08-17-2016, 11:48 AM | #15 | |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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After Driver Mods, I suggest Safety Mods, then Performance Mods |
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08-17-2016, 01:47 PM | #16 | |||
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Thousands of dollars in mods and tuning would net quite a bit of seat time... now I will be realistic with achieving 100% of a car's ability. That's not gonna happen unless you are an alien/pro driver. It's about the hobby and the passion. There is a point at which most drivers plateau (well below pro level for most of us) and then is when hey if you want to chase faster lap times sometimes it's easier to cheat a bit with mods Me for example, in both cars and bikes at the track, I tend to plateau at a very fast intermediate to mid pack advanced run groups. From there I would need serious / expensive coaching to get better. Not sure it's worth that kind of investment, at least with cars since I won't be racing it. Probably. Bikes, now there I might do so, because everything is cheaper, club racing is doable and I have a lot more on the table in my pace so the plateau can be broken through with quality seat time and some advanced instruction now and then. Anyway, overall I have to agree with you all. Adding power and other performance mods are just not necessary. Add reliability and safety, add seat time, and maybe help grip out a bit with good alignments... Quote:
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Fact is, I could keep this thing stock, go as fast as I think is humanly possible for the car, then hand it over to a pro and watch the lap times drop by decades. I'm 40 and hard headed. Will be tough to get past my plateau once I get there with this car. And that's ok for me, I'll enjoy it there and have fun with it. Anyway I'm looking forward to getting some good use out of this car, maybe I can post some data up for the lap time thread. |
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08-18-2016, 09:27 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2014 2LS (traded in) 2015 1SS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: New York
Posts: 2,132
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Don't be so quick to sell yourself short This car is really easy to drive really fast. You've already got some experience and there are some great instructors out there that are included with your HPDE fee when you run with certain organizations.
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08-18-2016, 01:08 PM | #18 |
We'll see how it goes! Since it's been a while (sheesh, I think 4-5 years now...) and I'm in a different layout car (rwd) I'll be placed in Novice/intermediate with an instructor for sure. Ok by me. Rather approach this car as a new experience and focus on smoothness.
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08-18-2016, 01:31 PM | #19 | |
Drives: 2014 2LS (traded in) 2015 1SS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: New York
Posts: 2,132
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08-18-2016, 04:03 PM | #20 |
Banned
Drives: 2011 Boxster Spyder (best car ever) Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: San Jose, Ca
Posts: 1,529
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SRF carbotech pads ducts done! If you are on a tight track like Laguna, you will probably need ZL1/6 piston calipers to displace the heat. My red 1le calipers were so hot ALL the red peeled off leaving raw metal. The 6 pistons never got hot enough to peel, but still they got VERY hot. The ONLY fluid that did not boil was SRF and I had to flush/fill each and every track day.
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08-20-2016, 03:30 PM | #21 | ||
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I used Motul RBF 600 fluid, it was fine but I did have brake issues when pushing for 3 time trial laps, could only get 2 before brakes went away. Was going to upgrade to stop tech bbk for the mazda but stopped the madness and got into bike madness. Castrol SRF is pricey, but seems like a good investment for this car. Ducts seem like a no brainer, too bad I can't fit the z/28 ducts in the '13. |
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