reviews please.

I realize bushing replacement is the best option but my car will remain stock for the most part and I am going to track the car not drag race. However I get wheel hop doing spirited driving and dont want to pop an axle or driveshaft.

This kit looks easy for a do it yourselfer and after watching the video it reduces cradle movement significantly.

So anyone have it. Do you like it.
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Old 03-17-2018, 02:27 PM   #2
parish8

 
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I have one. It is easy to install, lube the bullets up a lot.

I put on single adjustable everything back there and the cradle lock out kit and am very happy with the ride and quietness. I haven’t been able launch the car yet so I can’t report on how effective the parts are.
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best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 03-17-2018, 02:42 PM   #3
Pollock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
I have one. It is easy to install, lube the bullets up a lot.

I put on single adjustable everything back there and the cradle lock out kit and am very happy with the ride and quietness. I haven’t been able launch the car yet so I can’t report on how effective the parts are.
Why did you choose the adjustable stuff? I assume its a little stiffer.
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Old 03-17-2018, 03:10 PM   #4
parish8

 
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I figured the spherical ends would keep things in place a little better than poly.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 03-17-2018, 05:02 PM   #5
PolynesianPowerhouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
I have one. It is easy to install, lube the bullets up a lot.

I put on single adjustable everything back there and the cradle lock out kit and am very happy with the ride and quietness. I haven’t been able launch the car yet so I can’t report on how effective the parts are.
mine is sitting here in a box. did you DIY yours or did shop do em?

main worry is lowering the cradle. how much of a task is getting the cradle back up to where you reinstall the bolt?
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Old 03-17-2018, 05:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse View Post
mine is sitting here in a box. did you DIY yours or did shop do em?

main worry is lowering the cradle. how much of a task is getting the cradle back up to where you reinstall the bolt?
I did my gen 5 with poly bushings. After you get the car suppprted on jackstands you use the jack to raise and lower the cradle as needed.
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Old 03-17-2018, 05:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pollock View Post
I did my gen 5 with poly bushings. After you get the car suppprted on jackstands you use the jack to raise and lower the cradle as needed.
gotchya... so basically since you only do one side at a time (front/rear), you can wing it like that I'm guesing.

next question. did you jack it up from the center of the cradle or do you use two jacks, one for each side, like near the bushing.

prob overthinking it, or fearing the cradle is gonna drop faster and farther than it really does...
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When I see posts asking "whats the best intake, exhaust, etc" .... the answer to that is like a grandfather telling his grandkids "if you put salt on a birds tail, it'll let you catch it" #ThinkAboutIt

"Winning Tip: Don't take my (or anyone else's) word for it. GO TEST IT!" - Dennis Grant
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Old 03-17-2018, 05:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse View Post
gotchya... so basically since you only do one side at a time (front/rear), you can wing it like that I'm guesing.

next question. did you jack it up from the center of the cradle or do you use two jacks, one for each side, like near the bushing.

prob overthinking it, or fearing the cradle is gonna drop faster and farther than it really does...
Its been a little while but I think I kept one jack under the pumpkin and had a smaller second jack for the bushing I was working on.

The lockout kit you do the front first then the rear second. So the cradle will never be totally disconnected from the car. And since you are not burning bushings and pushing them out of the cradle I would think a center jack would be all you need.

I envision it as lower a few inches. Install parts and put back together in the same spot it came from.
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Old 03-17-2018, 07:08 PM   #9
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It was just a few weeks ago that I put them in but I don’t remember the exact process. It didn’t take long. I know my buddy had a harder time getting the bullets in so I covered them in grease and they went right in.

I used some long bolts through the old bars into the new bars to match up the lengths. I have been driving the car and haven’t even had an alignment yet.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 03-17-2018, 09:53 PM   #10
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I just dropped off my car this morning to have full bolt ons, cradle lock out and non adjustable upper and lower trailing arms and upper control arms installed. I spoke quite a bit with the Gen6 GM guy at BMR. He said that for straight line launching and traction, your best bang for the buck is the cradle lock out kit and the lower trailing arm. He said the two upper arms are a little more for tracking the car. He did say that he strongly recommends an alignment after the cradle lock out kit.

I should be picking up the car Thursday as long as all goes well. I’ll try to comment back after I’ve driven the car a bit.
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:28 PM   #11
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I have the cradle lockout kit, upper and lower trailing arms, (non adjustable) and toe rods, also have there lowering springs. Car tracks great now under WOT now, it took away the sway it would get. I kept the stock upper control arms because its a very hefty piece thats a boxed design and uses a spherical bearing or what ever, so not worth it to upgrade really unless your trying to build a autocross monster and even then i doubt it would really matter. As far as the adjustable stuff, im glade i didnt go with it, makes things harsher and im not auto crossing the car. This car is way more track capable than the 5th gens and you can do real aggressive alignments stock, so unless you building a track car that will be driven 80 percent on the track or are trying to make a drag car, i would not go with the adjustable stuff. You will only need the extra adjustment if your tying to go beyond the insane limit or have a weird setup. I had to get my car aligned 2 times because the first time the camber was within spec but there is a track alignment for this car making the "spec" a very wide range, i was wearing out the insides of my tires so i had to have it re aligned and i had to give em my specs to hit. Point being on a 5th gen youd run out of adjustment where this car is way more track focused and has a way wider range of adjustment. Also my buddy got trailing arms on his 5th gen that are the adjustable jointed kind, a different brand, i think PFDAT, and he has to tighten the joints up etc cause they loosen up and get play in em where i dont have to screw with mine besides a shot of grease every oil change. Long story short for a street car the non adjustable ones are probably the way to go for most people. Only other thing im doing to mine is the bmr sway bars and endlinks, gm strut tower brace possibly and a drive shaft safety loop. Install for the cradle lock out is easy, although i am a technician so i cant say its easy for everyone, took me probably 1.5 hrs or less.
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:13 PM   #12
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So I didn't get many pictures, but finally got em in.

for anyone looking to do this... DEF DO IT! I couldn't stress how important this is for getting more power to the ground instead of being lost in soft rubber.

The lack of subframe movement, gives more of a push from behind feeling under acceleration. I haven't gotten an alignment as of yet. still need to install the toe rods and the front radius arms from FE4 stuff, and the 1LE front suspension with camber plates, but that should be less tedious than dropping the cradle. it wasn't hard at all. and on the "fronts" the side closest to the engine, there is enough screw to have it hang a bit and still get It back up in there. the rears you need to def jack it back almost all the way up. however on an easy to hard scale of 5... its a 2 maybe a 3. just make sure you're on jackstands high enough to get yourself under the car... at my size, 3 ton ones are minimum.


Suspension wise, I prob should have done these first. maybe second after the swaybars... but its def a welcome addition to reduce wheel hop and get more of a feel of what the suspension is doing.

the cheaper routes would be full bushings and all, but it may take a bit more time to cut em out and replace em.






overall....really worth the effort to get em done. I def have to thank Stephen, one of the local guys in the Camaro group for the help and heavy duty tools. he also helped with an axle swap and the install of the rear v6 1LE springs and shocks.
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Don't sit around and watch everyone else live YOUR dreams...DO SUMPT'N

When I see posts asking "whats the best intake, exhaust, etc" .... the answer to that is like a grandfather telling his grandkids "if you put salt on a birds tail, it'll let you catch it" #ThinkAboutIt

"Winning Tip: Don't take my (or anyone else's) word for it. GO TEST IT!" - Dennis Grant
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Old 05-01-2018, 03:59 PM   #13
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I've been researching replacing my cradle and possibly control arm. I know this will help benefit at the dragstrip, but will it make things worse for autocross, or benefit?
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:05 PM   #14
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I've been researching replacing my cradle and possibly control arm. I know this will help benefit at the dragstrip, but will it make things worse for autocross, or benefit?
By leaps and bounds benefit.

Thats why thE zl1 1le uses SOLID ALUMINUM cradle bushings. Think about it
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Don't sit around and watch everyone else live YOUR dreams...DO SUMPT'N

When I see posts asking "whats the best intake, exhaust, etc" .... the answer to that is like a grandfather telling his grandkids "if you put salt on a birds tail, it'll let you catch it" #ThinkAboutIt

"Winning Tip: Don't take my (or anyone else's) word for it. GO TEST IT!" - Dennis Grant
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