Multiple amps, what’s the bottleneck for the LTGs for power

Josh42089 · 05-25-2020, 05:13 PM

I’m in the process of putting together my audio system. Currently I have 2 12” DB Drives that are rated at 2500watts max. I have a 1600 watt pioneer amp powering them. They sound good but I have the basic interior speaker setup. Some songs lack clarity. Trying to decide if I should try and stick with a compatible speaker without adding an extra amp or not. If I were to add an extra amp would I start running into power issues? What is the bottle neck with the LTG for power when adding the extra accessories.
For those of you with a similar senario what did you have to do or got away with.
I’m thinking on adding a component speaker to the doors and a good set of tweeters. Thinking about just forgetting about the back speakers. They were only really useful for my signal for the amp.

900RFWN · 05-25-2020, 09:14 PM

I don’t have anything aftermarket in my Camaro now but I’ll give you my opinion. Pay no attention to peak numbers on any audio equipment. Stick to RMS. It seems that there are two GM alternators for the 6th gens, 145 & 170 amps. If I had the 140 I would try to keep the sum of all amps under 1400wrms and 1700wrms for the 170amp. I don’t like rear fill. So I always like to have a nice set of components(or two) up front that scream with a little over rms for each set for head room. So a class D monoblock for the sub(s) and class AB or D for components and disconnect all factory speakers that will not be used.

If you are concerned with amperage draw do the big three and maybe add an extra battery in the trunk. If you could find a HO alternator you would basically have no worries but I don’t think there’s much out there for ours. Sure there might be some shops that you could take your alternator to to get rewound but at what cost? How will the quality be? What will the idle amperage be because a lot of HO alts are weak at low RPM. 350 amps at 3000 rpm will not do you any good when it’s only 100 at 700 rpm. I’ve seen it.

Josh42089 · 05-25-2020, 11:25 PM

[QUOTE=900RFWN;10797625]I don’t have anything aftermarket in my Camaro now but I’ll give you my opinion. Pay no attention to peak numbers on any audio equipment. Stick to RMS. It seems that there are two GM alternators for the 6th gens, 145 & 170 amps. If I had the 140 I would try to keep the sum of all amps under 1400wrms and 1700wrms for the 170amp. I don’t like rear fill. So I always like to have a nice set of components(or two) up front that scream with a little over rms for each set for head room. So a class D monoblock for the sub(s) and class AB or D for components and disconnect all factory speakers that will not be used.
I know the subs are 1200rms. Amp is 800rms. Not sure if I can get away by just swapping for some components and tweeters without adding an amp that will help balance the system or if I def will need an amp to power higher rated speakers

900RFWN · 05-26-2020, 08:24 AM

Aftermarket speakers will sound better even off of factory HU power however they won’t shine until you throw an amp on them. If you like matching amps get yourself another Pioneer for your components/coaxials. Even a little one that provides 50wrms per channel will make them sound good. You should be good electrical wise. After having said setup if you see the car is holding up you can upgrade the sub amp if you want.

05-25-2020, 05:13 PM	#1
Josh42089 Drives: 19 Chevy Camaro LTa Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Ontario Posts: 49	Multiple amps, what’s the bottleneck for the LTGs for power I’m in the process of putting together my audio system. Currently I have 2 12” DB Drives that are rated at 2500watts max. I have a 1600 watt pioneer amp powering them. They sound good but I have the basic interior speaker setup. Some songs lack clarity. Trying to decide if I should try and stick with a compatible speaker without adding an extra amp or not. If I were to add an extra amp would I start running into power issues? What is the bottle neck with the LTG for power when adding the extra accessories. For those of you with a similar senario what did you have to do or got away with. I’m thinking on adding a component speaker to the doors and a good set of tweeters. Thinking about just forgetting about the back speakers. They were only really useful for my signal for the amp.

05-25-2020, 09:14 PM	#2
900RFWN Drives: ‘18 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Texas Posts: 155	I don’t have anything aftermarket in my Camaro now but I’ll give you my opinion. Pay no attention to peak numbers on any audio equipment. Stick to RMS. It seems that there are two GM alternators for the 6th gens, 145 & 170 amps. If I had the 140 I would try to keep the sum of all amps under 1400wrms and 1700wrms for the 170amp. I don’t like rear fill. So I always like to have a nice set of components(or two) up front that scream with a little over rms for each set for head room. So a class D monoblock for the sub(s) and class AB or D for components and disconnect all factory speakers that will not be used. If you are concerned with amperage draw do the big three and maybe add an extra battery in the trunk. If you could find a HO alternator you would basically have no worries but I don’t think there’s much out there for ours. Sure there might be some shops that you could take your alternator to to get rewound but at what cost? How will the quality be? What will the idle amperage be because a lot of HO alts are weak at low RPM. 350 amps at 3000 rpm will not do you any good when it’s only 100 at 700 rpm. I’ve seen it.

05-25-2020, 11:25 PM	#3
Josh42089 Drives: 19 Chevy Camaro LTa Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Ontario Posts: 49	[QUOTE=900RFWN;10797625]I don’t have anything aftermarket in my Camaro now but I’ll give you my opinion. Pay no attention to peak numbers on any audio equipment. Stick to RMS. It seems that there are two GM alternators for the 6th gens, 145 & 170 amps. If I had the 140 I would try to keep the sum of all amps under 1400wrms and 1700wrms for the 170amp. I don’t like rear fill. So I always like to have a nice set of components(or two) up front that scream with a little over rms for each set for head room. So a class D monoblock for the sub(s) and class AB or D for components and disconnect all factory speakers that will not be used. I know the subs are 1200rms. Amp is 800rms. Not sure if I can get away by just swapping for some components and tweeters without adding an amp that will help balance the system or if I def will need an amp to power higher rated speakers

05-26-2020, 08:24 AM	#4
900RFWN Drives: ‘18 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Texas Posts: 155	Aftermarket speakers will sound better even off of factory HU power however they won’t shine until you throw an amp on them. If you like matching amps get yourself another Pioneer for your components/coaxials. Even a little one that provides 50wrms per channel will make them sound good. You should be good electrical wise. After having said setup if you see the car is holding up you can upgrade the sub amp if you want.

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