[Badmojo]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

I have the bk062 kit installed, and I can say I saw absolutely zero increase in NVH. Absolutely zero regrets installing it. Just my two cents ...

Did you have to fully remove the cradle?

[Baddawg53]

Originally Posted by Badmojo

Did you have to fully remove the cradle?

I did not remove it, just did one side at a time, loosened both sides up first. It was not easy, but once you get one side figured out the other goes a lot faster. Did it in my garage on jack stands.

[ICTsccaCamaro]

I hate to be "that guy" but it seems like a ton of money spent just getting a SS hopefully up to where a stock ZL1 1LE might handle on track with zero warranty. (I see you used to have a ZL1). Maybe money is a non issue but even the warranty side of things. I love the fact that I can typically be one of the fastest guys in a advanced trackday session with a 100% stock car with a full factory warranty with 650hp.
It is a cool build and car but darn that's a lot of work to get back to what you had stock with your ZL1

[Baddawg53]

For some people, and I can only speak for myself obviously, it's a hobby. I enjoy working on the car, there isn't much I haven't touched on my SS. Sure, you can buy an $80k track car and go seriously quick right out of the gate. I have probably invested near that amount total into my SS, but I love how my car has changed, how it's all come together. For some people there's more to it than just turning great lap times.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by ICTsccaCamaro

I hate to be "that guy" but it seems like a ton of money spent just getting a SS hopefully up to where a stock ZL1 1LE might handle on track with zero warranty. (I see you used to have a ZL1). Maybe money is a non issue but even the warranty side of things. I love the fact that I can typically be one of the fastest guys in a advanced trackday session with a 100% stock car with a full factory warranty with 650hp.
It is a cool build and car but darn that's a lot of work to get back to what you had stock with your ZL1

\
Well first off this car is not EQUAL to my ZL1 1LE; it is SUPERIOR. This car is faster around a road course than my ZL1 1LE was. Its handling is basically NEUTRAL which my ZL1 1LE NEVER was. It is lighter especially over the nose than my ZL1 1LE was. It has FAR BETTER street manners than my ZL1 1LE was specifically in ride quality. It is naturally aspirated so there NEVER is an issue with heat soak of ANY kind. It has BETTER brake and rotor wear than my ZL1 1LE had probably due to less nose weight. Finally I could care less about having a warranty.

Dont get me wrong, the ZL1 1LE is a GREAT factory road racer but as a daily driver, it is completely unforgiving. That's EXACTLY why I built up this SS was so that I could equally enjoy the car on the track or the street. NO DOUBT the ZL1 1LE looks more badass though!!!

[FNxR3DNECK]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

\
Well first off this car is not EQUAL to my ZL1 1LE; it is SUPERIOR. This car is faster around a road course than my ZL1 1LE was. Its handling is basically NEUTRAL which my ZL1 1LE NEVER was. It is lighter especially over the nose than my ZL1 1LE was. It has FAR BETTER street manners than my ZL1 1LE was specifically in ride quality. It is naturally aspirated so there NEVER is an issue with heat soak of ANY kind. It has BETTER brake and rotor wear than my ZL1 1LE had probably due to less nose weight. Finally I could care less about having a warranty.

Dont get me wrong, the ZL1 1LE is a GREAT factory road racer but as a daily driver, it is completely unforgiving. That's EXACTLY why I built up this SS was so that I could equally enjoy the car on the track or the street. NO DOUBT the ZL1 1LE looks more badass though!!!

You say this is quicker than your old ZL1 1LE.... so I have 2 questions to that end: 1. how much power is it making compared to the Z? 2.What tire were you running on the Z?

It's obviously an impressive build and not far off what I ultimately have planned for my car, but with what you have listed I still kinda have a hard time believing it's quicker than a stock ZL1 1LE (especially if you were also running the Slicks on the Z).

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by FNxR3DNECK

You say this is quicker than your old ZL1 1LE.... so I have 2 questions to that end: 1. how much power is it making compared to the Z? 2.What tire were you running on the Z?

It's obviously an impressive build and not far off what I ultimately have planned for my car, but with what you have listed I still kinda have a hard time believing it's quicker than a stock ZL1 1LE (especially if you were also running the Slicks on the Z).

You make great points and I think it brings into focus the tremendous amount of variables in road racing.

I was running GY3R on the ZL1 1LE and never ran slicks on it. I also was a NEWBIE to road racing at that time so my driving skills were SUSPECT at best. My current car has been professionally prepared by DOGHOUSE Performance that has their shop located in Motorsports Ranch. In its CURRENT configuration it makes about 60HP less than my ZL1 1LE did. In a PURE drag race , my ZL1 1LE was faster but if you look at straightaway speeds the two cars on a racetrack are very close. My SS is ROUGHLY 200 pounds lighter than my ZL1 1LE was.

The only thing currently keeping the car from being faster is ME and some power upgrades that will push the power up to the 580-600 RWHP. There is always somebody faster than you are but the BIGGEST variable is the DRIVER. The car in my opinion is ALMOST there, the driver could use a little work but I am getting there (lol).

[Katech_Zach]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

OK Just had a nice talk with the BMR techie guys and they have a kit that they recommend for a dual purpose car in regards to the rear cradle bushing kit. The stock number is BK063 and it is not entirely solid mounts in that it DOES have some DELRIN bushings along with some aluminum bushings.
This KIT is called a REAR CRADLE LOCKOUT KIT. I think I am going to try this kit. NO INCREASE in NVM (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) is what they are claiming.

UPDATE: I went ahead and ordered BK063 today. I should have it installed prior to my next track date which is Feb 19th. I will feed back HERE my impressions.

The other choice for more of a track oriented ONLY car would be their part number BK062 which is basically identical to the ZL1 1LE set up. That set up has ALL SOLID bushings and has a very noticeable increase in NVM like what you have in the ZL1 1LE. So thats a NO GO for me.

BMR link is HERE:
https://bmrsuspension.com/?page=prod...=121&catid=472

I had solid aluminum cradle bushings on my 5th gen dual purpose car, it didn't increase NVH. The ZL1 1LE road harsh because of the DSSV's and stiff sidewall tires. You'd be fine with whatever cradle mod you choose to do. The BMR inserts are definitely better than nothing and still a good improvement over stock without any sacrifices

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

I had solid aluminum cradle bushings on my 5th gen dual purpose car, it didn't increase NVH. The ZL1 1LE road harsh because of the DSSV's and stiff sidewall tires. You'd be fine with whatever cradle mod you choose to do. The BMR inserts are definitely better than nothing and still a good improvement over stock without any sacrifices

Well the cradle bushings are going in tomorrow. The original plan was to also install heads and cam but unfortunately the CAM I want is 4 weeks out and not in stock. The cam below is what I have selected after talking with tuner because NORMALLY this CAM would require a higher than stock stall speed. Apparently he says he can tune around it.

[Blueclyde]

I recently changed from a 1SS/1LE with M6 to a ZL1 with A10. I did a ton of track days with the 1LE M6. I’ve done one track day with the ZL1 and it was my first time at that track (Mid Ohio). Do you use the paddles at all or do you let the car handle upshifts and downshifts? I have to get used to the A10 after so many track days with the manual. I could also count on that downshift when I wanted it and the A10 seemed inconsistent at the one track day.

Thanks for the write up, by the way. Very impressive set up!

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Blueclyde

I recently changed from a 1SS/1LE with M6 to a ZL1 with A10. I did a ton of track days with the 1LE M6. I’ve done one track day with the ZL1 and it was my first time at that track (Mid Ohio). Do you use the paddles at all or do you let the car handle upshifts and downshifts? I have to get used to the A10 after so many track days with the manual. I could also count on that downshift when I wanted it and the A10 seemed inconsistent at the one track day.

Thanks for the write up, by the way. Very impressive set up!

THANKS!!!
Ok well the A10 works great if you let it shift itself. I put it in TRACK mode and the car rarely sees below 3500-4000RPM even in the slowest of the corners. SPORT mode also will work but the downshifts wont be as aggressive. The FASTER you de-accelerate the QUICKER it will downshift.
Also the tranny has a built in learn mode so drive the shit out of it. I usually go into COMPETITVE traction control mode or all NANNIES off. If you are still an beginner or intermediate driver then leave the nannies on. If you tires are marginal leave the nannies on.

[Blueclyde]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

THANKS!!!
Ok well the A10 works great if you let it shift itself. I put it in TRACK mode and the car rarely sees below 3500-4000RPM even in the slowest of the corners. SPORT mode also will work but the downshifts wont be as aggressive. The FASTER you de-accelerate the QUICKER it will downshift.
Also the tranny has a built in learn mode so drive the shit out of it. I usually go into COMPETITVE traction control mode or all NANNIES off. If you are still an beginner or intermediate driver then leave the nannies on. If you tires are marginal leave the nannies on.

Thanks. I’m not a beginner, just new to an A10. I just need a few more sessions with this car. I put ZLE wheels and tires on it this off season and can’t wait to get it back on a familiar track, Grattan or Gingerman for me here in Michigan.

[sr71bb]

UPDATE

Well I bring this back up because NEXT WEEK is the week I have scheduled to get my heads and cam installed. When done the car will have 13:1 compression and should dyno anywhere from 570-600 RWHP.

Also scheduled is the installation of BOTH race seats in the front and using for the time being the factory belts.

A 5 belt harness will be used later in combination with a custom built chrome -moly roll bar with harness bar. It will be certified to 8.50 but as you know my plans are primarily for road racing it. I think the plan is to use my car as a prototype so that they can offer the same bar setup to others. The guy doing the roll bar spent some time at BRINKS RACECRAFT which is considered one of the finest fabricators in the country.

To the extent it can be, the roll bar will be stealth looking in from the outside and powdercoated a textured black (thats the plan anyway). Powdercoating MIGHT not be possible if the bar is going to be built from INSIDE the car but will see.

[Eric10905]

It’s going to be a beast. Hope I bump into you at a track day so I can see this build in person. Congrats!