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Old 04-08-2023, 04:54 PM   #1
Z OH 6


 
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Cam Driveability

I'm considering adding a mild cam to my ZL1 at some point this year, not looking for a huge bump in power because I already have more than I can use on street tires but the additional fueling is obviously a plus and being honest I just want a slightly choppier idle but nothing too serious so it will likely be a stage 1 or 2 cam depending on the manufacturer. My question for those of you have cams installed.

1. Do you notice ANY loss of drivability at idle or right off-idle? This is REALLY important to me so when I ask this, I'm asking for 100% honesty, not minor issues but you have learned to live with it.

2. Did it shift your torque curve upwards or did it just add more power up top without affecting the torque off idle?

3. Anything at all you regret about your cam install?

TIA
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Old 04-09-2023, 12:19 AM   #2
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My car has always has a really bad off idle dead spot, even when it was stock. I probably should've had tuner address it more but I was already used to it and the car runs great. The only thing I regret is when I did the cam I also did headers and it is just a little too loud and loses tone, some blat it sounds like, in the mid range...but not the cams fault. People who know cars love to hear it as its sorta rare these days, and I fully admit I did it mainly for the fun noises
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Old 04-09-2023, 05:56 AM   #3
Z OH 6


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvandy50 View Post
My car has always has a really bad off idle dead spot, even when it was stock. I probably should've had tuner address it more but I was already used to it and the car runs great. The only thing I regret is when I did the cam I also did headers and it is just a little too loud and loses tone, some blat it sounds like, in the mid range...but not the cams fault. People who know cars love to hear it as its sorta rare these days, and I fully admit I did it mainly for the fun noises
Thanks for the honesty, sir.
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Old 04-09-2023, 07:16 AM   #4
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I have a BTR stg II cam. I have no stutter on takeoff and it drives as normal. It does rock the car some at stops with a little bit of bucking but, nothing serious. I might get a different tq converter at some point but, in no hurry. The tune is the most important part of the install and determines how much cam lope you will get. I also had a TCM tune at the time of my build and shift points were addressed. Can't over emphasize the tune. Here is my cam video.

https://youtu.be/5-SbXrhN8nU
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Old 04-09-2023, 07:38 AM   #5
RobZL1
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I haven't tuned a 6th Gen camaro cam yet, so take this for what its worth:

My experience tuning a couple of 5th gen ZL1 cams- since the blower cams typically have zero overlap, plus or minus, it's pretty easy to get them to play nice off idle and low throttle. The bigger overlap stuff on N/A cars is where you have to adjust more in the tune.

Again, haven't done a gen V gm computer with a cam yet, but even with the torque based control, dynamics are still dynamics, so I assume it to be similar.
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Old 04-09-2023, 09:11 AM   #6
Z OH 6


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin19 View Post
I have a BTR stg II cam. I have no stutter on takeoff and it drives as normal. It does rock the car some at stops with a little bit of bucking but, nothing serious. I might get a different tq converter at some point but, in no hurry. The tune is the most important part of the install and determines how much cam lope you will get. I also had a TCM tune at the time of my build and shift points were addressed. Can't over emphasize the tune. Here is my cam video.

https://youtu.be/5-SbXrhN8nU
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Old 04-09-2023, 09:22 AM   #7
Z OH 6


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZL1 View Post
I haven't tuned a 6th Gen camaro cam yet, so take this for what its worth:

My experience tuning a couple of 5th gen ZL1 cams- since the blower cams typically have zero overlap, plus or minus, it's pretty easy to get them to play nice off idle and low throttle. The bigger overlap stuff on N/A cars is where you have to adjust more in the tune.

Again, haven't done a gen V gm computer with a cam yet, but even with the torque based control, dynamics are still dynamics, so I assume it to be similar.

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Old 04-09-2023, 10:34 AM   #8
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Check out Cam motion. They have some nice stage 1 and 2 camas that also have the 38% fuel lobe. I also believe they have the best quality cam cores available to the masses
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Old 04-09-2023, 10:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sillysspeed View Post
Check out Cam motion. They have some nice stage 1 and 2 camas that also have the 38% fuel lobe. I also believe they have the best quality cam cores available to the masses
I also suggest you call Cam Motion, you can tell them what you want, and what your goals are, and they will spec a cam for you. You get to choose between 32%, 38%, or even 43% fuel lobe. (43% only works with the LPE big bore pump)
I have their PD Stage 1 cam (220/236-118) with an overlap of -8° it idles as smooth as stock. Which was important for me with our strict emission laws. Driveability is awesome, it drives just like oem. With the mods in my signature peak torque is at 4500rpm.
My only regret is that I only went with the 32% fuel lobe, but back then I was not planning to take the build as far as where i'm at with it today.

Judging by your questions: you should try to keep the overlap as small as possible for driveability, and off idle torque. But you won't get the coppy idle with that.
"Less overlap increases efficiency by reducing the amount of raw fuel that escapes through the exhaust, while improving low-end response due to less reversion of the exhaust gases back up the intake port; the result is better idle, a stronger vacuum signal, and improved fuel economy."
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Last edited by swisstyphoon; 04-09-2023 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 04-09-2023, 11:50 AM   #10
Z OH 6


 
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Thanks guys. I'm familiar with cam overlap and lobe separation and it's effects on idle quality. Just curious to hear your experiences with a cam in this platform specifically.
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Old 04-09-2023, 09:25 PM   #11
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I believe on my rebuild we used a 32% cam. Idle is a little choppy which wasn’t something I was necessarily looking for. Recently been having a surging/bucking issue at part throttle and since I no longer do rodeo I opted to get it back to the shop to address that in the tune.

I know this isn’t part of the hot rod priority, but mpg when cruising at 65mph was 25mpg before the cam and sc porting and now it’s around 19-20. Noticeable when jamming on a road course.
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Old 04-10-2023, 03:52 AM   #12
Z OH 6


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbs1 View Post
I believe on my rebuild we used a 32% cam. Idle is a little choppy which wasn’t something I was necessarily looking for. Recently been having a surging/bucking issue at part throttle and since I no longer do rodeo I opted to get it back to the shop to address that in the tune.

I know this isn’t part of the hot rod priority, but mpg when cruising at 65mph was 25mpg before the cam and sc porting and now it’s around 19-20. Noticeable when jamming on a road course.
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Old 04-10-2023, 09:16 AM   #13
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I would recommend keeping the intake duration under 220 with a 114-115 lsa and it should produce a mild lope and maintain close to stock driving manners.

The new revised BTR cams are pretty solid. Stage 1 PDS or Supercharger would be a good option for most builds. No need to go any larger unless you are shooting for 1000+ whp...otherwise you are just sacrificing drivability for a few extra hp. The stage 2 stuff really needs a converter even though some claim it works with stock vert. It does but it's on the edge.

Don't listen to anyone who says "I run a stage 3 and it drives like stock, it's all in the tune". No it doesn't and no it's not. Some peoples view on what can be considered "stock like" is skewed. While proper tuning is critical you can only do so much with a cam that has positive overlap.
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Old 04-10-2023, 09:23 AM   #14
Z OH 6


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
I would recommend keeping the intake duration under 220 with a 114-115 lsa and it should produce a mild lope and maintain close to stock driving manners.

The new revised BTR cams are pretty solid. Stage 1 PDS or Supercharger would be a good option for most builds. No need to go any larger unless you are shooting for 1000+ whp...otherwise you are just sacrificing drivability for a few extra hp. The stage 2 stuff really needs a converter even though some claim it works with stock vert. It does but it's on the edge.

Don't listen to anyone who says "I run a stage 3 and it drives like stock, it's all in the tune". No it doesn't and no it's not. Some peoples view on what can be considered "stock like" is skewed. While proper tuning is critical you can only do so much with a cam that has positive overlap.
Thank you sir.
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