HELP !!! MULTIPLE MISFIRING AND CLUTCH SENSOR, LOUSY COMPRESSION 62K

[carjockey71@gmail.com]

Hi Everyone - I would really appreciate some help !!

Hopefully I have posted my thread correctly, and if I havent I apologize in advance

Normally I would just pull it apart myself and be into the ‘project’ already but I’m a little lost for words with this a 62K engine shouldn’t need to be pulled apart yet, I ran my 6.0 Yukon XL to 200k with no issues

I’m have some serious problems with my Camaro and I need a lot of input, I did a compression test but from what I’m have been reading I might not have done it correctly-

I havent pulled a block apart in years, so let me give you the scoop -

my Camaro SS LS3 started pulling codes, 1st a p0306 (6th cyclinder misfire) and next day p0806 (clutch position sensor -it went away and come back) and now on top of those others codes, I get intermittent p0300 (random misfiring all cyclinders) & ( I forgot the code) for ‘crank position sensor’ came out today, which also came with ‘hard starting’ today - that code for crank position sensor shouldnup last year and left it own

One thought that I had is it possible for a failing /worn clutch to cause or create a misfiring condition ?

I changed plugs, wires and swapped coil packs from the 6th & 8th cyclinder from healthier cyclinder when right back I generating codes right away, the misfire(s) have the car thumping at about 500-800 RPM and so far the misfiring only at idle the SES LIGHTS LIT UP the right side of my dash - traction control & stabilitrac and will stay that way until I hit about 1200 RPM and continue moving, I guess this is a common issue for misfiring is the SES lights to light up and then pass when the misfire is gone.

So I compression tested the engine - I’m probably did it wrong

I disconnected the coil packs individually but I did not leave the throttle body open or hold the gas pedal down while getting my 5-7 compression strokes, its definitely dumping fuel, even when the misfired starts you smell the gas the same time the SES LIGHTS COME ON. I didn’t do a ‘WET’ test, but I did run it without the serpentine belt connected so the cam wasn’t ‘involved’ and I got ‘fair’ compression around 150 psi per cyclinder on the left side (left looking at the car) at cyclinders 2,4,6,8, the compression was 120 psi at 6. 90 psi at 8, 155 psi at 4, 165 psi at 2 - taking the ‘rule of thumb’ .25 the 120 would be ‘acceptable’ however the 90 psi on cyclinder 8th why am I not getting a p0308 - maybe the cyclinders 6 & 8 are sharing compression????

Right side was cyclinder 1 - 190 psi, 3 - 135 psi, 5 170 psi, 7 135 psi not great number for such a high compression engine, can’t buy a replace on front the junkyard can’t touch one for under 5k, I cant afford to bring it to the dealer at $100 per hour so I have a good local garage that everyone swears by, it has t. Even to the shop yet, but driving it around isn’t working for me because I do t want to make it worse the it is, and occasionally the check engine light will flash, which I do understand the seriousness of that

It sound like a lifter, the car has 62,778 and I have owned it since 8/2015 with 31k there a NO MODIFICATIONS, it completely out of warranty and I was hoping that it was something reasonably simple- like the ‘afm’ (active fuel management) because those lifters are know to break- but I there not AFM in a standard shift - so here is my thoughts:

Obviously with a noticeable lifter tick I know the problem, now whether it’s the lifter and it and easy fix - do t know till I pull the covers and chances are, which the right side compression being low, I have 1 cyclinder running at optimum, umber 1 at 190 psi, I should pull both sides (and hope after a wet test that I don’t need to pull the engine and rebuild it) and get away with a worn cam lobe or something relatively simple

He’s where my problems come in, I don’t have the funds for this and was planning on keeping the car for awhile and eventually leaving it for my kids, so top end rebuilding doesn’t seem like a bad thing, just long and tendous, I can tweak it cam it Port the heads and according to GM performance the parts around $2000 (but all the parts I look at say it requires ‘tuning’ and I have no idea what that is and how that works)that $2000+ can make a nice rebuild instead of paying 30 plus hours in labor for a tech to do it and using my rebuilding budget in labor and we know there only going to fix the basic problem, there not going to pull the other head- I mean I am sure that they will if I have the piggy bank for it but I don’t.

I’m too old to have a ego so driving a ‘junkbox’ while I pull apart my camaro and try to remind how everything goes or I dig out my out my Chevrolet Performance Guide and rebuilding book that probably still has cam grease on it from 25 years ago or instead of tying it up for a month just have the shop do the basics and put it the rebuild till much much later

(Unfortunately I still have to put the car back together every night drive it work, kids to school, etc all day - I’ll have to figure it out to tear it down)

On of my thoughts was MAYBE the standard shift needs to be replaced and the something like the clutch is pulling too far out (or in) and it’s try to engage the engine even with the clutch out - but with the compression 8 -90, 6 - 120 psi, 7 - 90 psi, make me think I have a worn cam that broke a lifter or lift with a bent rod, praying the pistons and rings will are fine

Sorry for the super long text, appreciate the feedback - if anyone has been down the road and pull it apart themselves I like to hear from you, learn how it went etc, thanks everyone!

[Reaper85]

First question is how old is the battery? Lots of people throw crazy codes because of an old battery. That would be my first stop. Then check the grounds.

[carjockey71@gmail.com]

Believe it out not my battery does t have the standard AC DELCO numbers across the top for me to figure out the product date, it it’s probably due and I will replace ASAP, but even a lousy battery would not wreck a compression test, so long as I get a solid 5-10 solid compression strokes. I have heard it will set off the ‘crankcase sensor code’ -

Thanks

[CamaroFred]

Originally Posted by carjockey71@gmail.com

Believe it out not my battery does t have the standard AC DELCO numbers across the top for me to figure out the product date, it it’s probably due and I will replace ASAP, but even a lousy battery would not wreck a compression test, so long as I get a solid 5-10 solid compression strokes. I have heard it will set off the ‘crankcase sensor code’ -

Thanks

If it is cranking slow the more off the tests will be. And so more inconsistent results the longer you test.


Battery is a big factor in these electronic Camaros.

[carjockey71@gmail.com]

CamaroFred -

The hardstarting issue just came about yesterday, these other issues started right before Thanksgivin.

While doing the compression test I had it hooked up to a battery conditioner - I had NO problems producing enough power to start the car for 5-7 compression strokes for all 8 cyclinders.

So I believe that the compression test is sound as far as cranking amps - but I might goofed it other areas (see post) even still with the ‘HARD STARTING’ that just started yesterday I am replacing the battery today

Appreciate the input

[carjockey71@gmail.com]

UPDATE - NEW BATTERY INSTALLED

Misfire condition continues & check clutch sensor, crank.

Any thoughts thoughts on the lousy compression test and did I preform it correctly ??

[carjockey71@gmail.com]

Looks like I am doing a top end rebuild, would appreciate some help from you guys who have down this - recommendations, thoughts, afterthoughts, etc

I would like to put in a heavier cam with a higher lift, I’m sure if I strip down and have the heads checked and mangafluxed (?) I can rebuild those, definitely headers on and delete the mufflers or put in a ‘mile to wild’ switch system’ like to try to get a nice rebuild I only doing this because it needs to be done so I might as well beef it up, does anyone think it worth tearing the bottom up as well ??

I live in Florida so weather really isn’t a issue, I would have to rent storage to clean out my garage and I also lived in a ‘deed restricted’ neighborhood, so I can’t leave the engine half of for. A couple weeks, and I don’t have a lift - just me and my jack and jack stands

Would love some ideas on a good performance cam, lifters springs,rockers without breaking the bank - how do I bump up this stuff up? I see nice performance packages from GM but everything states must be tuned afterwards and I really don’t what that means ?

I was also thinking about redoing the clutch, any ideas what would give good performance without breaking my bank, I’m not trying get 800 HP out of it, a good bump would be nice, perhaps a new scan tool that will allow me to do pedal adjustments for the clutch and if possible the tuning I need for the rebuild the top ?

Like I have mentioned I have NOT done this stuff in 20 + years so I am a little of of date with fuel management, etc feel free

Appreciate the help

[L99CAMA2011]

Originally Posted by carjockey71@gmail.com

Looks like I am doing a top end rebuild, would appreciate some help from you guys who have down this - recommendations, thoughts, afterthoughts, etc

I would like to put in a heavier cam with a higher lift, I’m sure if I strip down and have the heads checked and mangafluxed (?) I can rebuild those, definitely headers on and delete the mufflers or put in a ‘mile to wild’ switch system’ like to try to get a nice rebuild I only doing this because it needs to be done so I might as well beef it up, does anyone think it worth tearing the bottom up as well ??

I live in Florida so weather really isn’t a issue, I would have to rent storage to clean out my garage and I also lived in a ‘deed restricted’ neighborhood, so I can’t leave the engine half of for. A couple weeks, and I don’t have a lift - just me and my jack and jack stands

Would love some ideas on a good performance cam, lifters springs,rockers without breaking the bank - how do I bump up this stuff up? I see nice performance packages from GM but everything states must be tuned afterwards and I really don’t what that means ?

I was also thinking about redoing the clutch, any ideas what would give good performance without breaking my bank, I’m not trying get 800 HP out of it, a good bump would be nice, perhaps a new scan tool that will allow me to do pedal adjustments for the clutch and if possible the tuning I need for the rebuild the top ?

Like I have mentioned I have NOT done this stuff in 20 + years so I am a little of of date with fuel management, etc feel free

Appreciate the help

some recommended me to just get some GM performance heads and clean out the lifter fragments when it happened to me. Drove and tracked the car after the fix.

[christianchevell]

You should have checked the crank position sensor which can come loose, if your loosing compression check the top ends with valve covers off to check for it being OK, and there are plenty of good speed shops in Florida so look them up, and some run specials for install and such so your close to Help.... your symptoms could be from this most important of sensors coming loose...let alone not knowing conditions things were done and that of the engine....Many codes can be read about on the internet and interconnect with lots of symptoms and systems on a car...…….

[ColdfuzionTN]

http://www.fasterproms.net/ is in the area I'd also consider them looking at it tell'em Dale sent ya. and don't let cleetus touch it lol.

[L99CAMA2011]

Originally Posted by ColdfuzionTN

http://www.fasterproms.net/ is in the area I'd also consider them looking at it tell'em Dale sent ya. and don't let cleetus touch it lol.

Very good recommendation.

[carjockey71@gmail.com]

Thanks everyone for chiming in, I probably should have just updated this post but I started another one as the car was towed up to a non GM shop the other day, after I was getting this aweful creaking at idle, along with misfire.

The shop believes is related to TSB PIP 4138P, which I found on Mitchell1 and it seems right, I haven’t authorized further diagnostic as the warranty company has been trying to deny the claim from the start, but all of the updated information is in the new post, but I am still really concerned at it pointing out to cylinder 6, which had 125 psi of compression and NOT cylinder 8, which only had 90 psi of compression and was failing- it’s been 20+ years so I have done any work like this, so I am a little torn and the price tag front he shop is currently at $4400 without all the money I spent in chasing the issue, regardless it listed under a new post and if I did something wrong admins I apologize.

Not quite sure what I am going to go and looking for feedback - but there is lots more in the update post.

I did reach out to GM and they wouldn’t tell me if they would honor the TSB if I brought it a dealer, might be worth a shot but I just want to get it fixed, it to still my daily Florida driver and I don’t want to waste more the. I already have- please read the new posts d thank you for you input

Happy New Year

[carjockey71@gmail.com]

FYI - they haven’t done a ‘wet test’ yet, which I will definitely have them do, but so far I have avoided serious issues as nothing has ‘broken’ off yet (still fingers crossed on the bottom end beging OK) but I have no ‘grit’ or metal in my oil, the litter is either stuck or not rolling around the cam grooving the cam - they recommend a top end cam, lifter rebuild, clean up the heads and do both sides - I might add a timing chain to that if I do it but once again that a issue for me being in a deed restricted neighborhood.

Best & Thanks

Paul

[camguynj]

Had a similar problem with my ‘13 SS cammed 50k LS3 a week ago. After a few days of what seemed the car running rough got cel, service Stabilitrac msg and associated trac control lights with codes p0202 …and p0806! Replaced the injector in cyc2, cleared codes and car has been running fine since

Only reason I think of for the P0806 (clutch position sensor) is that over a year ago I removed the clutch return spring. Maybe with Service Stabilitrac the PCM starts checking various sensors and maybe because the clutch return spring was removed the pedal position was a mm off the sensor position variance limit