[MrRuss]

ImmDanny, don't fall for any of that used car salesman BS. It's their job to part you with as much money as they can, they are not on your side. A brand new 2018 2SS with what you want (maybe not the red interior) can be found here in Phoenix for under $40K. If you are Ok with that price, get new.

I've bought and sold many cars in my lifetime and my dad sold cars for 30 years. Was a general manager when he got out. Got a lot of good advise from him.


You sound like you have already driven one and know what you want. Use Cars.com and Auto Trader to find a couple of cars that fit, call them and ask them to email you their best "OUT THE DOOR" price. Be sure to get all the price details; price, tax, doc fee. Play them against each other. True Car is a good resource as well. Be fair but demand fairness in return. DON'T go in except to sign and drive away. DON'T pay for any dealer installed extras, it's nothing but pure profit for them and never worth the price. If you get there and they try to hang it on you, tell 'em it's not what they agreed to in the email exchange and walk out the door. 9 times out of 10 they will not let you leave and remove it. It does take a little extra time and homework but you will be glad you were patient in the end.

If you have an upside down trade in or less than good credit, you might have less bargaining power.

[ImmDanny]

Originally Posted by MrRuss

ImmDanny, don't fall for any of that used car salesman BS. It's their job to part you with as much money as they can, they are not on your side. A brand new 2018 2SS with what you want (maybe not the red interior) can be found here in Phoenix for under $40K. If you are Ok with that price, get new.

I've bought and sold many cars in my lifetime and my dad sold cars for 30 years. Was a general manager when he got out. Got a lot of good advise from him.


You sound like you have already driven one and know what you want. Use Cars.com and Auto Trader to find a couple of cars that fit, call them and ask them to email you their best "OUT THE DOOR" price. Be sure to get all the price details; price, tax, doc fee. Play them against each other. True Car is a good resource as well. Be fair but demand fairness in return. DON'T go in except to sign and drive away. DON'T pay for any dealer installed extras, it's nothing but pure profit for them and never worth the price. If you get there and they try to hang it on you, tell 'em it's not what they agreed to in the email exchange and walk out the door. 9 times out of 10 they will not let you leave and remove it. It does take a little extra time and homework but you will be glad you were patient in the end.

If you have an upside down trade in or less than good credit, you might have less bargaining power.

Thank you for the response. I've spent the past couple weeks looking at new originally. I even test drove one this past weekend. However, unless I'm really missing them, I'm not finding much under $40k and I've used Cars.com, Cargurus.com, True Car. There was really only 2 that met my wants. One of them played games to get me in without giving me an actual OTD price, and when I played their game and went in I couldn't even see the car before talking numbers so I left. The other was a better experience, although the car lacked MRC and black wheels (I know you can get wheels anytime so it didn't bother me). But their best OTD price was $44k, and that was even after some negotiating and them throwing in their "flex" cash they get each month.

I've even looked at new cars across the states, and none of them came close to $44k OTD, then again some had MRC or other options that make the MSRP higher from the get go.

Unfortunately for me, $44k is just a tad bit more than I can do, I mean its doable but more than I wanted. If it was the perfect car I would've signed that day, but since it sort of just "works" I wasn't comfortable taking the plunge.

Luckily however, I'm going in this with a clean slate. It'll be my first car that isn't a $3000 beater, so I'm not trading anything in that's negative (well I'm not trading anything in at all either) and I have pretty decent credit, not excellent but also not sub-prime.

[MrRuss]

Hmmm, I counted 8 2SS cars on Cars.com at $38K - $39K, adding 8.5% sales tax, ~$650 Title fee and $500 doc fee comes to $43,465. Are you sure they weren't trying to stick you with "Dealer added Options"? that could be anywhere from $1500 to $3000.


If you are still not comfortable with $43 - $44K then go used but use the same advise. I got mine used that way, only went to the dealer to check the car, drive and then sign the papers.

[ImmDanny]

Originally Posted by MrRuss

Hmmm, I counted 8 2SS cars on Cars.com at $38K - $39K, adding 8.5% sales tax, ~$650 Title fee and $500 doc fee comes to $43,465. Are you sure they weren't trying to stick you with "Dealer added Options"? that could be anywhere from $1500 to $3000.


If you are still not comfortable with $43 - $44K then go used but use the same advise. I got mine used that way, only went to the dealer to check the car, drive and then sign the papers.

Oh yeah there’s a bunch that are $38k but that’s if you apply for every single rebate and incentive they have such as owning a mustang, leasing a car etc. So if you don’t then it’s reallt $41-$42k before taxes and fees.

[786tech]

I'm in the same boat. Looking for a Red Hot 1le for under $40k drive out or willing to consider a used 2016+ Red Hot 1le for under 35k. The 2019 build and price was supposed to go live today, Aug 20 on Chevy's website but haven't seen it yet. Labor day is coming as well. Between now and December it's just a waiting game. Setup your auto notifications on all the websites and hurry up and wait

[ImmDanny]

Originally Posted by 786tech

I'm in the same boat. Looking for a Red Hot 1le for under $40k drive out or willing to consider a used 2016+ Red Hot 1le for under 35k. The 2019 build and price was supposed to go live today, Aug 20 on Chevy's website but haven't seen it yet. Labor day is coming as well. Between now and December it's just a waiting game. Setup your auto notifications on all the websites and hurry up and wait

I've seen red hot 1LE's for around $38k-$39k new but im sure thats with all the rebates they can throw at it and not OTD of course. My fallback to not finding a 2SS would be 1SS 1LE but its just as hard.

[ecko04]

Originally Posted by ImmDanny

What does the chevy extended plan have and how much does it cost? I'm new to car buying and the overall consensus from friends and family is CPO is better. Obviously they might not be the most well informed but its what I've had to reference so far.



Only reason I've been looking at CPO's is because any car that meets most of my wants is far away. So I can't go look at it and be thorough. My thought process is, find one that fits the wants and price, get it with CPO so in case something comes up I should be covered and I know its been looked at "thoroughly". Now whether it actually is or isn't I guess I can't know.



There is one non CPO that I found that hits everything aesthetic wise, just lacks MRC. It's actually middle of the road from the 2 I mentioned above in price. One thing that concerns me however is that the rotors look... weird. I'm not sure if they're rusty or dirty or what but to me just doesn't look right. Maybe its nothing, just surface rust. But then it makes me wonder how the rest of the car is and what I can't see in the pictures. Their google reviews shows 4.3/5 with 170 reviews so obviously its not a scam place.

Chevy Extended Protection Plan is basically an extended bumper-to-bumper protection plan. Got my 2016 2SS NPP, M6, MagRide, Sunroof, Black Mosaic, Kalahari and I’m sure I’m missing some stuff for $30K OTD last November. It had 6800 miles. In December I added a 72month/100,000 mile $0 deductible Chevy Extended Protection Plan for $2,245.

You need to do more research on what a CPO Chevy actually covers, it’s more marketing than usefulness. CPO does not cover “if something comes up”. The CPO warranty is a limited powertrain warranty for 72/100,000. If your “something came up” issue isn’t engine, transmission or differential related, and you’re out of bumper-to-bumper 36/36,000, then you’re on the hook for the repairs.

And you need to expand the area that you’re willing to get the car. I flew to Iowa for mine and drove back to Virginia. Sometimes to get the best deals you need to shop outside of what may be an hour drive or two especially if it’s checking all the boxes for you.


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[ImmDanny]

Originally Posted by ecko04

Chevy Extended Protection Plan is basically an extended bumper-to-bumper protection plan. Got my 2016 2SS NPP, M6, MagRide, Sunroof, Black Mosaic, Kalahari and I’m sure I’m missing some stuff for $30K OTD last November. It had 6800 miles. In December I added a 72month/100,000 mile $0 deductible Chevy Extended Protection Plan for $2,245.

You need to do more research on what a CPO Chevy actually covers, it’s more marketing than usefulness. CPO does not cover “if something comes up”. The CPO warranty is a limited powertrain warranty for 72/100,000. If your “something came up” issue isn’t engine, transmission or differential related, and you’re out of bumper-to-bumper 36/36,000, then you’re on the hook for the repairs.

And you need to expand the area that you’re willing to get the car. I flew to Iowa for mine and drove back to Virginia. Sometimes to get the best deals you need to shop outside of what may be an hour drive or two especially if it’s checking all the boxes for you.


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Ah yeah the extended plan does sound a bit better then. I just figured the CPO gives me some extra reassurance. Also trust me I’ve expanded my search to the entire country. Right now I have one in Wisconsin and one in Ohio that are the most promising (mentioned earlier). I’m in Arizona so I’m searching far and wide.

Also regarding your price, either the markets changed and demand has gone up raising the prices or you just found the best deal on earth as I’ve looked at probably 30+ cars that fit my wants/colors etc and only ones I’ve found even close to that (still $32k BEFORE taxes and fees) had damage reported on carfax.

[DavidinGA]

Deals come to them who wait.

Be patient and keep looking...


There are a bunch of optionally extended warranty options you can go with to maintain full bumper to bumper coverage on the vehicle past the GM warranty period if that's a concern...

[ChickenPoop]

The CPO gives you 12 months and 12000 miles of bumper to bumper warranty on top of what factory 3/36 you have left.

[JefemanG]

Also consider waiting a bit longer for Winter to roll around. Get the new batch of incentives and usually a larger pool of cars to choose from. All the best deals I've ever gotten are either during Winter or right before the next MY comes out and the dealerships need to move their "older" cars off the lots.

[Ruebernard]

Originally Posted by ImmDanny

Just that they do their "172 point inspection" and you get 72mo/100,000 mile powertrain warranty and maybe some other warranty extended a little.

Sort of true... I just purchased a CPO and the bumper to bumper is extended an additional 12 months. Additional power train warranty as well on top of the inspection.

[JefemanG]

Originally Posted by Ruebernard

Sort of true... I just purchased a CPO and the bumper to bumper is extended an additional 12 months. Additional power train warranty as well on top of the inspection.

How much did you end up getting yours for?

[MrRuss]

Originally Posted by ImmDanny

Ah yeah the extended plan does sound a bit better then. I just figured the CPO gives me some extra reassurance. Also trust me I’ve expanded my search to the entire country. Right now I have one in Wisconsin and one in Ohio that are the most promising (mentioned earlier). I’m in Arizona so I’m searching far and wide.

Also regarding your price, either the markets changed and demand has gone up raising the prices or you just found the best deal on earth as I’ve looked at probably 30+ cars that fit my wants/colors etc and only ones I’ve found even close to that (still $32k BEFORE taxes and fees) had damage reported on carfax.

Well, he did buy in November in the mid-west. Less so for us here as Winter is top-down weather LOL.