[Loggityloglog]

Hey everybody! This is my first post, and I wanted to create something that had every single part that I used on my install of the Lt2 intake manifold, because I ended up having to research a bunch on my own and make sure I had everything, and since it wasn't all in one place, I was not 100% sure I had everything when I did the install. The install is pretty easy, but obviously since the manifold was not originally created for this car, it wasn't super easy to find install instructions/parts needed, so I hope this helps some people who are on the fence, but are scared to pull the trigger.

I have a 2016 Camaro ss A8, and I did already have a catch can installed on my car which made the pcv valve really easy to account for.

I also installed the LT5 throttle body, so my part list will include the install of that.

I'm going to put here every single part that I needed for this install, and where I bought each of them, and the price they are at the writing of this.

For the Intake Manifold:
Intake Manifold on RockAuto ($180):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ac...+manifold,5536

1. gaskets for each of the runners($3.53 x 8): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010GJ7TDA...roduct_details

2. MAP extension cord($34.64):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MG5KHJ9...roduct_details

3. Some tubing for brake booster($10.99):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089YGDB55...roduct_details

4. Silicone Sealant for brake booster($8.71):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5Y6CQ...roduct_details

5. Threadlocker for brake booster($6.23):
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy...-1-spons&psc=1

6. Angle hose adapter for brake booster($11.99):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B942MLV...roduct_details

7. Drill and tap set for brake booster($4.69):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDV3A30...t_details&th=1

8. Throttle body gasket($8.99):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...BoCTgQQAvD_BwE

9. hose clamps for brake booster. I have this kit, and I don't know exactly which size it was, but whatever size hose clamp you need in order to correctly clamp on your catch can:
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Adjust...%2C210&sr=1-25

10. 90 degree pcv hose adapter($15.48):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CI6FBYE...roduct_details
^^^ This is something that I highly recommend since, at least with my catch can, the hose would hit the ceiling of the hood, and started to kink a little bit. This avoids that problem and puts less stress on the hose.

For the Throttle Body
LT5 Throttle Body on RockAuto($180):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gm...ttle+body,6472

1. LT1 to LT5 throttle body adapter($54.99)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ICB-551793

So in total, it was about $550 for a new throttle body and intake manifold. I think that's pretty worth it for the performance gain!

So when I installed the LT2 intake manifold, I ended up following the tutorial/ walkthrough from here:


After the install and dyno-tune, I ended up only gaining about 1rwhp at peak, which is quite a bit less than what most other people have been seeing, but I gained a whopping 35 lb-ft of torque. The horsepower peak ended up moving to later in the power band, and I gained a ton of top-end, however. If anyone has any ideas of why my fbo setup only made this amount, then I'd love to know haha. I'm still happy with it either way.

before: 411, 420 lb-ft
after: 412, 455 lb-ft

Mod list for reference:
before:
- BBK 1 7/8 inch long tube headers
- Lethal Garage E85 flex fuel kit
- Flowmaster Cold air intake

After(Only what was changed):
- NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
- Lt2 Intake Manifold
- Lt5 Throttle Body
- Roto-fab cold air intake

[Wintermute]

I'm close to the same mod list except I don't have e85. I have a stock throttle body ported to 91 and a ported LT2 manifold. No cats. I had my dyno'd this week and made 425hp and 432 torque. I assume the difference is that you're running cats? Still seems like you should have gained more with the e85 though. Was it mustang Dyno?

I don't know much about tuning, but I wonder if the drastic jump in torque you saw was from the torque limiter being changed by the tune and not actually from the manifold.

[Loggityloglog]

No, I am not running cats either... Its nearly straight-piped, since all I have is a bola attak muffler on the end of each pipe. I am unsure what type of dyno it was on. It was tuned by James Karger at hppracing. He's super knowledgable with these engines, and he was super confused as to why I wasn't making more power with these mods. I have suspicion that it might have something to do with my torque converter, since I had a little bit of shudder before I got it tuned, so maybe there's a problem there, but I'm not knowledgable on that so I don't know.

As for the torque jump, I think it has to be the intake manifold, since those first numbers are from the same dyno, same tuner, just a different day. And in fact, that first day was nearly 100 degrees outside, and the more recent one it was like 75.

[eimarshall]

How do you like the BBK headers? I'm starting to shop for headers and those look like a budget ceramic coated option.

No idea on the peak power though.

[s346k]

what gear did you dyno in? baseline numbers?

[Loggityloglog]

Originally Posted by eimarshall

How do you like the BBK headers? I'm starting to shop for headers and those look like a budget ceramic coated option.

No idea on the peak power though.

They are great, I'm not racing my car, just having some fun on the road so they fit my purposes great. I'd assume more expensive headers are going to give a little better flow, but probably not anything insane unless you are going to go farther than FBO. Then you should probably go with something a little higher quality. The sound is there for sure, and it was pretty easy to get them in from the top after a few things were removed, since they are 1 7/8 and not 2".

[Loggityloglog]

Originally Posted by s346k

what gear did you dyno in? baseline numbers?

I'm not going to lie, I have no clue. I didn't want to pay the $180 dyno time charge for running the dyno before putting the headers on, since I'm not super into making numbers, I just want to feel it. So I put the headers in, and with the headers in, I drove it to the performance shop and it made something like 390 without tuning, but that's going to be inflated since the headers are already flowing better. I would assume it was probably around 375-380 ish hp.

[s346k]

Originally Posted by Loggityloglog

I'm not going to lie, I have no clue. I didn't want to pay the $180 dyno time charge for running the dyno before putting the headers on, since I'm not super into making numbers, I just want to feel it. So I put the headers in, and with the headers in, I drove it to the performance shop and it made something like 390 without tuning, but that's going to be inflated since the headers are already flowing better. I would assume it was probably around 375-380 ish hp.

i doubt the car made any more power than stock with those mods if still on the stock tune. the engines are tq based and uses tq sensors to control itself. once outside the stock parameters it will literally close the tb for you to keep it at a stock power level. id say 390 +/- 5 is what it would have done bone stock, as well.

id have someone revisit that tune. the difference in hp/tq shouldn't be so much with an LT2 manifold. 20 whp from those mods isn't right.

[Danew_377]

Quick question for you. Have you modified the shield that was under the original manifold? I'm wondering if it helps quiet some of the noise from the engine bay or if it's meant to satisfy some other need.

[Loggityloglog]

Originally Posted by Danew_377

Quick question for you. Have you modified the shield that was under the original manifold? I'm wondering if it helps quiet some of the noise from the engine bay or if it's meant to satisfy some other need.

Yes, I modified the shield. I cut a bit of the "teeth" that are on the longer sides, in order to fit it inside the LT2, and then I also basically cut off the whole back portion where the fuel pump is. Its supposed to help with reducing noise from the injectors. I honestly don't mind the sound of the injectors too much, especially since I didn't run an engine cover or the plastic valve covers for a while. When I took those off, it got a little bit of noise from that, and I kinda like it tbh. Makes it sound more like a racecar to me haha. But once I put the LT2, even though I kept the padding, it got to be a little louder. Its certainly there, but imo its not bad

[Danew_377]

Ok then. I'm going to long tube headers and I have a full aftermarket exhaust anyways so I probably won't even notice it unless I'm in a high gear on the highway cruising. I can manage that

Now it is just finding out if the engine brace I have now will cause me to have to shave some of the ribs down on the top side of the manifold to get it to fit.

I apprciate that.

[lt4camaro]

My set up LT2 intake, solar ported 87 mm TB to a effective 91 MM, stock air box just opened on the bottom, axle back borla s mufflers and mid x pipe without secondary cats, 180 stat. Conservative Jannetty dyno tune 421.2 Hp 431.3 torgue on 93 octane, 440.6Hp 445.6 torque onE70. No headers, 10 speed auto.

[Bud357]

Has anyone tried installing the LT2 while retaining the GM strut tower bar? Was wondering if it fits.

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by Bud357

Has anyone tried installing the LT2 while retaining the GM strut tower bar? Was wondering if it fits.

Some guys have put the LT2 intake on and loosely laid down the strut tower brace to see where the top of intake needs minor trimming or just shim the strut tower brace where it bolts on. I have also seen some guys trim the actual strut tower brace to so it does not touch the top of the intake.