[Badmojo]

I've installed these on two cars and love them. No pumps or special tools are required for one man brake fluid changes.

[N Camarolina]

Thanks for your suggestion. To each their own. I'm concerned about the safety of brake system should the one way valve ever fail while my car is being driven on the track.

Using a pressurized dry tank hooked up to the brake fluid resevoir is only minimally inconvenient and allows for an easy one man brake job using the OEM bleeder valves on the Brembos.

[Msquared]

The Speed Bleeders are not relying on the check valve to keep them sealed once you tighten them back down. Instead, the tapered end of the bleeder screw seals against the tapered seat in the caliper body, just like with the stock bleeder. In fact, the stock bleeder is functionally just like the Speed Bleeder except with no valve - just a straight-through hole! So if you don't trust the Speed Bleeder to seal, then you don't trust the stock bleeder either. The only thing the one-way check valve has to seal is the low-pressure ambient air, to keep it from entering the caliper when the pedal is returning upward from a pressure stroke.

My only question in the past has been if the Speed Bleeders might allow some air to seep in through the threads when the pedal is returning upward. Once you loosen the bleeder so that the taper isn't sealing, regular threads wouldn't completely seal out air. However, I was looking on their site and the thread sealant the bleeders come with is said to keep the threads sealed against air infiltration. At some point, it will wear off if you bleed frequently, but they sell a bottle of the sealer so you can reapply it. Makes sense to me.

I still will use my Motive just because I have it and it eliminates any worry about running the master cylinder dry. But the Speed Bleeders would be an interesting alternative.

[Vtor_ZL1]

The valve is only active when bleeding, otherwise its closed just like solid bleeder.


There is another version that was made to get around patent w ball / spring at end, but same principle. If bleeder is TIGHT, there is NO FLOW - much like ALL bleeders.


MS Paint illustration for LOLz

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

The valve is only active when bleeding, otherwise its closed just like solid bleeder.

Point of order: you and I agree on the main point, but there's no such thing as a solid bleeder. A standard bleeder is just like the Speed Bleeder, but without the ball and spring in the orifice. But it still has the orifice.

[20Bluezl1]

I use my Motive bleeder and have no issues with bleeding. Now I due have to say snice there Stainless it might be a good idea to replace snice they should be stronger. Pretty expensive at $15 a pop. As Msquared said it's a good thing they sell the sealant snice I do bleed alot. Might not be a bad idea also to use it on the stock bleeder.

[Vtor_ZL1]

Originally Posted by Msquared

Point of order: you and I agree on the main point, but there's no such thing as a solid bleeder. A standard bleeder is just like the Speed Bleeder, but without the ball and spring in the orifice. But it still has the orifice.

All bleeders have an orifice - requires for them to be a bleeder and not solid bolt.


Speed bleeder include check valve of sorts to prevent air from going back in when you lift off the brake pedal. Thread sealant is there to prevent air from sneaking by.


Not sure where your hang up is but these things have been around for 25+ years.

[olblue75]

What size is the Brembo calipers?

[Badmojo]

Part Number for a 2018 Camaro ZL1 1LE with Brembo Brakes (same for all GM cars with the same Brembo Calipers: Corvette, Cadillac CTS-V) SB1010S-SS

[Badmojo]

I went with Speed Bleeders after I had a factory bleeder shear off and I couldn't extract it. The stainless steel Speed Bleeders will be more durable and less likely to break off. They do not have a relief area at the top of the thread and the hex area is beefier. If you are using factory bleeders and using the old fashion method, then I would replace the bleeders occasionally. If they snap off, they are nearly impossible to extract from the aluminum caliper. Don't make my mistake and try to extract them on the car. Pull the caliper and take it to a machine shop.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Badmojo

I went with Speed Bleeders after I had a factory bleeder shear off and I couldn't extract it. The stainless steel Speed Bleeders will be more durable and less likely to break off. They do not have a relief area at the top of the thread and the hex area is beefier. If you are using factory bleeders and using the old fashion method, then I would replace the bleeders occasionally. If they snap off, they are nearly impossible to extract from the aluminum caliper. Don't make my mistake and try to extract them on the car. Pull the caliper and take it to a machine shop.

I've had success extracting broken bleeders. Use a sharp 17/64" drill but and only drill a short amount. And getting it centered is very important too. If we drill to deep or offset just a little then we risk harming the caliper itself. I then take a can of electronics aerosol duster and turn it upside down so it is super cold air coming out. You can also buy the aerosol cans that are designed to expel cold air. I will chill the broken bleeder to contract it and help it break free. I then gently tap in an easy out like the type pictured below. Proto #9524. Grab a small adjustable wrench and gently turn to remove.

[cvp33]

Russell’s 639630 should fit as well. The best deal I could find was CarID on Ebay.

[20Bluezl1]

Are these. Speed bleeders sold individually or come In a pack?

[Vtor_ZL1]

I *know* I have bunch of them, but no IDEA if i bought them individually or in sets.


Was def handy tool when help was scarce! Most likely sold by each.