[wytelightning]

i ended up going with the Stage 3 cam from Pray Performance. Just finished install last week. It sounds amazing and drives great. ill probably just plan on checking and replacing springs every year or so. i'm sure i will be in there for more upgrades soon anyways.

[Nightfall ss1le]

Originally Posted by wytelightning

i ended up going with the Stage 3 cam from Pray Performance. Just finished install last week. It sounds amazing and drives great. ill probably just plan on checking and replacing springs every year or so. i'm sure i will be in there for more upgrades soon anyways.

Nice. I’m about to get an appointment setup for a stage 3 as well & most likely some GPI drop ins just to be safe. What heads, springs, lifters & valves did you go with? I’ve got everything else sorted out but I’m not sure on that stuff.. I’m a total noob when it comes to anything other than bolt-ons but I’m hoping I can get a setup that I don’t have to worry about replacing too often.

[cmitchell17]

My cam has 4 degrees of overlap (@.050), the shaking and misfiring goes away once you past about 1000 rpms, so even when I raised my idle speed to around 850 or 900 rpms I still had slight stumble and surging when in gear. I feel like its worse when I try to raise the idle that high with it pushing and stuff, so I just went back to down to near stock idle speed and deal with the bucking and surging.

There are certain weather conditions were the idle will be a lot more stable almost to where it comes close to feeling stock for a few seconds.

I've tried doing a lot of things, and I've tried using a GDS scan tool (Chinese copy that never works) to play with timing and other stuff. I am also running E85 so that adds another variable.

I want to experiment more with forcing it to open loop and richening up the idle a little more to see if it helps the misfires. That is the only thing I know you can really do to try to help a big cam idle better.

[Camaro grey]

If I go with a stage 3 cam from texas speed and a 3200 stall will I need new heads to make this work so I do not bend the valves? Any info is greatly appreciated. Oh it’s going in a 2017 camaro ss 6.2L

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

My cam has 4 degrees of overlap (@.050), the shaking and misfiring goes away once you past about 1000 rpms, so even when I raised my idle speed to around 850 or 900 rpms I still had slight stumble and surging when in gear. I feel like its worse when I try to raise the idle that high with it pushing and stuff, so I just went back to down to near stock idle speed and deal with the bucking and surging.

There are certain weather conditions were the idle will be a lot more stable almost to where it comes close to feeling stock for a few seconds.

I've tried doing a lot of things, and I've tried using a GDS scan tool (Chinese copy that never works) to play with timing and other stuff. I am also running E85 so that adds another variable.

I want to experiment more with forcing it to open loop and richening up the idle a little more to see if it helps the misfires. That is the only thing I know you can really do to try to help a big cam idle better.

You say you are dealing with some bucking and surging, are you still running a stock converter? If so you might want to look into a bigger stall so that all will not be a problem anymore, instead of playing with the idle and fuel mixture. Might end up messing something up doing all that changing around.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by Camaro grey

If I go with a stage 3 cam from texas speed and a 3200 stall will I need new heads to make this work so I do not bend the valves? Any info is greatly appreciated. Oh it’s going in a 2017 camaro ss 6.2L

If you don't go with the biggest cam thy have, a stage 4 you should be alright. I run their stage 3 in my L99, 231/246@112LSA..614/641 lift. The stage 4 from what I hear you will need to flycut the valve reliefs in the piston tops. Also I ran a 3200 Precision stall for 3 years and it was not enough stall for this cam, I switched to a Circle D 5C single disc with a 4200 stall and man what a big difference it made!! She flashes up to 4800-5000 and stays there and just puls like a freight train!! The 3200 would flash to around 3600-3800 and had a dull spot until it got over 4000, then would take off, so I switched and much better. Good luck. Don't fear the stall!! Daily driveability is still nice and smooth.

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

You say you are dealing with some bucking and surging, are you still running a stock converter? If so you might want to look into a bigger stall so that all will not be a problem anymore, instead of playing with the idle and fuel mixture. Might end up messing something up doing all that changing around.

Yes that's true, i would like to get a little higher stall with the cam I have. I just don't want to go to big since the 8L90 has eight gears, it's my opinion you could go too much stall given all the gear ratios available. I think with a 4L60 and 4L80 stalls help a lot more than they hurt given that they decrease drive line efficiency, but with 8 gear ratios the higher stall isn't needed as much. It would be nice to do the math or calcs to prove this though.

I guess if you look at the stall gm put in a 4L60 vs 8L90, i think they put a looser one in a 8L90, but I think that has to do more with the fact that they knew they were going to have the one in the 8L90 and 6L80 lock in all the gears past first anyway.

Are you saying a higher stall helped you get rid of the bucking and surging feeling during a rolling idle and during a lightly breaked idle?

[TimmyM55]

Originally Posted by RideZX6R

in my experience with 5 different "big cam" vehicles.... Drivability is largely based on your TUNER and their ability, not the cam itself.
Anything anyone will sell you OTS these days will drive fine with a good tuner. Any custom spec'd cam will drive likely even better as it will be spec'd for your goals (one of which will likely be drivability with proper tuning)

But if the tune sucks, the driving will suck.


FWIW - my 1LE had a cam that was aggressive enough to need valve reliefs cut in the pistons... First tuner didn't have enough experience with GENV stuff (specific the more advanced TQ management) and the car drove... okayy. I had a more experienced shop re-tune it and not only did it pick up about 20whp, but it then drove like stock with a lumpy idle. Not exaggerating either, I could putter around a parking lot letting it idle in first with pretty much no issue. All in the tune man.

I currently am running a BTR stage 2 in an 18ss A8. I was wondering what’s considered “stock” idle. My idle is very choppy and rough, but I was told by the tuner that is normal. If it can be tuned to a near stock idle without shaking, I think it may be best to get someone else to take a look at it.

[Blackmonba6Gen]

Originally Posted by TimmyM55

I currently am running a BTR stage 2 in an 18ss A8. I was wondering what’s considered “stock” idle. My idle is very choppy and rough, but I was told by the tuner that is normal. If it can be tuned to a near stock idle without shaking, I think it may be best to get someone else to take a look at it.

This is what I would consider like a "stock" idle sound with cam setup.
https://youtu.be/csLPzspxCHk