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Old 09-17-2020, 01:01 PM   #57
WhiteMale

 
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So you're not seeing any smoke at the tailpipe? My LT1 will belch a little bit on startup on occasion but I redline it through 2 or 3 gears every day and engine brake it a lot. I can get about with my mileage about 6K miles between changes and I'd swear that I have to top it off with what totals out to at least a quart. In fact I buy 12qt's because I'll need those two to adjust the fill over time.
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Old 09-17-2020, 01:39 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by minn19 View Post
I don't disagree that could happen, but I'm unsure what it has to do with my post.
2-fold relevance: one being it shouldn’t be reliant on a dealer doing the changes as the plugs should really show that kind of oil consumption, & secondly I’d be pushing for Cats & O2’s to be changed as well.
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Old 09-17-2020, 01:45 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by gtfoxy View Post
2-fold relevance: one being it shouldn’t be reliant on a dealer doing the changes as the plugs should really show that kind of oil consumption, & secondly I’d be pushing for Cats & O2’s to be changed as well.
It shouldn't, but if OP brings it in asking for and engine and then what you suggest.......most likely they are going to have an oil change done and monitor it for x amount of miles. Then go from there.

That was the point of my post. A lot of things should or shouldn't happen. But, nothing is going to happen if he doesn't bring to the dealer and I suggest opening a case directly with Chevy/GM. Arguing with a bunch of internet strangers isn't going to get anything done.

FWIW, my plugs looked fine on my GT350 even with a ton of oil consumption. As did my exhaust tips and it wasn't blowing blue smoke. It was bizarre and most likely was getting burned at the cats etc.
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Old 09-17-2020, 02:13 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by OutlawV2 View Post
The capacity is the capacity for a reason bro. Oil isn't just for the motor in this car... It lubricates multiple systems. and when you said "you can probably run" you lost me..... Of course i'm aware that 2 quarts down wont' cause me problems....

what my bigger issue is why a motor with 15-20K miles burns oil like the rings have 120k on them?????
Oil lubricates, cools, and carries away contaminants. The extra capacity is for extra cooling on these cars. No multiple systems are at play on these rigs either.
Assuming the op's car does have an issue, there are several other possible causes other than the rings. Valve seals/guides or pcv issues come to mind.
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Old 09-17-2020, 02:15 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by SFV1LE View Post
That's surprising, even our 2004 MDX with 170k miles consumed zero to less than ~1/2 qt per 5k miles.

Maybe there was a break in issue with the CRV, if someone drives a new car hard when it's cold I don't expect good results. Some people start it on a cold morning, drive 1 mile to the freeway onramp and punch it.
The history of their CRV burning oil started with the car actually *gaining* oil. The car had a problem with oil/fuel dilution. You'd check the oil and there would be too much, and it would smell like gasoline. Honda dealer would change the oil, and it would happen again, until they finally updated the software. Since then, the car no longer gets oil dilution, but now it's burning oil (my feeling is it's because the fuel mixture washed the oil off the rings and cylinder walls while the original problem was still occurring).
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Old 09-17-2020, 03:53 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Rayvan View Post
The history of their CRV burning oil started with the car actually *gaining* oil. The car had a problem with oil/fuel dilution. You'd check the oil and there would be too much, and it would smell like gasoline. Honda dealer would change the oil, and it would happen again, until they finally updated the software. Since then, the car no longer gets oil dilution, but now it's burning oil (my feeling is it's because the fuel mixture washed the oil off the rings and cylinder walls while the original problem was still occurring).
Yes, it seems certain the fuel dilution f-ed up the break-in process, rings and cylinder walls.

But I'm confused how a software issue caused this. I guess super rich A/F ratio can cause this but that's a weird fuel map bug for only one car, vs. being a model wide problem.
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Old 09-18-2020, 06:43 AM   #63
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My 2020 ZL1 has had 2 oil changes and 6k miles. Just checked the oil and it was about 2-3 qts low. Chevy dealership did it, it says in the owners manual that it burns oil during the break in period or the first 5k miles and to check it every time you fill up with gas. Car felt kind of weird yesterday so I checked the oil today, time to take a trip to the parts department ����
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Old 09-18-2020, 07:07 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by SFV1LE View Post
I dont think the engine oil lubricates anything but the motor on the ZL1. It flows between the top end for the cams/valves etc. and the bottom end crank/rod bearings and pistons skirt sprayers. Maybe it lubricates the supercharger rotating parts, or maybe there's a separate fluid for that. But those are all parts of the motor/engine, and motor oil lubrication.

I think the trans is only lubricated by trans fluid, the diff by diff fluid, etc. I think with some motorcycles, motor oil also lubricates the trans.

A couple of weird things I've noticed about this car after almost 2 years...

1) as many people have said, it can very hard to get an accurate reading on oil level. I park it and wait for an hour, and then it reads middle of the dipstick hashed marks. Check again after 3 hours total or overnight and it's at the top. But this is very inconsistent, sometimes it reads accurate after 1 hour or less, seems to do this quicker within 500 miles after an oil change, then take longer to settle.
2) If the dipstick reads middle or below middle the hashing after leaving it overnight and I add 4 OZ of oil (1/8 quart) it then reads top of the hashing or even over the top a little. BUT it won't change reading right after pouring it in, unless you add a lot. You MUST drive it and get it fully warmed up before checking the increase from the added oil.

Bottom line for me is that reading oil level is more difficult than on any car I've owned and pattern makes no sense. And when you add oil with a reading already in the hashing and you want to top it up... only add 4 OZ at a time, or you will potentially overfill and have to drain and refill

+1 this. Gotta let the car sit overnight for a good reading. No way the "oil change guy" will know this or be able to do this.

Excessive is 1qt per 1000 miles. OP's 1qt per 3000 isn't excessive by GM's standard (nor most other car companies).
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Old 10-25-2020, 08:16 PM   #65
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Mine burns a little oil as well.

It’s a 2018 and only has 4700 miles. I do remember reading in the manual that the car might consume oil in the first 1500 miles. I was not aware that GM states in the manual that the car may burn oil in the first 5K miles.
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Old 10-25-2020, 10:28 PM   #66
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I got my ZL1 with 2700 miles, it burns a quart between oil changes, I have about 13K on it, I cruz most of the time , every now and then I run it to 4K or 4500 RPM, then there's a 6200-6500 rpm run on some long stretch hwy /back road ,every now and then. I keep the rev match on, with Atak cat bat, but here's the weird part, when driving once a week or twice, I can check it each time and the oil will be fine, then one day I will check it/engine is always cold and all of a sudden its half way down on the dipstick which is about half a quart. It's like it just uses oil a certain times. Maybe after a few hard pulls or extreme hot days, but I feel the previous owner who live in Houston spent more city driving during break in. Which is not ideal, but I'm happy with the ZL1.
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:40 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by Revalot View Post
I got my ZL1 with 2700 miles, it burns a quart between oil changes, I have about 13K on it, I cruz most of the time , every now and then I run it to 4K or 4500 RPM, then there's a 6200-6500 rpm run on some long stretch hwy /back road ,every now and then. I keep the rev match on, with Atak cat bat, but here's the weird part, when driving once a week or twice, I can check it each time and the oil will be fine, then one day I will check it/engine is always cold and all of a sudden its half way down on the dipstick which is about half a quart. It's like it just uses oil a certain times. Maybe after a few hard pulls or extreme hot days, but I feel the previous owner who live in Houston spent more city driving during break in. Which is not ideal, but I'm happy with the ZL1.
I see the same thing, very unpredictable. Like no oil consumption at the track, then I see some after a few casual weekend drives.

The other strange thing is it seems to burn no oil at all for a long time after an oil change, and it also returns to full on the dipstick much faster--you don't have to wait an an hour or overnight.
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Old 10-26-2020, 05:22 AM   #68
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I have bought many new cars over the years. I have always broke the engines in the same way. First 500 easy miles and then let it rip after that, to get a good seat on the rings. Just changed oil after 5500 mi, with No oil lost. I don't track my car but, I will run it good when I take it out.
I took a 2200 mi trip during this oil cycle and go on it plenty, yet still no oil consumption. I do believe, it is all in the way you break in the engine.
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Old 10-27-2020, 01:41 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by collinms View Post
I think it's because I use the paddles every time I drive. Probably the downshifts. I'm okay with it.
Yes I concur as I drive mostly with the paddles and do a lot of down shifting. Between oil changes I am adding 1 - 1.5 Quarts.

I found that when I kept it in D and barley downshifted using the paddles my oil consumption issue stopped.
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:03 PM   #70
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i'm constantly down shifting as well on mine. I love the rev. match feature on the manual.

maybe that's why mine is also consuming a quart between oil changes.
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