[m6-lt1]

I have been through 4 sets of rotors in the past year. None of the sets made it past 1200 miles before I would get vibration in the steering again while braking. Most sets didn’t even make it to 1000 miles. No hard driving was done on any of the sets aside from bedding them in. If anything I may have been too easy on them.

Before anyone comments saying rotors don’t warp and it’s uneven pad deposits, I understand that. I’m not here to debate that. What I’m trying to figure out is WHY this keeps happening. I have a rotor hone but I do not want to waste time using it if it’s just going to come back. I am convinced at this point that I have a sticky caliper piston but the dealer either doesn’t want to warranty it, or they are too dumb to realize it’s sticking.

Can someone PLEASE tell me how I can prove i have a front caliper piston sticking before I sell the car? I refuse to pay for another set of rotors and throw calipers at it without finding and showing proof. I love the car but I am getting absolutely fed up with this ****.

[laynlo15]

Have you jacked the car up on that side? Then tried to rotate the tire? When your driving it do you get an obvious pull when you apply the brakes? Are you smelling anything when after you come to a stop?

[m6-lt1]

Before anyone suggests re-bedding the brakes I just tried it and it made it worse. In fact the other sets got worse too. Re-bedding imo always makes it worse.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Have you jacked the car up on that side? Then tried to rotate the tire? When your driving it do you get an obvious pull when you apply the brakes? Are you smelling anything when after you come to a stop?

It seems to rotate fine, no obvious smells except for today when I tried rebedding I think one side did have more of a smell than the other. No pulling to a side when braking. Also wheels are properly torqued.

[ctrlz]

I went through 2 sets of front rotors due to bad vibration. This is with pretty mild daily driving. I personally think the stock semi-metallic pads are hard on the rotors. Switching to ceramic pads made a huge improvement with only a barely perceivable change in braking power. i don't doubt the stock pads are superior for track use.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

I went through 2 sets of front rotors due to bad vibration. This is with pretty mild daily driving. I personally think the stock semi-metallic pads are hard on the rotors. Switching to ceramic pads made a huge improvement with only a barely perceivable change in braking power. i don't doubt the stock pads are superior for track use.

Unfortunately I can’t make that switch because I plan to track the car. I missed the entire season last year due to this issue. Now it’s back again right before the season starts. I didn’t track on any of the 4 sets I mentioned as the vibrations kept coming back before I would sign up for a session.

I was also thinking the stock pad material just doesn’t mesh well with daily driving but idk. Most people don’t seem to have issues. Also I truly believe my issue is a stuck piston.

[brushmore]

Maybe try an infrared thermometer right after a drive to see if you notice a difference on the rotors from side to side?

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by brushmore

Maybe try an infrared thermometer right after a drive to see if you notice a difference on the rotors from side to side?

I actually did that today after rebedding them. I had done this last summer and fall as well. This time (I can’t say for sure because depending on what part of the rotor I place the temp gun the temp is different) there was roughly a 50 degree difference with passenger side being the hot side. When I did it in the past it was only 20 degrees but I haven’t done it after rebedding in the past like I did today. In the past I attributed the temp difference to the sun being on that side of the car. There was zero sun light today.

I also jacked the front up again. It did seem like the passenger side was harder to rotate than the drivers side. It wasn’t much harder but I think it’s because only 1 piston out of 4 is hung up. I might try the dealer one more time, see if I can go for a ride with a tech, bed the brakes, pull over and show them the temp difference and see what they say.

I doubt they’ll say it’s stuck just from that as that would mean they are admitting to their mistake when they said it wasn’t sticking last time.

[shoe5163]

Same issue 4 sets of front rotors Chevy dealer kept telling me they where warped. I bought 2 new orange 50 calpers, 2 GM heavy duty rotors the ones with the s grooves an Akebono pads. About $750-800 for all. 500 miles so far and no issues yet, smooth as silk braking. Dealer kept saying calipers were okay.
Akebono ASP1474 Performance Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Kit
ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Disc Brake Calipers 84089038
ACDelco Specialty Performance Brake Rotors 19383609

Good reads:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...hlight=akebono
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...hlight=akebono
They also sell caliper rebuild kits.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by shoe5163

Same issue 4 sets of front rotors Chevy dealer kept telling me they where warped. I bought 2 new orange 50 calpers, 2 GM heavy duty rotors the ones with the s grooves an Akebono pads. About $750-800 for all. 500 miles so far and no issues yet, smooth as silk braking. Dealer kept saying calipers were okay.
Akebono ASP1474 Performance Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Kit
ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Disc Brake Calipers 84089038
ACDelco Specialty Performance Brake Rotors 19383609

Good reads:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...hlight=akebono
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...hlight=akebono
They also sell caliper rebuild kits.

Thanks. Seems like they are too dumb to figure out caliper issues and just by default tell us it’s rotors. My theory is this:

If it’s the caliper, then that means they have to warranty it (if the car is under warranty). That means they will get paid less than what they will when they over charge us for the parts versus when we buy the exact same part number ourselves. Dealers make a ton on parts. They charge $300 for the pad kit when the same exact one is 170 from rock auto, and they charge 140 per rotor versus the $80 rock auto chargers.

I’m debating taking the car in one more time. I’m going to record video of myself taking the rotor temp and show them. I also noticed my car was pulling when not braking. I thought I was just due for an alignment but maybe it’s the stuck caliper piston? Plus it does seem like the hotter side is harder to turn by hand than the cooler side when I jack the vehicle up after testing it out again 2 hours ago.

[ember1205]

I like the idea of the infrared thermometer. Check various areas on the rotor as well as the caliper itself - if you have a pad that's dragging because the caliper is sticking, I would expect all affected pieces to carry extra heat.

Drive and brake hard, repeatedly, then immediately check the temps after a number of runs (like bedding the brakes). Then repeat and drive the car while minimizing brake use to allow them to cool. Pull over and check again. If you have a caliper sticking, it's possible that the brake will continue to drag on that side and there would be an even bigger temp difference.

Call GM if you feel it's a warranty issue and get them involved. Be sure to cite all costs you have already incurred from this (if any) through the dealer and ask them for their suggestion on how to proceed. Ask if you should have an independent brake shop check the caliper - if they say yes, ask who's going to pay for it.

It's a giant game that one has to play now to get manufacturers to actually honor their warranties, unfortunately.

[snicko]

I mean honestly it does suck that the dealer’s unwilling to toss some parts at it to see if the problem (you) goes away (looking at it from their perspective).

But the other thing here is - what is it that you’re trying to solve - is it a sticky brake caliper or is it your inability to go to the track? It certainly sounds like this is causing you a lot of angst and impacting your ability to do something fun (track days). Have you considered just replacing the caliper and if that fixes it, call it solved and move on with life? Would be a cheap price to pay for your happiness and ability to enjoy the car…

Just my $0.02

[jamala00]

Originally Posted by snicko

I mean honestly it does suck that the dealer’s unwilling to toss some parts at it to see if the problem (you) goes away (looking at it from their perspective).

But the other thing here is - what is it that you’re trying to solve - is it a sticky brake caliper or is it your inability to go to the track? It certainly sounds like this is causing you a lot of angst and impacting your ability to do something fun (track days). Have you considered just replacing the caliper and if that fixes it, call it solved and move on with life? Would be a cheap price to pay for your happiness and ability to enjoy the car…

Just my $0.02

I was just reading through this tread and thought the exact same thing. A new caliper is not that expensive. Seems the OP already said he missed the entire last year at the track because of this issue. Seems like a very simple and not very expensive test to me... Like you said... Just my $.02

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by jamala00

I was just reading through this tread and thought the exact same thing. A new caliper is not that expensive. Seems the OP already said he missed the entire last year at the track because of this issue. Seems like a very simple and not very expensive test to me... Like you said... Just my $.02

Same here, I just wouldn’t have the patience to work within the confines of typical dealer BS. I’d just want it fixed and move on.