[Arka]

For 100-200 usd they charge for the tune, maybe it would be better to negotiate the full install with the dealership.

[Hyper1SS]

Originally Posted by cheap

I got the software updated after some difficulty at the dealership; they wanted the part and serial # from the box (which I'd already thrown away) or the bag (which I'd already thrown away). After some very unhappy exchanges with the tech and service mgr the shop foreman offered to help and then 30m later told me the authorization code I had was used already and there was nothing I could do. I left, unhappy, but got a call this morning that GM contacted them last night and said they'd do it but I wouldn't get the TSCS rebate with my auth code (to save the $50 they charge the dealership for the phone call).

Afterwards I got a call from the dealership saying it didn't work. I picked the car up and had the same problem HumanWiki had and after stopping for gas on the way home the rest of the menu came up. The door panels don't light up and the strip around the LCD screen is lit but doesn't respond to color change demands so I'll be checking my wiring later (I can't remember if I unplugged the control module while waiting to finish the wiring or not). Fingers crossed it is an obvious/easy fix - some of those connectors were BITCHES to get to.

I hope you get it worked out and it is something simple on your end. I bought the upgrade when I ordered my 1SS as a LPO. It came in a box in the trunk but I wanted to install it myself so I did just that. When I took it in to get programmed the first time they kept telling me I did not have something wired right. I knew that was not the case but after them trying on their end for 3 hours I told them I would take it back home and go back through everything again. Everything lit up with my tester so took it back a couple days later after I talked to a GM engineer and they said it was on the dealerships end because they only flashed the BCM like the paperwork said but they would also have to flash the HMI. So after all of that and telling them what they needed to do we got it all work. Even though it was a pain in the ass to install I am happy I went with the upgrade and it's working properly. I am going to try to do the radio next week.

[chris227]

Originally Posted by cheap

I got the software updated after some difficulty at the dealership; they wanted the part and serial # from the box (which I'd already thrown away) or the bag (which I'd already thrown away). After some very unhappy exchanges with the tech and service mgr the shop foreman offered to help and then 30m later told me the authorization code I had was used already and there was nothing I could do. I left, unhappy, but got a call this morning that GM contacted them last night and said they'd do it but I wouldn't get the TSCS rebate with my auth code (to save the $50 they charge the dealership for the phone call).

Afterwards I got a call from the dealership saying it didn't work. I picked the car up and had the same problem HumanWiki had and after stopping for gas on the way home the rest of the menu came up. The door panels don't light up and the strip around the LCD screen is lit but doesn't respond to color change demands so I'll be checking my wiring later (I can't remember if I unplugged the control module while waiting to finish the wiring or not). Fingers crossed it is an obvious/easy fix - some of those connectors were BITCHES to get to.

The light over the radio does not change color unless you replace the LEDs with the correct RGB LEDs.and add the wiring. They only contain white LEDs if you didn't have the spectrum lighting to begin with.

[jowens000]

Wonder how much it would cost if you just had the dealer install this?

[cheap]

I'm troubleshooting my system and could use some help from someone that knows how to use a multimeter with this system installed. Neither door panel or footwell light works.

I have the controls on the center display and can change my selected lighting color on the display, so I think the flash worked correctly and there must be a problem with my wiring. I shot the wires at the control module and here's what I got (pin 1 being the first red wire just like the figure in step 19):

pin 1: 5.68v
2: .5v
3. varies w/ color selected
4. varies w/color selected (but 12 when the harness was disconnected from the control box)
5. 12v
7. 3.46v
8. 3.46v
16: 3.46v
18: ground (good continuity)

I disconnected the harness from one of the footwell lights and measured the voltage there too:

Red: .53v
black: ground, good continuity
purple: 3.3V no matter the color

Since the wiring at pins 3 and 4 vary with the color selected, I think my good flash is confirmed. I suspect my problem might be pin 2 voltage; .53v going to the lights as what is likely supposed to be the hot lead doesn't sound right. When I disconnect the module the voltage for pin 2 drops to 0, but slowly (over the course of 10 seconds or so) almost as if the multimeter is draining it... when I disconnect the meter and then go back to recheck the voltage it is usually about where it left off and then continues to drain (again, this is with the connector disconnected).

Thoughts? Can anyone pull that passenger side panel and take some readings to help me figure out WTF is going on?

[chris227]

Originally Posted by cheap

I'm troubleshooting my system and could use some help from someone that knows how to use a multimeter with this system installed. Neither door panel or footwell light works.

I have the controls on the center display and can change my selected lighting color on the display, so I think the flash worked correctly and there must be a problem with my wiring. I shot the wires at the control module and here's what I got (pin 1 being the first red wire just like the figure in step 19):

pin 1: 5.68v
2: .5v
3. varies w/ color selected
4. varies w/color selected (but 12 when the harness was disconnected from the control box)
5. 12v
7. 3.46v
8. 3.46v
16: 3.46v
18: ground (good continuity)

I disconnected the harness from one of the footwell lights and measured the voltage there too:

Red: .53v
black: ground, good continuity
purple: 3.3V no matter the color

Since the wiring at pins 3 and 4 vary with the color selected, I think my good flash is confirmed. I suspect my problem might be pin 2 voltage; .53v going to the lights as what is likely supposed to be the hot lead doesn't sound right. When I disconnect the module the voltage for pin 2 drops to 0, but slowly (over the course of 10 seconds or so) almost as if the multimeter is draining it... when I disconnect the meter and then go back to recheck the voltage it is usually about where it left off and then continues to drain (again, this is with the connector disconnected).

Thoughts? Can anyone pull that passenger side panel and take some readings to help me figure out WTF is going on?

I would suggest to just go back over the entire install and recheck everything. sounds like its where you installed the control module. Just double check the modules main wiring into the system. I can check voltage but it won't be until this weekend that i have a chance to do it.

[cheap]

Yup, did that first. At least I checked the taps and the pins going into the main connectors under the driver and passenger dash areas. I didn't pull the door panels or recheck the pins into the door connectors, so there's a small chance one of those wires is mis-pinned and causing some erroneous feedback that's screwing with the system but I would suspect if one of them were mis-pinned I just wouldn't have that one door functioning correctly.

The car is at the dealership now for an unrelated issue and they *should* be checking the control module for me if they have a spare in stock.

[vaspen]

Will any of this effect a ecu tune?

[IanCC]

Hey Hyper.

I'm really interested in trying this for my 1LT. It looks like it would be much easier to let the dealer do it but I like a challenge and may learn a few things along the way. How many hours do you think it took you overall? Anything you'd do differently the second time around? Any did the documents you posted come with the kit?

Thanks,

Ian

[Hyper1SS]

Originally Posted by IanCC

Hey Hyper.

I'm really interested in trying this for my 1LT. It looks like it would be much easier to let the dealer do it but I like a challenge and may learn a few things along the way. How many hours do you think it took you overall? Anything you'd do differently the second time around? Any did the documents you posted come with the kit?

Thanks,

Ian

Hello.it took me around 4 hours minus pulling the door panels off and putting them back on. I would take the same steps I took before. Documentation came with the kit.

[Hyper1SS]

Originally Posted by cheap

Yup, did that first. At least I checked the taps and the pins going into the main connectors under the driver and passenger dash areas. I didn't pull the door panels or recheck the pins into the door connectors, so there's a small chance one of those wires is mis-pinned and causing some erroneous feedback that's screwing with the system but I would suspect if one of them were mis-pinned I just wouldn't have that one door functioning correctly.

The car is at the dealership now for an unrelated issue and they *should* be checking the control module for me if they have a spare in stock.

It sounds like they did not flash the system right. Make sure they flash the BCM and HMI. Hope you get it figured out.

[IanCC]

Originally Posted by Hyper1SS

Hello.it took me around 4 hours minus pulling the door panels off and putting them back on. I would take the same steps I took before. Documentation came with the kit.

Sounds good to me. Thanks!

[Isthisnickg]

Originally Posted by Hyper1SS

A picture of the interior spectrum lighting dark night and spectrum footwell lighting installed.

Was it worth it? Can I see pics of them actually lit up? Are you able to change the colors like the factory 2ss model?

[Coded4SS]

Does anyone know if this will work for a 2020 1ss 1le? And also how can I tell which stereo I have so I know which lights to buy?