[Cswan11]

I have 2018 SS 1le. I’m wanting to get the Texas speed stage 2 cam kit. I’m still new in the car engine side of things and unsure what fuel lobe to get (0,10,32)

Also what rod length.

I am stock at the moment but eventually want a supercharger, would a 32 hurt me being a stock set up? I know I need it for the super. I would like to avoid buying a different cam later on.

Has anyone used the Katech AFM valley delete?

Thanks in advance.

[Joshinator99]

Definitely want the +32 fuel lobe regardless.

Get good quality lifters (Johnson is great), and measure for pushrod length during engine reassembly. Lot of threads on this topic as of late with some really good posts by oldman and KingLT1.

If you’re doing a supercharger down the road, then I’d get a cam that works with it. An NA cam is a different animal than one for say, a PD blower. NA cams typically have a bunch of overlap, not ideal for a supercharger. I’m sure it would work, but I’d prefer leaving a bit of NA power on the table instead of having to change the cam again.

I am running both the Katech AFM valley delete cover and the Katech VVT delete front timing cover. Nice pieces.

[Cswan11]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Definitely want the +32 fuel lobe regardless.

Get good quality lifters (Johnson is great), and measure for pushrod length during engine reassembly. Lot of threads on this topic as of late with some really good posts by oldman and KingLT1.

If you’re doing a supercharger down the road, then I’d get a cam that works with it. An NA cam is a different animal than one for say, a PD blower. NA cams typically have a bunch of overlap, not ideal for a supercharger. I’m sure it would work, but I’d prefer leaving a bit of NA power on the table instead of having to change the cam again.

I am running both the Katech AFM valley delete cover and the Katech VVT delete front timing cover. Nice pieces.

Thank you! I wanna build it the right way the first time or at least the best I can.

[JROC]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

If you’re doing a supercharger down the road, then I’d get a cam that works with it. An NA cam is a different animal than one for say, a PD blower. NA cams typically have a bunch of overlap, not ideal for a supercharger. I’m sure it would work, but I’d prefer leaving a bit of NA power on the table instead of having to change the cam again.

This. I've known people with modern built blower motor with custom blower cams who's cam/cams barely produced a more noticeable lope than factory. A little bit, but not really all that much, but they put down some impressive #'s.

I knew a guy who owned a performance shop back in like 07/08/09 with an 03/04 Cobra (can't remember which year, but a screaming yellow car) with a 5L Teksid build. He had the heads ported and custom ground cams, running a GEN1 Whipple 2.3L making 735 WHP on 93. That was a lot back then. Before that he broke the 600 WHP mark with a stock bottomend, and a Steggy ported M112 with the same H/C's. This was also on pump. The point I'm getting at is he was making some very impressive # for the late 2,000's, and he contributed it greatly to his H/C setup, but the cam lope was barely more noticeable than factory. I once asked him why he used cams that didn't lope any more aggressively like a cammed LS car, and he started explaining that you want the valves to open differently for N/A and boosted cars, etc, and that you should spec your cams based on your setup. I've known people with built LS motors running a large shot who's motors weren't cammed overall aggressively. They would say they built the motor to survive a shot, and not necessarily make the most N/A HP.

If you think you're going to SC soon they you should spec your cam to work well with any particular SC you plan to use. A custom ground cam from a reputable source spec'd to your setup is usually better (but not necessarily always if you're doing a common build) than an off the shelf cam.