Suggestion on oil pump, transmission cooler and pulley. - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Ace0751 · 07-18-2021, 12:42 AM

Looking for some help on some parts. Got the gpi ss2 vvt cam and still waiting on the lifters and trunnion set but wanted to get some input on some decent oil pumps, transmission coolers and under drive pulley. All of this is gonna be installed next year because I plan on getting suspension done as well and want it all done in one go. Was looking at the zl1 oil pump but curious on where to get it and it see quite a few underdrive pulleys but not sure which one would be suitable for some extra power. Already have a circle d torque converter waiting to be installed as well, just mainly focused on these 3 parts or if they even are needed.

morepowerjoe · 07-18-2021, 03:19 AM

I changed my oil pump 3 times because of low idle pressure. First with the M365 then with the M10295. And both did nothing for idle pressure. Even the 10295 didn't increase the pressure all that much. So then I got the M10355HV and wow what a great pump. I went from 15 psi at idle when hot in gear to 30 psi. I also installed the high pressure spring in it also and now anything over like 1200 rpm I have over 50 psi. I also plugged the oil bypass relief valve in the pan. So I would strongly recommend the Melling 10355HV.

LCPLPunk · 07-18-2021, 07:50 AM

Powerbond for the pulley - on a 2010/2011 it's a guaranteed 8 RWHP gain.

redrum_maro · 07-19-2021, 06:57 PM

As for the transmission cooler TruCool and B&M are good options, I have also been exploring Flex A Lite as well as I have been really interested in their radiators. TruCool has a neat technology that allows for your trans fluid to warm up properly without using any thermostat housings. It just uses the properties of the fluid to bypass the cooling in a sense while it gets up to temp. A trans cooler is really important for auto trans, heat is the main reason they slowly begin to die. If you tend to engine brake a lot, know that when done in an auto trans it creates more heat. I had read from a forum member here to to add the trans cooler in series rather than by pass the "trans cooler" that is built into the oem radiator. If you do choose to upgrade your radiator know that a series cannot be done as some radiators do not have the same feature as the oem radiator.

You should also consider looking into oil coolers, the mix of a trans and oil cooler will be substantially enough to see under hood temps decrease.

morepowerjoe · 07-19-2021, 08:12 PM

Yes^^^^. I totally agree. I have a SS1 cam and stock stall and my tranny didn't like it at all. I'm guessing that since I have the SS1 cam fighting the converter all the time and increased line pressure that's why my temperature would go up to 210*-220*. I installed the tru cool 40k and now even in the 90's I only get up to 160*-170*. And I did run mine through the radiator before the cooler also. It is really a great cooler. It even warms up really quick too.

07-18-2021, 12:42 AM	#1
Ace0751 GEN5 Detail Drives: 2011 Synergy Series 2SS Convertible Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Northeast, OH Posts: 1,986	Suggestion on oil pump, transmission cooler and pulley. Looking for some help on some parts. Got the gpi ss2 vvt cam and still waiting on the lifters and trunnion set but wanted to get some input on some decent oil pumps, transmission coolers and under drive pulley. All of this is gonna be installed next year because I plan on getting suspension done as well and want it all done in one go. Was looking at the zl1 oil pump but curious on where to get it and it see quite a few underdrive pulleys but not sure which one would be suitable for some extra power. Already have a circle d torque converter waiting to be installed as well, just mainly focused on these 3 parts or if they even are needed. __________________ Roto-Fab CAI, Borla ATAK Exhaust System, Stainless Power Headers, RX Performance Catch Can, ACS T4 Splitter, Oracle side markers, Dyno Tuned by RDP Motorsports

07-18-2021, 03:19 AM	#2
morepowerjoe Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 2,093	I changed my oil pump 3 times because of low idle pressure. First with the M365 then with the M10295. And both did nothing for idle pressure. Even the 10295 didn't increase the pressure all that much. So then I got the M10355HV and wow what a great pump. I went from 15 psi at idle when hot in gear to 30 psi. I also installed the high pressure spring in it also and now anything over like 1200 rpm I have over 50 psi. I also plugged the oil bypass relief valve in the pan. So I would strongly recommend the Melling 10355HV. __________________ DSS FX Forged Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Forged Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC 260 CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Performance Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions , Molly Pushrods, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP 1 7/8" Longtubes with 3" TSP Exhaust, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Fluid Dynamics Balancer Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817

07-18-2021, 07:50 AM	#3
LCPLPunk USA-1 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS L99 Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Near DC Posts: 1,893 View My Garage	Powerbond for the pulley - on a 2010/2011 it's a guaranteed 8 RWHP gain. __________________ "A Camaro in the garage is safe, but that's not what Camaros are built for..." R2C CAI / Apex Scoop / VMAX Ported TB / Speed Engineering LTHs / X-pipe / GPI port/rod-mod intake manifold / Circle D 3200 278mm Converter / 3.91 gears / DynoSteve tuned / 1LE Shocks/Struts/Toe Links / ZL1 Rear Sway Bar / Z/28 Trailing arms / Prothane Radius Arm & Subframe Bushings / BMR UCA Bracket, Steering rack bushing / B&M Tranny Cooler / RX Catch Can / Jannetty Tranny Dipstick / 2012+ Heater Hose / 2013+ Rearview Mirror / Fuel rail flip / Drake shifter / Oil Cooler Delete

07-19-2021, 08:12 PM	#5
morepowerjoe Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 2,093	Yes^^^^. I totally agree. I have a SS1 cam and stock stall and my tranny didn't like it at all. I'm guessing that since I have the SS1 cam fighting the converter all the time and increased line pressure that's why my temperature would go up to 210-220. I installed the tru cool 40k and now even in the 90's I only get up to 160-170. And I did run mine through the radiator before the cooler also. It is really a great cooler. It even warms up really quick too. __________________ DSS FX Forged Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Forged Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC 260 CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Performance Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions , Molly Pushrods, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP 1 7/8" Longtubes with 3" TSP Exhaust, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Fluid Dynamics Balancer Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817

07-19-2021, 06:57 PM	#4
redrum_maro Runs on caffeine Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Somewhere driving fast Posts: 120	As for the transmission cooler TruCool and B&M are good options, I have also been exploring Flex A Lite as well as I have been really interested in their radiators. TruCool has a neat technology that allows for your trans fluid to warm up properly without using any thermostat housings. It just uses the properties of the fluid to bypass the cooling in a sense while it gets up to temp. A trans cooler is really important for auto trans, heat is the main reason they slowly begin to die. If you tend to engine brake a lot, know that when done in an auto trans it creates more heat. I had read from a forum member here to to add the trans cooler in series rather than by pass the "trans cooler" that is built into the oem radiator. If you do choose to upgrade your radiator know that a series cannot be done as some radiators do not have the same feature as the oem radiator. You should also consider looking into oil coolers, the mix of a trans and oil cooler will be substantially enough to see under hood temps decrease.