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Old 02-12-2021, 11:33 AM   #71
kropscamaro16


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC113 View Post
That's a good deal, I wished I lived near you! I'd much rather pay a few hundred to get this done but with some quotes over $1k figure it's a DIY project for sure.

I plan on getting my 1LE kit in by AutoX season, recently got the eLSD AutoX flash, I figure the solid bushings + eLSD tune ought to be a lot of fun. Still undecided on wheels/tires, tbh seems like a ton of cash for a 315/18 square setup and I should just stick to using OEM... I'm just not that competitive, lol.

its my buddy shop so hes giving me a break on labor since i always go there he said they never done one before so it may take less but at $100 an hour for labor still could be around $1000 installed or so
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Old 02-20-2021, 09:15 AM   #72
20Bluezl1
 
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So I just realized I screwed up didn't follow the instructions step up step and ****ed up.

The instructions say that the front bushing you need to press the top bushing first and the rear you need to press the lower first.

I did all 4 lower bushing first is this going to be an issue? 🤨
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Old 02-20-2021, 05:02 PM   #73
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I realize @ JCunningham gave you his thoughts on the other thread too, and you may have moved on. FWIW, I think I did all the tops first, if my mind serves me right? Either way I think you'll be just fine. For some more discussion and views on this, check this thread out....
Start on page-12, post #164
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...ushing&page=12
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Old 02-20-2021, 06:11 PM   #74
h018871
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The instructions that came with mine, attached pdf pages 11&12, say both are to have the lower installed first. This matches the way the rubber bushings are installed.
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File Type: pdf GM solid cradle bushing kit 84341929.pdf (12.36 MB, 22 views)
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Old 02-20-2021, 10:07 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h018871 View Post
The instructions that came with mine, attached pdf pages 11&12, say both are to have the lower installed first. This matches the way the rubber bushings are installed.
Yup! I obviously didn't remember correctly. I just went and looked at mine on the car, and also went and pulled out my instructions as well. They also mirror yours. I must of followed the instructions. I certainly knew I made sure all were seated starting from the same direction. My bottoms are flush, and the top bushing is out of the cradle aprox 1/16".
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Old 03-28-2021, 09:30 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driven2exceSS View Post
Yup! I obviously didn't remember correctly. I just went and looked at mine on the car, and also went and pulled out my instructions as well. They also mirror yours. I must of followed the instructions. I certainly knew I made sure all were seated starting from the same direction. My bottoms are flush, and the top bushing is out of the cradle aprox 1/16".
After installing these, I think this is one part of the instructions I don't agree with.

The rear bushings are slightly too thick to seat all the way in the cradle, so it looks like either you'll need to shave a bit of material off the middle of one or both (~1/16" total) or live with it. I had already pressed them in, and I'm glad I decided to install the top ones 1st, but I guess it's hard to say if this results in the cradle ending up in the original position or if the following the instructions would have been better. Front ones are all-in, both top and bottom.

As far as time, I'd give it 5 hours if you aren't familiar with the job, but think it's possible to get it done in 3 hours if you're more experienced and have the tools. Not a great job for a beginner...

These bushings take some force to press in, freezing them seems to help. I also used loctite to make sure there won't be any creaking, but not sure it's going to matter.

Results are interesting... not much increase in nvh under most conditions, you may not notice much on a smooth road surface, but you can FEEL the texture of the road a lot more and surface imperfections are transmitted to the driver's butt more clearly. I have not had a chance to drive it that much yet but I feel like this is a good mod for anyone with a 1LE for sure, but it does make the car slightly less isolated.
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Old 03-29-2021, 09:39 AM   #77
h018871
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Dave, I'm thinking out loud here, this is a visualizing thought experiment

The vehicle weight is not on the cradle, it is transmitted from the tires to the lower control arms through the springs and to the body. The cradle is pushed down by the springs through the pivot of the arms on the cradle.....rotates around the tire contact point.
I don't think it makes any real difference if the tops or bottoms are pushed in first, it is most likely more important that they are all done the same. At most it will change the ride height by approx 1/16"
I doubt that there is enough force from driving to move the aluminum pucks once pressed into the cradle

I agree with your assessment of NVH changes
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Old 03-29-2021, 10:09 AM   #78
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I would have liked to measure the result just for my own OCD, but at this point I'd have to compare a stock vehicle to mine.

If you follow the directions and the rear of the cradle ends up being 1/16" or so further away from the body, or if you do it backwards like me and it ends up 1/16" closer, I don't think it's going to matter.

IMO, this should be part of all 1LE option packages, it doesn't add so much NVH that someone who opts for the 1LE package would think it's too much.

I got this, the GMPP eLSD autox tune and cf brake lines + brembo fluid for the upcoming autox season. The eLSD tune bumped me from stock class but I think it'll be worth it.
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Old 03-29-2021, 10:39 AM   #79
20Bluezl1
 
Drives: 2020 Zl1 A10 Riverside Blue
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Just took out my Zl1 1st time after the GMPP bushing and full rear SPL Parts and it feels amazing. I have to get used to it a little snice it feels like it has more responsiveness then stock, but I don't feel to much NVH that I would not recommend doing them.
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Old 03-29-2021, 11:49 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
Just took out my Zl1 1st time after the GMPP bushing and full rear SPL Parts and it feels amazing. I have to get used to it a little snice it feels like it has more responsiveness then stock, but I don't feel to much NVH that I would not recommend doing them.
I have a similar setup as you, though I opted for the BMR cradle lockout bushings instead of hard cradle bushings. BMR control arms, trailing arms, toe rods, mid-chassis brace, cradle brace, and strut tower brace.

The car is much stiffer overall, and much sharper in left-to-right transitions, as the rear is not loosey-goosey from flimsy control arms and squishy bushings. It's pretty amazing that GM thought these stamped steel control arms would work right.

I'm interested to get your feedback on your setup.
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Old 03-29-2021, 12:18 PM   #81
20Bluezl1
 
Drives: 2020 Zl1 A10 Riverside Blue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark R View Post
I have a similar setup as you, though I opted for the BMR cradle lockout bushings instead of hard cradle bushings. BMR control arms, trailing arms, toe rods, mid-chassis brace, cradle brace, and strut tower brace.

The car is much stiffer overall, and much sharper in left-to-right transitions, as the rear is not loosey-goosey from flimsy control arms and squishy bushings. It's pretty amazing that GM thought these stamped steel control arms would work right.

I'm interested to get your feedback on your setup.
As of now I love it and also my alignment guy. I have a track day April 28 so I will put them to the test and see.
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