[RyanR623]

Hmm another bearing failure. My #6 bearing detonated with 18.5k miles on it causing similar damage. How many miles did you have on it?

[Uncle Sam]

A quick FYI: running sphericals on the street, way dirtier and way more miles than the track only, can collect fine dust and grit and grind them leaving them loose.

[NeverDie]

Or, if you race in Arizona, on the actual track itself. :(

[jcocke23]

Originally Posted by RyanR623

Hmm another bearing failure. My #6 bearing detonated with 18.5k miles on it causing similar damage. How many miles did you have on it?

7100

[jcocke23]

Originally Posted by Uncle Sam

A quick FYI: running sphericals on the street, way dirtier and way more miles than the track only, can collect fine dust and grit and grind them leaving them loose.

Excellent point! I'm sure thats why the OEM sphericals on the Camaro have the rubber boots. I'm not going full change out to sphericals yet. Its not a race car, but it is used on the track more than the street.

[jcocke23]

Couple of videos today while working on the Camaro...just a quick overview of all the rear suspension links, as well as my installation of the BMR Lockout kit.

Gen 6 Lockout Kit

Control Arm Overview

PS, I suck at this stuff...have to use my 11 year old to help me the whole time!

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by jcocke23

Just some advice for everyone running e85. Change your oil, OFTEN. Consider having an oil analysis done. Run a good oil designed for e85. Consider running a notch thicker than the manual suggests for heavy tracking. Don't run the e85 all the time...run some POG (plain ole gas) through it everyone couple tanks or so.

Interesting point, but how would e85 affect the oil? Unless it could be that AFR was too rich at that point, so that maybe too much fuel ended up in the oil sump and caused dilution?
BtW: Which oil brand / oil grade were you running on when the damage occurred?

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Interesting point, but how would e85 affect the oil? Unless it could be that AFR was too rich at that point, so that maybe too much fuel ended up in the oil sump and caused dilution?
BtW: Which oil brand / oil grade were you running on when the damage occurred?

e85 by nature runs much richer, GDI blasts fuel right at the pistons/rings/cylinder walls, e85 doesn't evaporate in the crankcase like gasoline, this leaves you with contaminated oil.

I asked already, he was running Valvoline MST 5w40 dexos2.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

e85 by nature runs much richer, GDI blasts fuel right at the pistons/rings/cylinder walls, e85 doesn't evaporate in the crankcase like gasoline, this leaves you with contaminated oil.

I asked already, he was running Valvoline MST 5w40 dexos2.

Alright. Got it. I never used mixes of eXX as part of my fueling programs, either pure 93 or additional 25-30% of Toluene, when I had to raise Octane levels due to timing advance requests.
So my understanding is that using e as part of the fueling program can be quite risky.
Thanks for filling me in on the oil that was used - The variety of Dexos2 / ACEA C3 / BMW LL-04 / VW 505.01, Etc. formulas are usually mid/low SAPS, which potentially have less of a lubrication effect, however, on the other hand ,with the advantage of strong detergents, which can better fight off carbon/sludge build-ups. These kind of formulas are especially useful in keeping GDI engines cleaner (and CATs / DPFs as well)

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Alright. Got it. I never used mixes of eXX as part of my fueling programs, either pure 93 or additional 25-30% of Toluene, when I had to raise Octane levels due to timing advance requests.
So my understanding is that using e as part of the fueling program can be quite risky.
Thanks for filling me in on the oil that was used - The variety of Dexos2 / ACEA C3 / BMW LL-04 / VW 505.01, Etc. formulas are usually mid/low SAPS, which potentially have less of a lubrication effect, however, on the other hand ,with the advantage of strong detergents, which can better fight off carbon/sludge build-ups. These kind of formulas are especially useful in keeping GDI engines cleaner (and CATs / DPFs as well)

There were a few times I made "octane booster" but could never find Toluene locally and had to use Xylene.
Didn't think many knew the old octane recipes back from the Turbo Buicks in the '80's and '90's.

When OP originally posted the carnage I was curious which oil was used, same oil I'm running right now.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

There were a few times I made "octane booster" but could never find Toluene locally and had to use Xylene.
Didn't think many knew the old octane recipes back from the Turbo Buicks in the '80's and '90's.

When OP originally posted the carnage I was curious which oil was used, same oil I'm running right now.

Xylene has a similar effect as Toluene and has a slightly higher Octane rating too. It costs a little more though.
Regarding the oil: Change it as often as you can (try not to exceed 5K Miles) and you should never have an issue with proper lubrication. Any reputable brand you decide to use is fine - not so critical, as long as it is up to Spec.

[jcocke23]

Here is a little update...installed the Vorshlag camber plates and a little overview/install video here.

Still waiting on the motor from Katech.

Ordered the AWE Touring Catback to help eliminate some of the raspiness (sp?) of the stock NPP with LTs.

This week I plan to install the AEM wideband and wrap the airbox and filter tube...stay tuned!

[jcocke23]

Been a while since I posted an update to the build, but I have been making progress. Still waiting on the engine from Katech, but that hasn't stopped me from doing other things. Check out the videos for the suspension upgrades, Fire suppression system, and the AWE Exhaust! They are all on the Track Carz youtube channel.

https://youtu.be/DI2V2xOnEjg

https://youtu.be/qywduxPMR0k

https://youtu.be/UGcHH4Luu4Q