[unavailablezl1]

If you get the ZL1 Addon product. These are the ones I got.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by TDS

Yes buy them. Do not them jack it up anywhere beside the pinch weld. DO NOT jack up on the aluminum behind the front tire, It can tweak the front suspension cradle.

What do you base this opinion on? Can you provide any references?

I use the reinforced corner chassis points behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels all the time without any "tweaking". If I'm working in my driveway I often lift them one at a time. When I go to the self-help auto shop for oil changes, under-car safety inspections, etc. I lift on these same points all at the same time on their 2-post lifts. So does the dealer when they work on tires & suspension. To switch out rear wheels at the drag strip I put my racing jack under the differential.

--Cal

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

Originally Posted by cwebster

What do you base this opinion on? Can you provide any references?

I use the reinforced corner chassis points behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels all the time without any "tweaking". If I'm working in my driveway I often lift them one at a time. When I go to the self-help auto shop for oil changes, under-car safety inspections, etc. I lift on these same points all at the same time on their 2-post lifts. So does the dealer when they work on tires & suspension. To switch out rear wheels at the drag strip I put my racing jack under the differential.

--Cal

Cal,

If you regularly use a jack, one lift point at a time on those front pieces that unavailablezl1 showed, you could very easily cause damage. I've seen them bent in at dealerships a few times. It's not worth the risk.

The rear differential is safe. And the re-enforced corner chassis points are safe when lifting with a 4 point lift due to the equal lifting force. I would not put a jack under that, especially with regularity. If you had taken before and after pictures of showroom new and now you'd probably see slight concavity starting.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Mr. Wyndham

a jack, yes, I suppose.

But a 2-post lift a a dealer like the OP mentioned? There are other options. The pinch weld is not the only place to lift the vehicle.

Great photo. I do my lifting exactly on those points where the pads are located in your photo. Certainly NOT on the panel adjacent to it with the holes punched in it, as someone else was saying they'd done.

--Cal

[Turbo_J89]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

they are nice but not completely necessary on a 6th gen. 5th gen absolutely as there are few places to jack without using a pinch weld. On a 6th gen there is an easy access point behind the front tire with a body bushing present there which appears reinforced.

I jacked up my 5th gen with a floor jack probably 15 times without ZL1 Add-ons Jack Pads and there were easy points in front and back that didn't require jacking from the pinch welds.

The 6th gen i've jacked up with a floor jack 1 time and after inspecting i have no idea how you could do that without damaging the body of the car. Everything under there is so fragile. I use 6 ZL1 Add-ons Jack Pads to lift my 6th gen 1LE. 4 at the jack stand points and 2 at the floor jack points. Works great. I'd recommend picking up a set. I was able to lift the car with zero damage and didn't need to cut a hockey puck or any of that other creative stuff to make it work. It's pretty easy using the side jack points because it lifted the front and back of the car at the same time and slid under some jack stands and lowered it. I didn't jack from the rear diff and have no plans to. Don't want to risk damaging the cover.

[Stress]

Originally Posted by dw760

I bought these on Amazon for about $10 each, and added my own pucks I had left over from my 03 Z06.

They work perfect, clear everything and hang down enough to clear the plastic body panels.

I tried the name brand bolt on set, and also made my own, but the above combo is stellar.

These do have two small magnets, pressed into the nylon.

This makes is a total breeze now

Nice!! Thank you for posting this dw760. I am going to copy this set up.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by dw760

I bought these on Amazon for about $10 each, and added my own pucks I had left over from my 03 Z06.

They work perfect, clear everything and hang down enough to clear the plastic body panels.

I tried the name brand bolt on set, and also made my own, but the above combo is stellar.

These do have two small magnets, pressed into the nylon.

This makes is a total breeze now

Those look perfect for driveway maintenance. I don't think I'd want to leave them on all the time, though. Can you provide links for what you used to put these together?

--Cal

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by TDS

The piece with the circle in it, between the dirty ass side skirt and the header

That's definitely the wrong place to lift. Those are simple body panels with cutouts to safe weight. They will definitely crush easily under the weight of the car. Take a look at the photo Mr. Wyndham posted in Post #10. You'll want to position your lift or racing jack on the reinforced structural beams in those corners. The pinch welds are fine too if used at the designated points and with appropriate adapter pads.

--Cal

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Can'tHave2MuchHP

Cal,

If you regularly use a jack, one lift point at a time on those front pieces that unavailablezl1 showed, you could very easily cause damage. I've seen them bent in at dealerships a few times. It's not worth the risk.

The rear differential is safe. And the re-enforced corner chassis points are safe when lifting with a 4 point lift due to the equal lifting force. I would not put a jack under that, especially with regularity. If you had taken before and after pictures of showroom new and now you'd probably see slight concavity starting.

I agree that it would be easy to screw this up if someone weren't watching where they place the pads.

I wouldn't say I use my racing jack regularly but I have used it in the driveway to pull wheels off for inspection/cleaning one at a time. I do a detailed safety inspection before every race weekend and I haven't seen any deformation like you've described. I will look more closely this week when I have it up on the lift again, though. I'll have to use the drive-on lift to know for sure since the 2-post lifts use the points I'm trying to inspect. One difference might be that I always position the jack/lift pads immediately behind the rockers either centered on the bolt (front) or just behind and touching it, centered on the beam. The pads for the rear are always positioned centered on the beam as close to the nearest connecing member as possible.

--Cal

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by cwebster

That's definitely the wrong place to lift. Those are simple body panels with cutouts to safe weight. They will definitely crush easily under the weight of the car. Take a look at the photo Mr. Wyndham posted in Post #10. You'll want to position your lift or racing jack on the reinforced structural beams in those corners. The pinch welds are fine too if used at the designated points and with appropriate adapter pads.

--Cal

Aren't these spots the factory lift points (paint is marred by the factory frame carriers)?

Are they not usable after the factory marriage due to the extra weight of the chassis/drivetrain?

Just curious. I have and use ZL1 Addons lift points on the pinch welds...

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

Aren't these spots the factory lift points (paint is marred by the factory frame carriers)?

Are they not usable after the factory marriage due to the extra weight of the chassis/drivetrain?

Just curious. I have and use ZL1 Addons lift points on the pinch welds...

I don't know. Someone who works at an assembly plant might be able to answer that one. It could very well be that this is where the unadorned chassis rests on a transport dolly before heavier components are added. It certainly won't support the weight of a fully assembled vehicle.

--Cal

[Stephen12ZL1]

Mr. Wyndam and unavailableZL1 have provided a nice floor jack point. If you center the jack below the bushing/bolt position, it is fine. If you are slipshod and place the jack sideways or on the cheesy aluminum brace (yes, it is aluminum in places under there) I can’t help you. This is automotive 101 and a solid bushing point will not tweak anything. The ZL1 add on pieces are nice but not completely necessary...once again.

[dw760]

Originally Posted by Stress

Nice!! Thank you for posting this dw760. I am going to copy this set up.

Hey Cal & Stress

Here's the link, they go up and down a bit in price but still a deal. Perfect diameter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SQRYB3...v_ov_lig_dp_it

As far as the pucks, let me take a look at mine and get back to you here

>>> Boom ! I found them in my orders in 2014 !

https://www.amazon.com/Corvette-Jack...cm_wl_huc_item

All you do is remove the eye bolts & T nuts, then carefully epoxy to the jack pads. I used my black silicone seal, put a little weight on them all night .... Done !

Trust me this is a nice set up, I tried a few on my 17 1LE and was never happy.

Just keep in mind if your using a floor jack to be on flat smooth cement. Then have the jack wheels lined up so the jack can roll smoothly when jacking up the car. And of course a low profile jack may be needed.

Cheers Dale

[nicktechla]

So has anyone put these on without lifting their car?