[MrNooNoos]

Originally Posted by GAOLDGUY

Hey, I'm in the Atlanta area also so I am extremely interested in what happens to you long term. By the way, am I to assume that all these guys can tune you so you pass the emissions test we are required to take here?

https://cammotion.com/gen-5-lt-camsh...226-238-113-3/

Have a look at the cam above. This is slightly over .600 lift but I believe it is less that the maximum for the Johnson lifters. I would call Johnson to be sure but this is an alternative to the cam / lifter combination and a little milder. If you require a snotty idle, you may also want to speak to Cam Motion about the "chop" factor.

Also, have a look through this thread, "Cam upgrade quagmire". I thought there was extremely valuable info in here. Around post #23 they talk about the ls7 lifter vs. the Johnsons.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...ighlight=darth

Yes, they said afterwards I'd be "passing emissions" but I have catless headers so we will see. I have a couple of years before I need to get that checked out, 2022 for me. I have decided to go with Johnson lifters and will get that spec'd and priced for the build. I think I'm going to go with over .600 lift. I am trying to get a race cam yet maintain as much longevity as I can. Maintenance is only part of the game.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

HP is not the limiting factor for lifters it's cam lobe intensity, spring rates, and rpm. Often times NA cams have more aggressive lobe profiles then Supercharged stuff and rev higher. Ask the shop if they are going to put 50k miles on their shop ZL1? Sure it might be making that power and handling it now, but most Shop builds are not built with longevity in mind.

Imo the build you have listed above is a combination that will likely need maintenance in 20-30k miles at best. If you are just going to get the car out on weekends to rip on it and it likely will not see 30k miles over the next 4-5yrs then you are fine. If it's a daily that will see lots of miles (I would want to see the cam card), but I would choose a cam that is .600 lift or less and works with beehive springs. Cam motion would be my choice.

1 7/8 headers are fine...2" will make a little more power but it's not a big deal.

I see the 20-30k maintenance number a lot. I assume they should be checked before that with complete spring failure potentially $$$$$$

What mileage do y’all check them? What specifics do you look for? And do you utilize a spring pressure tester/which one?

[MrNooNoos]

Originally Posted by MeanGreen1LE

I see the 20-30k maintenance number a lot. I assume they should be checked before that with complete spring failure potentially $$$$$$

What mileage do y’all check them? What specifics do you look for? And do you utilize a spring pressure tester/which one?

+1 on the questions

I do plan on learning on how to do installs myself, but I was planning on getting this done by a shop and then learn the maintenance. Anything helps.

[JCunningham]

on the trunions get the bushing set not the needle bearing ones. you will need to run oil with a higher level of ZDDP. Amsoil Z rod 10w30 or Driven LS30. Get long tube headers w cats. catless stink and you only gain about 2hp with out. if you can afford Johnson lifters get them. the LS7 lifters do get a bad rep because of all the failures on cammed motors but probably 90% of cammed cars run them.

[MrNoosNoos]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

on the trunions get the bushing set not the needle bearing ones. you will need to run oil with a higher level of ZDDP. Amsoil Z rod 10w30 or Driven LS30. Get long tube headers w cats. catless stink and you only gain about 2hp with out. if you can afford Johnson lifters get them. the LS7 lifters do get a bad rep because of all the failures on cammed motors but probably 90% of cammed cars run them.

Thanks for the new oil numbers, are there any other things a cammed car is going to need for maintenance? I am also going to add in a ATI pulley since its already all out. I think the trunnions are CHE brand.

https://www.rdpstore.com/p-9875-2016...er-918857.aspx

[JCunningham]

CHE is top notch. just the oil and valve springs will have to be changed between 15,000 20,000 miles.

[MrNoosNoos]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

CHE is top notch. just the oil and valve springs will have to be changed between 15,000 20,000 miles.

TI springs and TI retainers work? https://www.phastekperformance.com/L...l230075897.htm

Changing springs etc 15,20,30k miles and the < .600 lift cam should run nicely?

[JCunningham]

ya they will work fine. the mileage depends how you drive it. the harder you drive it the quicker they will wear out. you definitely want to check them around 15,000 or just replace them. Like for me 15,000 takes me 4 years to put on. i would just replace them over the winter. I had a cammed LS3. haven't cammed my 17 LT1. Dont know if im going to bother as im happy with the power it has now with my mods.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by MeanGreen1LE

I see the 20-30k maintenance number a lot. I assume they should be checked before that with complete spring failure potentially $$$$$$

What mileage do y’all check them? What specifics do you look for? And do you utilize a spring pressure tester/which one?

I always checked the springs around 10-15k miles on previous cars I owned that had aftermarket cams. My 4th gen had a fairly "low lift" cam at around .580 lift with a mild XE lobe. the PAC dual .650 lift springs I used were still in spec after 4yrs and 15k miles.

[GAOLDGUY]

What was the outcome of this build?
How did it work out with Fastlane Performance?
Did you use the Johnson lifters?
What cam did you use?
How does the car run now?

[MuscleCarMike]

Port and Polish is definitely old school and definitely legit.